Torque tube gastet

[aermotor]

Is it possible to replace the torque tube to banjo gasket using a split gasket without removing the rear end?

John

[kenparker]

Yep! Been there. Done that. Split the gasket about 1 inch left or right of the top bolt. Then use plenty of good quality gasket sealer in the split area. The bolt holes to the left and right of the split will help hold the gasket- and the split- in correct position. ken

[1931 flamingo]

I thought originally there was NOT a gasket there??
Paul in CT

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by aermotor

Is it possible to replace the torque tube to banjo gasket using a split gasket without removing the rear end?

John

From the factory, there was no gasket in this location.
Do as Ken did and you'll be OK. I've also split the gasket over the U-joint cover with an installed rear end, to install it without R&R the rear end.

[J Franklin]

Black RTV gasket goo. you don't have to split a thing.

[Mitch//pa]

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I would pass on the standard RTV and Use "right stuff" to put it back together after splitting the gasket.

[Gold Digger]

I'm a big fan of Permatex "form a gasket" for certain things like that.

[J Franklin]

Yes I like the Peratex FaG also when using a gasket but since a gasket wasn't used originally, the RTV Is only for positive seal of gear oil only, and won't show if done carefully.

[Kevin in NJ]

A gasket was not used on purpose.

The metal to metal mating locks the rear race into place. It is possible that the pinion race can move some if you use a gasket.

If it moves then it affects the pinion to ring gear fit.

[aermotor]

Kevin got me thinking, which is not good. I think I know what he is saying - so how do I prevent this from happening?

John

[tinkirk]

do what Mitch says the Right Stuff kind of pricey but the best on the market
Tinkirk/Terry

[aermotor]

Need a little more help. Bolts are out - they were tight! Doesn't appear that there was a gasket there and not enough clearance to slid the new one in. I would like to stop that infernal drip drip.

John

[redmodelt]

Did you take the bolt out at the front for the radius rods?

[Bruce Lancaster]

Kevin's take is interesting! Ford kept the same basic case and gears for most of the 1932 model year, banjo housing, pinion gears, etc. identical to Model A.
They did add in a gasket then...B-4507, listed for B and 18 only, no retrofit to Model A noted. Nomenclature was "Gasket (torque tube to differential housing) (use with torque tube with oil groove.)"
Now...what does that last note mean, exactly? Was it perhaps a roundabout sort of warning not to use on Model A, or were there 2 flavors of Model B tubes? I do not recall seeing an oil groove in a B and don't know exactly what that would be. Maybe I have a loose tube in the basement to examine.

[aermotor]

There is a notch in the new gasket on the inside - if that means anything. My Tudor is Nov. 28

John

[tinkirk]

Originally Posted by aermotor

Need a little more help. Bolts are out - they were tight! Doesn't appear that there was a gasket there and not enough clearance to slid the new one in. I would like to stop that infernal drip drip.

John

do as i did all bolts out including the wish bone bolt up front slide a putty knife or flat blade screw driver push right stuff in with your finger as best you can bolt it all back together and wipe the excess all the way around when the sealant drys give it a skirt of paint leak will be gone

[d.j. moordigian]

Originally Posted by Kevin in NJ

A gasket was not used on purpose.

The metal to metal mating locks the rear race into place. It is possible that the pinion race can move some if you use a gasket.

If it moves then it affects the pinion to ring gear fit.

Kevin's answer is the ONLY correct answer..

I'm part of a small group of "restores" that email and talk regularly,..and
this post came up last night. Two in the group have been banned,..so your
going to hear it from me.

The torque tube and the differential are / were made as a "machine fit", the
torque tube is a "net" fit against the outer pinion race...too stop the outer
race from moving. To fix your oil leak...it needs to be CLEAN and DRY with
NO BURS,...then apply a thin coat of Permatex sealant. I don't think you
can do this with the rear end in the car tho..

[Mitch//pa]

I think everyone agrees they were not originally used.. Tom Endy recommends a gasket in his tutorial. I have been using a gasket for the record

[aermotor]

Question: Where is the oil coming from - up front or the banjo? It started after I replaced the front gaskets, however, I drove it about 50 miles - more than any one time since restoration. I did detect tread in between the flanges, which, with my limited knowledge would be consistent with matched machined surfaces. So I guess I will try to dribble some type of permatex between the flanges - should make everyone happy especially me if it works. Shouldn't be any worse off.

John

[redmodelt]

Don't dribble too much, don't want any flowing into the bearings and locking up the rollers!