I'm going to try to repair this fender

[MSmelcer40]

1ST I'm going to hammer it back into relative shape Maybe a wire along the edge...then try to stich the tear....nothing to lose and knowledge to gain.

[Vics Stuff]

It never hurts to give something a try. That is how we learn.
Vic

[Kube]

Originally Posted by MSmelcer40

1ST I'm going to hammer it back into relative shape Maybe a wire along the edge...then try to stich the tear....nothing to lose and knowledge to gain.

I can share the knowledge I'd gained through the years when handed something akin to this to finish. If a replacement is available, purchase it.

[MSmelcer40]

Kube,I'm learning metal work as I go...I do think I'm going to source a new fender down the road.Its amazing how beat up this fender is

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by MSmelcer40

Its amazing how beat up this fender is

[Kube]

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Originally Posted by MSmelcer40

Kube,I'm learning metal work as I go...I do think I'm going to source a new fender down the road.Its amazing how beat up this fender is

From my perspective, the time it would take me to make this "concourse" would far outweigh the cost of a much nicer fender.
A good one to learn on for certain.

[Marcus]

MSmelcer40: while I quite agree with and respect Kube, that fender is repairable and a perfect platform upon which to learn basic metal repairing and finishing. May I suggest your proposal for repair sequence is proper and you would be well~served to review a few uTube videos explaining metal propensities and working. Go for it, take your time and publish the results!

[Steve in Denver]

It might be worth investing in one of these, wish I had, it would have saved lots of hours and pounds of bondo.

[petehoovie]

Originally Posted by Steve Kennedy

It might be worth investing in one of these, wish I had, it would have saved lots of hours and pounds of bondo.

[robib]

If you are going to try straightening, use a wooden slapper (hammer). Much more effective than even a body hammer, plus will keep stretching down to a minimum.

[MSmelcer40]

I love Harbor Frieght....there's one 2 streets over from where I live

[MSmelcer40]

I've contacted Eastwood and they have a set of hammers and a slapping file ....you say wooden?

[Newc]

Frequently it is best to have a fender bolted in place when working on it. May not fit if tried later. Newc

[MSmelcer40]

I've seen where they make a jig that replicates the bedside from a piece of plywood....I still will leave it bolted to the truck.....my plan is to resist completely disassembling the truck until I get it running and driving.then while waiting for the Engine rebuild I will do some bodywork.

[Lawson Cox]

If you do decide to repair that fender, PLEASE do not put a metal rod pr piece of wire in it. That is not nice to put it mildly. Repair it properly.

[MSmelcer40]

Is it Taboo or something to put a price of 3/16 " wire it the fender behind the lip....I actually thought some years had them factory......anyway I have to hold the torn fender aligned somehow

[Shu47]

I love it when people try stuff like this. I think you can save it and like you say even if you don't you gain knowledge.

Good Luck

[bobH]

Originally Posted by MSmelcer40

Is it Taboo or something to put a price of 3/16 " wire it the fender behind the lip....I actually thought some years had them factory......anyway I have to hold the torn fender aligned somehow

Some fenders that I have worked, have had a factory 'wire'. I wonder if you and Lawson are talking the same thing. No matter, I'd put whatever I needed in the bead, while working on it. And, remove later, if appropriate. Like others have posted, I'd see that fender as a learning experience. And, keep an eye out for a better fender, too. I recently worked some rear fenders on a 38 Plymouth, not quite as bad as what you have shown. I removed a bunch of filler, and putzed around with them over a month or so. When I quit messing with them, I was down to almost needing NO filler. And, if I was more patient, and cared more, I could have probably gone further. I'd call it 'learning', and also a little fun, as long as there is no schedule, and no peers or judge. Obviously, opinion.

[MSmelcer40]

Thanks.Shu

[MSmelcer40]

Thanks BOB

[Ken Henry]

Wear something over your ears so you can still enjoy the sound of your flathead after hammering on that fender. My 2 cents! I think it could come out ok

[Zeke3]

I have used a piece of electrical ground rod to use as a template for the shape of the rolled edge on the rear fender on my 37. It is about 1/2" in diameter. I made small individual patches for tears or rust out and would bend them over the rod to form the rolled edge, and cut off the excess after welding.

I would worry about getting an English wheel unless you want to make the whole fender from scratch. I don't think the wheel works on a weld. You might also check out Dagger Tools in Michigan, they offer a lot of tools for metalworking.

