The Ford Barn

daren007 · 09-09-2018, 11:59 AM

The title of this thread made me think of something else.

Cool Hand Lurker · 09-09-2018, 08:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigd1101

So I would need two correct? Both on the exposed shaft at each end? Shouldn't effect the balance right?

You only need one. put it on the end of the shaft that is nearest the fan. The fan will keep the shaft from moving toward the block and the collar will keep it from moving toward the radiator.

bigd1101 · 09-10-2018, 06:09 AM

I contacted the previous owner of the A and he says and I quote " it is on with simulated studs, so you can take it off without taking the radiator off." I wasn't planning on taking the rad off anyway as a two blade fan doesn't require that, but what in the H are "simulated studs"?

aermotor · 09-10-2018, 06:20 AM

I would like to see some kind of C shaped spacer of different thickness, as needed, that be can be slipped over the worn stop on the head. Would something like this restore the head stop to the correct depth?

John

bigd1101 · 09-10-2018, 06:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cool Hand Lurker

You only need one. put it on the end of the shaft that is nearest the fan. The fan will keep the shaft from moving toward the block and the collar will keep it from moving toward the radiator.

So where do I get one? What size?

Tom Wesenberg · 09-10-2018, 07:21 AM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by bigd1101

I contacted the previous owner of the A and he says and I quote " it is on with simulated studs, so you can take it off without taking the radiator off." I wasn't planning on taking the rad off anyway as a two blade fan doesn't require that, but what in the H are "simulated studs"?

Bolts that look like a stud with a nut. They sure help for clearance since no studs are sticking out.

Tom Wesenberg · 09-10-2018, 07:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by aermotor

I would like to see some kind of C shaped spacer of different thickness, as needed, that be can be slipped over the worn stop on the head. Would something like this restore the head stop to the correct depth?

John

You can buy the longer shaft, but I'd use the collar stop. Too bad Ford didn't have that.

bigd1101 · 09-10-2018, 07:41 AM

OK.....the previous owner says.........

" The pump was originally held on by studs sticking out of the head and nuts on the front of the pump. You can't get the pump off without taking the radiator off because the studs are too long. The ones on that car are bolts that go on from the front of the pump. If you look at them the head is made to look like a stud and nut. Once you get them out there are no studs sticking out and there should be enough room to get the pump off."

Ingenious!

bigd1101 · 09-10-2018, 07:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Bolts that look like a stud with a nut. They sure help for clearance since no studs are sticking out.

Yeah! I just posted the previous owners explanation.......how ingenious!

bigd1101 · 09-10-2018, 08:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Bolts that look like a stud with a nut. They sure help for clearance since no studs are sticking out.

Tom.........
Will I need to still tip the radiator forward at the top after removing the hood or will the pump and the impeller lift out without doing all that?

katy · 09-10-2018, 08:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigd1101

I contacted the previous owner of the A and he says and I quote " it is on with simulated studs, so you can take it off without taking the radiator off." I wasn't planning on taking the rad off anyway as a two blade fan doesn't require that, but what in the H are "simulated studs"?

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/pump-mounting-kit

bigd1101 · 09-10-2018, 08:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by katy

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/pump-mounting-kit

Will I need to still tip the radiator forward at the top after removing the hood or will the pump and the impeller lift out without doing all that?

Tom Wesenberg · 09-10-2018, 07:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigd1101

Tom.........
Will I need to still tip the radiator forward at the top after removing the hood or will the pump and the impeller lift out without doing all that?

Probably not if you have 1 inch clearance from the pump shaft to the radiator, like my original parts have.

bigd1101 · 09-12-2018, 06:04 AM

Update: the pump came off without tilting the rad. Those simulated bolts that look like studs are an ingenious invention. Waiting on the new pump. Looks like a 20 min. job altogether thanks to those bolts. Getting a new fan as the old one had some stress cracks. Will run distilled water and Water Wetter in the rad until the cold comes which will be soon here in upstate NY. Then I'll fill her up with 50/50 green antifreeze, burn the gas up in the lines and carb, put her to bed and wait until Spring........

Don

30 Closed Cab PU · 09-12-2018, 07:25 AM

Napa Macs 1300 Rust Inhibitor is also usually recommended when using distilled water.

30 Closed Cab PU · 09-12-2018, 07:31 AM

Also, my method is to fill her up with ethanol free, add some gas stabilizer like Stabil 360, run it, and to bed she goes. Should help keep condensation/water out, do not have to be concerned about E10 gas phase separation, and stabilize the gas.

bigd1101 · 09-12-2018, 07:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 30 Closed Cab PU

Also, my method is to fill her up with ethanol free, add some gas stabilizer like Stabil 360, run it, and to bed she goes. Should help keep condensation/water out, do not have to be concerned about E10 gas phase separation, and stabilize the gas.

Yes..almost forgot.......plus keep a full tank of gas. Less condensation at the top of the tank.

bigd1101 · 09-12-2018, 08:04 AM

Is this needed on a new water pump? I thought the grease covered the pump lube part? I suppose the anti-rust additive is good for the rad and water jacket.....but I'm adding Water Wetter and they say that has anti-rust stuff in it. I'm using straight distilled water.

