35 Ford 3w cpe radiator

[Tom Z...]

New to the forum. Been on FordBarn for a few years.I started to restore my 35 Ford 3w cpe. I got a few surprises: had my radiator checked and tested, they said it is shot. Question is: should I get it fixed $725 or get one of the new aluminum ones $525? Does the aluminum ones do the job? Also, the roll down rear window drain panel is rotted/rusted away. Does anybody repop these panels? I plan on using a later flathead V-8, radial www tires, 40 juice brakes and 12V system. I live north of Hershey and use the 2 interstates to get around. Thanks in advance for any input. Tom

[SUHRsc]

Hi Tom,
Where do you live, north of Hershey. I am in Grantville.

I have a '35 5 window (project)

Have you checked with Middletown Radiator on rebuilding the original? I'm sure the core is pricey if it needs a new one. But he always treats me well there.

Good luck
Zach

[Willit Stop]

Tom...you might want to think about brake energizers or floaters.I installed them on my '36 and they work great!! Fifty some bucks.Cheap! It might take you an afternoon but it's time well spent.No fluid leaks. Gene

[Brendan]

Originally Posted by Willit Stop

Tom...you might want to think about brake energizers or floaters.I installed them on my '36 and they work great!! Fifty some bucks.Cheap! It might take you an afternoon but it's time well spent.No fluid leaks. Gene

yep, and the brakes will still work after sitting for awhile!

[Matt in Alameda]

I had my '35 5 Window coupe radiator re-cored and it cost $610...which I thought was outrageous....but it runs perfect and I am very happy with it. I would ask a local car club for info and shop around and fix the old one...in this year the radiator has tabs for the hood sides and other unique alignment points........if they are off a little it will be a mess fitting the hood, which is a MAJOR undertaking when everything is original to start with ....save the old one, you will not regret it. There is a guy in Colorado that was making replacement rear window drains...very expensive, but the only game in town...I will try to find his info.....he has posted one in the SWAP section on Ford barn a year plus ago.....Matt in Alameda

[Matt in Alameda]

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Tom,..On Ebay there is a drain pan for a 1932 Ford # 270767393263 The one for a '35 ( in Colorado)was about three times the cost of this one....I have yet to find his contact information.....Matt in Alameda

[Matt in Alameda]

Mac's Antique Auto has them for $350....item# VM233A.....Matt in Alameda

[Tom Z...]

Hi Zach, I live in Hazleton less than 1 hour up I-81 from Hershey. Thanks for the reference for the Middletown Radiator business. I'll give them a call to see what they do for me. Tom

[Tom Z...]

Hi Matt, Thanks for your input towards my radiator and rear window drain pan. I called Mac's today and ordered a drain pan...(on back order). I will probably have my original radiator recored ($725). Thanks Tom

[Tom Z...]

Hi Gene, Do you think the mechanical brakes are just as safe as juice brakes. These old car brakes are new to me...Tom

[Willit Stop]

I think so Tom.Mine stops great! I can roll it down the driveway very slowly and skid the tires.Easy install too.Before I installed them a panic stop meant...ok, I'm gonna lose the grille.I really didn't want to alter the originality of the car,mechanical speaking.And didn't want to go through the expense of finding later model backing plates etc.plus the bloody knuckles.Fifty +bucks well spent.If you need some pointers or more info,I'm glad to help. Gene

[ford38v8]

I'll jump in and answer for Gene with a quote from Henry Ford: "The safety of steel from pedal to wheel."

I personally believe that many collector cars are better off with mechanical brakes rather than juice brakes due to extended storage damage to the cylinders. There's nothing permanent, nothing solid about juice brakes. Old Henry made a very valid point with that quote.

But then, you've been lurking here for a few years and yet you're still gonna run radials, aluminum radiator and 12 volts, so might as well go for broke with juice brakes, most guys do that anyway without a second thought.

[Terry,OH]

There is an early 35 radiator with the large top tank and the later 35 with a small top tank. Early has the overflow tube down the side and the later has it on the front center. The radiator upper supports rods to the firewall (length) and the front lower vented shield (notch for the overflow tube) also changed due to the radiator changes.

[G.M.]

Mechanical brakes will slide all 4 wheels if set up right. You need good wheel bearing seals so grease don't get on the shoes, no warn shaft, pedal or main shaft bushings. Good rod ends, straight rods, clevis's and clevis pins. There is a printed procedure to set up and adjust these brakes. One thing about mechanical brakes is there is no moisture damage to cylinders, leaks or loss of fluid under heavy foot pressure. Back in THE day when we were young after WWll it was well known these brakes didn't work to good after a lot of braking. This was from wheel bearing seals leaking grease and the linings were soaked. I drive all cars including modern ones staying a good distance from the car in front using the engine compression to slow down bumping the brakes slightly as I come to a stop. Following close in an old car or any car is inviting a damaged front end. G.M.

[Marvin/TN]

get one of the new aluminum ones

If you decide to get a new Radiator I would get a copper/brass one. Aluminum radiators are fragle and easily damaged and only way to repair them if the need comes up is to pinch off the bad tube and apply epoxy and you have lost the use of that tube. Coolingis about the same for either. Only advantage is weight savings for the Aluminum radiator.

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by Marvin/TN

get one of the new aluminum ones

If you decide to get a new Radiator I would get a copper/brass one. Aluminum radiators are fragle and easily damaged and only way to repair them if the need comes up is to pinch off the bad tube and apply epoxy and you have lost the use of that tube. Coolingis about the same for either. Only advantage is weight savings for the Aluminum radiator.

For myself I would be afraid of flexing of the aluminum the way the radiators mount in the old Fords. G.M.