Carrier bearing spun on carrier hub question

[Tom Elliott]

I have noticed one of the carrier bearings has spun on the carrier hub and worn into the carrier. I know there are shims to hold the bearing out in its proper place but how do I determine how much? I see that the shims are .005 thick but I don't know how many to use. I hope there is a way without pressing the bearing on and off. Thanks, Tom

[Mitch//pa]

there should still be an unworn area on the carrier with the original thickness. lathe off the unworn area and measure how much was removed. then use that amount of shims to bring it back to the original spec. i then knurle the carrier and green loktite the new bearing on..
hope this makes sense
modern ford 8.8 pinion shims also work

[Joe K]

What Mitch//pa says is correct - a little difficult to determine accurately - but it may not matter.

The next step is the important one. You need a certain preload on the bearings which is determined by using Tom Endy's "preload tool" as explained at http://www.santaanitaas.org/wp-conte...r-Apr-2003.pdf

With an unworn carrier you adjust only gaskets between the trumpets to adjust this preload. With a worn carrier you adjust both gaskets AND spacers. MOre to play with to achieve the necessary preload.

Once you have the necessary spacers/gaskets figured out, you can change their relative positions in the assembly without changing the preload to vary where the ring gear and pinion meet for best contact. This is the NEXT step in rebuilding the differential.

Read Tom's three or four instruction bulletins. BEST possible information source.

http://www.santaanitaas.org/technica...tech-articles/

(Much better than Rick Freeman's Model A Book that I used in the late 1970 - and from which I used a string and a weight to determine preload torque. )

And yes, you may end up taking pressed on bearing "on and off" the carrier to make adjustment. Get a Harbor Freight bearing pull setup or a "loaner" from AutoZone. (we discussed this on a different thread I think.)

Life of a mechanic. One simply CAN'T have too many tools.

Joe K

[Mitch//pa]

our lathe has a built in digital micrometer that measures exactly how much was taken off so it's very accurate for the amount of shims needed

[Joe K]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

our lathe has a built in digital micrometer that measures exactly how much was taken off so it's very accurate for the amount of shims needed

Not doubting the lathe or the machinist. More the indication.

After things wallow around a bit, determining the start point for machining could be challenging.

But as I say, it may not matter as one is setting up the carrier position FROM SCRATCH, and with full range of lateral adjustment.

Gosh. Digital. My 1860ish Shepard, Lathe & Co. lathe would turn green with envy. Maybe it already has?



Joe K

[Tom Elliott]

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Great suggestion's, will be able to handle it now. I have been reading Tom Endy's article's on rearend rebuilding. Just great

[Tom Elliott]

I was able to dial indicate the wear by the difference between what's left of the original surface and the worn area. Right at .005 Now for the knurling and locktite.

[Mitch//pa]

Great

[Joe K]

Originally Posted by Tom Elliott

I was able to dial indicate the wear by the difference between what's left of the original surface and the worn area. Right at .005 Now for the knurling and locktite.

Great! So maybe one shim behind the bearing? You still have to do the exercise of matching the two trumpets together to get the pre-load. And then match the ring gear to the pinion as exercise part deux.

Don't be afraid to make a special trumpet to punkin gasket out of like 11x17 computer paper. Or likewise make the gaskets in thick manila folder material. Or maybe forgo the gasket and put down a layer of paint. You have to be creative to get that all important "touch" on the pinion.

I was fortunate on mine - but mine hadn't suffered any damage. I think I ended up with bond paper on one side and the standard gasket from the kit on the other. (whatever that was, think 0.010.) I see Snyders has 0.006 and 0.010 size now.

Good luck with this. Gotta love Loctite.

Joe K

[Mitch//pa]

the "BEST" brand gasket set is the best and gives you the selection needed

[tbirdtbird]

need an inch pound torque wrench? who uses inch pounds all day long?? Bicycle shops

i knew a guy who set up a later model rear end pinion preload at 20 ft-lbs. The rear end exploded at 400 miles

hmm....reading comprehension, anyone...

[Joe K]

need an inch pound torque wrench? who uses inch pounds all day long?? Bicycle shops

The original Rick Freeman "Model A Shop Manual" recommended a weight on a string. I forget the actual weight used.



Joe K

[Mitch//pa]

i can do the rear by feel and get it dead on....

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Mitch//pa

i can do the rear by feel and get it dead on....

That's how I do it also.

[tbirdtbird]

is that Rick the same as hardtimes?

[Joe K]

Originally Posted by tbirdtbird

is that Rick the same as hardtimes?

Maybe Rick Ross - at least that's what comes up when you google Rick and Hardtimes together.

Rick Freeman's book was good for it's time. But with the Internet its like having instruction for most ANYTHING you need to do.

My daughter's 98 Accord is having issues with the seat restraint system (SRS) and even the dealer is having problems keeping the light off. There is a lot on Youtube about diagnosing the issue and solving the problem.

We'll be seeing how that goes in the spring after the snow is gone.

Joe K

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by Joe K

Maybe Rick Ross - at least that's what comes up when you google Rick and Hardtimes together.

Rick Freeman's book was good for it's time. But with the Internet its like having instruction for most ANYTHING you need to do.

My daughter's 98 Accord is having issues with the seat restraint system (SRS) and even the dealer is having problems keeping the light off. There is a lot on Youtube about diagnosing the issue and solving the problem.

We'll be seeing how that goes in the spring after the snow is gone.

Joe K

what code do you have????

[Joe K]

what code do you have????

We're thinking that a steering column disassembly by the dealership to replace the ignition switch in November is causing the issue - but the dealership denys all culpabilty - and charged me $100 for a diagnosis/reset - the result of which I don't have in my hand at work.

The reset didn't hold - on the way back to my daughter's college (Keene, NH) the alarm came back. I'm thinking "clockspring."

The car will be back in town mid March. Daughter (and wife) realizes that as long as the SRS light is on she has no air-bags. Not the ideal situation but as I tell my wife - a lot of accidents happened in cars before airbags, and airbags are not guarantee against hurt. Sometimes the opposite.

I don't have a Scan tool that will do the Honda specific codes, it's a OBD-II aimed at check engine only. But I do know how to jumper the connection and how to read the blinking SRS light codes.

We have until September to straighten out the car for inspection, safety issues not considered.

Why don't I get in touch with you at that time if I have questions?

We can start here as a PM.

Thanks,
Joe K

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by Joe K

We're thinking that a steering column disassembly by the dealership to replace the ignition switch in November is causing the issue - but the dealership denys all culpabilty - and charged me $100 for a diagnosis/reset - the result of which I don't have in my hand at work.

The reset didn't hold - on the way back to my daughter's college (Keene, NH) the alarm came back. I'm thinking "clockspring."

The car will be back in town mid March. Daughter (and wife) realizes that as long as the SRS light is on she has no air-bags. Not the ideal situation but as I tell my wife - a lot of accidents happened in cars before airbags, and airbags are not guarantee against hurt. Sometimes the opposite.

I don't have a Scan tool that will do the Honda specific codes, it's a OBD-II aimed at check engine only. But I do know how to jumper the connection and how to read the blinking SRS light codes.

We have until September to straighten out the car for inspection, safety issues not considered.

Why don't I get in touch with you at that time if I have questions?

We can start here as a PM.

Thanks,
Joe K

Joe,
PM when your ready and i will be glad to help you
dealers blow and there are only a couple of good guys in each one.. the rest are essentially idiots and parts replacers..