Bar-s-Leaks-Water-Pump-Lube-with-Anti-Rust

Tom Wesenberg · 09-12-2018, 08:31 AM

Antifreeze is a good lubricant for the seal. Rusty water will eat up the seal, then the bearings.

And, that unexpected early freeze will bust the block on anyone not using antifreeze.
Just ask Bert's about how many engines he sells for that reason.

30 Closed Cab PU · 09-12-2018, 08:48 AM

Water wetter has some pump lube, but I have had multiple Senior Members of the Barn recommend to also the MACs, so I do, do not remember if there was an explanation why to use both.

Depending on the type of leakless water pump your are using, modern bearings/seals remove the need for greasing. Advantage of this is a better seal (no drippage and mess in the motor bay) and no worries about over greasing and getting grease into the coolant clogging up your radiator. The grease/lead packing/packing nut is the seal on original water pumps, they are prone to drippage. The packing nut is to provide adjustment of grease/lead packing seal. Do not know if its is true, was told that the pump was actually designed to drip at a very low drip rate to help cooling the seal area and the pump shaft. Part of updates to original pumps and leakless pumps is to add a modern seal in the packing nut area. The water pump lube helps keep the seal conditioned. Not sure if there are other benefits to the lube.

09-09-2018, 11:59 AM	#21
daren007 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Saint Cloud Mn Posts: 745	Re: Play in water pump shaft The title of this thread made me think of something else.

09-10-2018, 06:09 AM	#23
bigd1101 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Ithaca Posts: 345	Re: Play in water pump shaft I contacted the previous owner of the A and he says and I quote " it is on with simulated studs, so you can take it off without taking the radiator off." I wasn't planning on taking the rad off anyway as a two blade fan doesn't require that, but what in the H are "simulated studs"?

09-10-2018, 06:20 AM	#24
aermotor Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: Greenville, SC Posts: 1,099	Re: Play in water pump shaft I would like to see some kind of C shaped spacer of different thickness, as needed, that be can be slipped over the worn stop on the head. Would something like this restore the head stop to the correct depth? John

09-10-2018, 07:41 AM	#28
bigd1101 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Ithaca Posts: 345	Re: Play in water pump shaft OK.....the previous owner says......... " The pump was originally held on by studs sticking out of the head and nuts on the front of the pump. You can't get the pump off without taking the radiator off because the studs are too long. The ones on that car are bolts that go on from the front of the pump. If you look at them the head is made to look like a stud and nut. Once you get them out there are no studs sticking out and there should be enough room to get the pump off." Ingenious!

09-12-2018, 06:04 AM	#34
bigd1101 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Ithaca Posts: 345	Re: Play in water pump shaft Update: the pump came off without tilting the rad. Those simulated bolts that look like studs are an ingenious invention. Waiting on the new pump. Looks like a 20 min. job altogether thanks to those bolts. Getting a new fan as the old one had some stress cracks. Will run distilled water and Water Wetter in the rad until the cold comes which will be soon here in upstate NY. Then I'll fill her up with 50/50 green antifreeze, burn the gas up in the lines and carb, put her to bed and wait until Spring........ Don

09-12-2018, 07:25 AM	#35
30 Closed Cab PU Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2018 Posts: 2,332	Re: Play in water pump shaft Napa Macs 1300 Rust Inhibitor is also usually recommended when using distilled water.

09-12-2018, 07:31 AM	#36
30 Closed Cab PU Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2018 Posts: 2,332	Re: Play in water pump shaft Also, my method is to fill her up with ethanol free, add some gas stabilizer like Stabil 360, run it, and to bed she goes. Should help keep condensation/water out, do not have to be concerned about E10 gas phase separation, and stabilize the gas.

09-12-2018, 08:04 AM	#38
bigd1101 Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2018 Location: Ithaca Posts: 345	Re: Play in water pump shaft Is this needed on a new water pump? I thought the grease covered the pump lube part? I suppose the anti-rust additive is good for the rad and water jacket.....but I'm adding Water Wetter and they say that has anti-rust stuff in it. I'm using straight distilled water. Bar-s-Leaks-Water-Pump-Lube-with-Anti-Rust

09-12-2018, 08:31 AM	#39
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Play in water pump shaft Antifreeze is a good lubricant for the seal. Rusty water will eat up the seal, then the bearings. And, that unexpected early freeze will bust the block on anyone not using antifreeze. Just ask Bert's about how many engines he sells for that reason.

09-12-2018, 08:48 AM	#40
30 Closed Cab PU Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2018 Posts: 2,332	Re: Play in water pump shaft Water wetter has some pump lube, but I have had multiple Senior Members of the Barn recommend to also the MACs, so I do, do not remember if there was an explanation why to use both. Depending on the type of leakless water pump your are using, modern bearings/seals remove the need for greasing. Advantage of this is a better seal (no drippage and mess in the motor bay) and no worries about over greasing and getting grease into the coolant clogging up your radiator. The grease/lead packing/packing nut is the seal on original water pumps, they are prone to drippage. The packing nut is to provide adjustment of grease/lead packing seal. Do not know if its is true, was told that the pump was actually designed to drip at a very low drip rate to help cooling the seal area and the pump shaft. Part of updates to original pumps and leakless pumps is to add a modern seal in the packing nut area. The water pump lube helps keep the seal conditioned. Not sure if there are other benefits to the lube.