Nu Rex automatic timing

[Daba]

Just wanted to throw it out there to see what everybody thinks about the Nu Rex automatic timing device. Does it work? Is it worth the money? Any advice you could give me would be appreciated. Thank you very much Daba.

[Patrick L.]

I like what Henry did, it's all part of owning/driving an 'A'. But, to each his own.

[Daba]

The car runs really well but overheats now and then not full. Blown overheating, but pukes water. I was told I need to adjust my timing as I’m driving as much as I tried it’s not working.

[alexiskai]

• It does work
• Whether it's worth the cost is a personal decision for you
• The Nu-Rex website has extensive info about it, you can read up on it and pretty much trust what they say.
• If you're looking at it specifically to treat overheating, my advice would be to call Nu-Rex and ask whether automatic advance adjustment is likely to help. Bob is quite knowledgeable and will have an opinion about it.

[jetrod]

I have the device on my 2 cars and they are good around town in stop and start driving--no need to change gear as much. At highway speeds they don't make much difference. I like them. JR

[Werner]

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Daba,


I drive it since about two or three years. Easy to install, it works pretty. I would buy it again.

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by Daba

The car runs really well but overheats now and then not full. Blown overheating, but pukes water. I was told I need to adjust my timing as I’m driving as much as I tried it’s not working.

Why is it overheating ? Shouldn't be because of timing. If base timing is correct then timing lever should be at 8:30-9:00 when running. Most times overheating caused by bad radiator or plugged up block. Block can be cleaned by removing side hose mount and drill with a piece of speedometer cable and then flush with garden hose.

[nkaminar]

As Patrick said, the overheating is probably due to another reason. Unless you are running your timing very far advanced or very far retarded, that is unlikely the cause of your overheating.

Regarding timing: Find the knee. With the car in neutral, run the engine about 1000 rpm (a fast idle) and slowly advance the timing one notch at a time. The engine speed will increase until you reach a point where the speed will not increase with an additional notch. Move the lever back one notch and that is where you should be running the ignition for most of your driving. Make note of where the lever is. If cruising on a level road at a constant speed, you can advance the timing one notch. If going up a grade with the pedal to the metal, you can retard the timing one notch.

The reason this works is that the air/fuel burns quicker when the engine is running at a higher speed so advancing the ignition is not necessary. This is especially true with higher compression heads and not true with overhead conversions without a squish area.