The Ford Barn

Jwilli · 06-07-2015, 06:28 PM

Bought an A engine with a B trans, at what I hope is a good price. Generator, fan and water pump included. If I decide to install in one of my cars what kind of issues or problems can I expect?

The engine # is: star at both ends: A2885416 , trans # star at both ends B5I65428.

Bob C · 06-07-2015, 06:54 PM

If your going to keep the B trans you'll need to adapt the lower
flywheel housing from a B pan and get some mounting brackets for
the wishbone and clutch and brake pedals.

Bob

quickchange · 06-07-2015, 07:00 PM

Lots . exhaust manifold will need changing, radius rod mount, pedal mount , Can be done , Clings i beleive do a conversion kit . mounts at least the V8 trans to A block with all attachments, Might be easier to swap B gears into V8 housing then all bolts on , Top of the line kit ,

Chris Haynes · 06-07-2015, 10:55 PM

Can you show a picture of the valve cover side of the engine?

Jwilli · 06-08-2015, 08:28 AM

Valve cover side of engine, note the white tubing is a modified grocery cart that came with the unit. Third pic is of mounts, possibly for float a motor. I now have a 32 rear end, 2 rocky mountain drums (12") with back plates. A 32b zenith carb. 2 18" wire wheels. Seems that someone is telling me that I need a 32 ford.

Charlie Stephens · 06-08-2015, 11:44 AM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Jwilli

Valve cover side of engine, note the white tubing is a modified grocery cart that came with the unit. Third pic is of mounts, possibly for float a motor. I now have a 32 rear end, 2 rocky mountain drums (12") with back plates. A 32b zenith carb. 2 18" wire wheels. Seems that someone is telling me that I need a 32 ford.

The third picture shows the brackets for the engine stabilizer rods used beginning in 1932. The drums you have are not Rocky Mountain Drums (unless I am missing something), they are just standard 1932 drums (cast with ventilation like the late 1931 Model A drums).

Charlie Stephens

Jwilli · 06-08-2015, 12:27 PM

Charlie, you could very well be right. I still have lots to learn and the Barn is better info than the books. I do both. I appreciate the knowledgeable people who are willing to share their knowledge of the A. Thanks

Jwilli · 06-14-2015, 02:21 PM

Got engine on stand and opened up. Found some concerns: 1. the camshaft plunger was installed wrong, the plunger was in the cover and the spring was riding against the metal timing gear. Wonder how that sounded? 2. 3 items found in the oil pan. one appears to be a piston pin retainer. One looks like part of a washer. The other is a very small piece that looks like part of tubing. There was only a very small amount of sludge in the oil pan (maybe 1/3 of a cup). Bottom end looks like it was rebuilt not too long ago. You experts please look and tell me what you see and what you suggest. Thanks in advance.

Bob C · 06-14-2015, 03:14 PM

Pretty fancy rod shims.

Bob

Tom Wesenberg · 06-14-2015, 10:08 PM

I would take it all apart and check everything. Looks like a couple damaged teeth on the crank and cam gears. As Bob mentioned, those shims aren't correct, and I wonder if they fit the full surface of the rod? Remove all the rust. I wonder if the snap ring is from one of these pistons, or from a former pisston? How do the cylinder walls look?

colin1928 · 06-15-2015, 04:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

I would take it all apart and check everything. Looks like a couple damaged teeth on the crank and cam gears. As Bob mentioned, those shims aren't correct, and I wonder if they fit the full surface of the rod? Remove all the rust. I wonder if the snap ring is from one of these pistons, or from a former pisston? How do the cylinder walls look?

X2 that piston Circlip would worry me

Jwilli · 06-15-2015, 05:42 AM

Thanks, Tom and Colin. I do plan to take it all apart. The shims appear to be homemade, that makes me question if they are the correct thickness. The cylinder wall look good from the bottom. All the "B" stuff was only finger tight, so the engine was not operated that way.

Jwilli · 06-15-2015, 07:24 PM

Got the head off today. Head looks good. Top of pistons had quite a bit of carbon buildup. Cylinder walls clean with no grooves. All valves appear to work correctly. Pistons are .010. Will inspect bottom area closely and the make a decision. Tom W. you have very sharp eyes. The crank gear had 2 slightly damaged teeth. A little file work was done I think it will be OK. Timing gear was not tightened properly. The engine was definitely rebuilt at some time, but obviously not by a professional.

06-07-2015, 06:54 PM	#2
Bob C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: So Cal Posts: 8,753	Re: Model A engine with B transmission If your going to keep the B trans you'll need to adapt the lower flywheel housing from a B pan and get some mounting brackets for the wishbone and clutch and brake pedals. Bob

06-07-2015, 07:00 PM	#3
quickchange Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Nelson. New Zealand Posts: 2,009	Re: Model A engine with B transmission Lots . exhaust manifold will need changing, radius rod mount, pedal mount , Can be done , Clings i beleive do a conversion kit . mounts at least the V8 trans to A block with all attachments, Might be easier to swap B gears into V8 housing then all bolts on , Top of the line kit ,

06-07-2015, 10:55 PM	#4
Chris Haynes Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Camarillo, CA and Pine Grove, CA Posts: 2,832	Re: Model A engine with B transmission Can you show a picture of the valve cover side of the engine? __________________ 1921 Runabout 1930 Tudor Early 1930 AA Speed costs money. How fast do you want to go?

06-08-2015, 12:27 PM	#7
Jwilli Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Kennesaw, Ga Posts: 511	Re: Model A engine with B transmission Charlie, you could very well be right. I still have lots to learn and the Barn is better info than the books. I do both. I appreciate the knowledgeable people who are willing to share their knowledge of the A. Thanks

06-14-2015, 03:14 PM	#9
Bob C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: So Cal Posts: 8,753	Re: Model A engine with B transmission Pretty fancy rod shims. Bob

06-14-2015, 10:08 PM	#10
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Model A engine with B transmission I would take it all apart and check everything. Looks like a couple damaged teeth on the crank and cam gears. As Bob mentioned, those shims aren't correct, and I wonder if they fit the full surface of the rod? Remove all the rust. I wonder if the snap ring is from one of these pistons, or from a former pisston? How do the cylinder walls look?

06-15-2015, 05:42 AM	#12
Jwilli Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Kennesaw, Ga Posts: 511	Re: Model A engine with B transmission Thanks, Tom and Colin. I do plan to take it all apart. The shims appear to be homemade, that makes me question if they are the correct thickness. The cylinder wall look good from the bottom. All the "B" stuff was only finger tight, so the engine was not operated that way.

06-15-2015, 07:24 PM	#13
Jwilli Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: Kennesaw, Ga Posts: 511	Re: Model A engine with B transmission Got the head off today. Head looks good. Top of pistons had quite a bit of carbon buildup. Cylinder walls clean with no grooves. All valves appear to work correctly. Pistons are .010. Will inspect bottom area closely and the make a decision. Tom W. you have very sharp eyes. The crank gear had 2 slightly damaged teeth. A little file work was done I think it will be OK. Timing gear was not tightened properly. The engine was definitely rebuilt at some time, but obviously not by a professional.