[aussie merc]

good on you hope it works out well, your willing to take the time and put in the effort should be more of it they wonder why trades are dying

[deuce_roadster]

You can do it. Get the book "keys to metal bumping" which I think was a text used in autobody repair schools. If you go to my MISC folder, I posted pictures of a 34 sedan delivery that I fixed, and it was my first go at metal working. I had good metal workers telling me how to go about it. I finished it in about 1983 and it was my LAST lacquer paint job. Did acrylic enamel after that and now single stage urethane.
As others have said, have the fender bolted to the bed side or it might not fit later.

[robib]

Wooden slappers and other wooden tools move more metal than you can imagine. Body hammers and dollies are needed as well, however, because they are metal they will stretch what you are trying to straighten at the same time. Bring the fender into shape with wood and then finish off with the body hammer etc. Shrinking is another topic for another time.

[sugarmaker]

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I will be watching this. I do not have the metal working skills to finish metal as I have seen some folks on line. There is a forum that is dedicated to metal working Trying to remember the name of it. Its www.meetmetal.com I think? Found it Here it is. My daughter says I am a "connector"! I did not know that but I guess if the shoe fits wear it!

http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/index.php

This metal working forum is just awesome for this type of work or you could get ideas for your project too.
Regards,
Chris

[Oldbluoval]

I’m a fairly experienced metalworker. I’d say that’s a challenge. You could make a useable fender……it doesn’t look like the metal is really solid enough to be able to re-form and/or weld successfully. But ever say never! Go for it
I’d suggest going on YouTube and watching several/many of Wray Schelin’s instructional videos.

“Is it Taboo or something to put a price of 3/16 " wire it the fender behind the lip....I actually thought some years had them factory......anyway I have to hold the torn fender aligned somehow”

Depending on what you can tolerate. Adding rod around the opening will make the fender appear it was done at a junk yard. Imho

[GB SISSON]

Originally Posted by Oldbluoval

I’m a fairly experienced metalworker. I’d say that’s a challenge. You could make a useable fender……it doesn’t look like the metal is really solid enough to be able to re-form and/or weld successfully. But ever say never! Go for it
I’d suggest going on YouTube and watching several/many of Wray Schelin’s instructional videos.

“Is it Taboo or something to put a price of 3/16 " wire it the fender behind the lip....I actually thought some years had them factory......anyway I have to hold the torn fender aligned somehow”

Depending on what you can tolerate. Adding rod around the opening will make the fender appear it was done at a junk yard. Imho

But tucking the rod into the fenders lip won't look wrong. I have fixed a lot of cracked fenders by bending 3/8" or so rod into the curve needed, then drilling holes along the bottom of the lip and plug welding the fender to the rod. This isn't for concourse, but if some care is taken, will look like it was done in a workmanlike manner. Many of the farm trucks I've owned have the weld over the crack and now the weld cracked. I doubt it would crack with that rod welded in. And don't forget to seal the heck out of the repair as it will hold mud and water. I hope you share your progress with us. Both Stu'Truckdog' and I are embarking on tonner rear fenders that aren't available aftermarket and good ones are near impossible to find. Thanks!

[MSmelcer40]

I certainly will share my progress. Thanks for all your input

[rockable]

Don't forget to buy a shrinking disc. You will definitely have stretched areas and if you try to smooth that out with an Englis Wheel, you will have more.

[tom1948]

good luck with the fender, the best advice I can give you is; study the dents for awhile, find the point or points of lmpact,and work back from there. Matt at iron trap had a tutorial awhile back where he worked a bad dent out of a fender did a respectable job too.

[v8fordman]

Here are some pictures of a '35-'37 pickup fender I repaired. It was rusted off in the front, crushed from the side and had a stake pocket in the top which was useless to me. (I had already cut the stake pocket out and pounded out the lip when I started making pictures) I like trying to save things that normally should be thrown away and this was one of those. The only good part of this fender was the lower rear section which gave me the incentive to repair since this is normally what is damaged. Give it your best shot. I have documented fixing this fender and perhaps will submit it to a magazine for publication from the perspective of an amateur. I am NOT a metal working guy...just someone who enjoys his quiet time under a welding helmet. Notice I do have it fastened to a homemade fixture and an original fender brace is attached. I believe it must be rigid to keep things in line so you have a good fit when everything is finished. I fixed the right rear bead as well which is why I have shown the pair in the last picture.

[Mart]

As stated above, try and locate the source of the impact and apply the reverse. You might try jacking out the big whammy in the rear part. I'd be trying to bend , pull and push things into better shape before reaching for any hammers.
As long as you're going for the farmer fix look it'll be great.
Mart.

[MSmelcer40]

V8Fordman,wow you did a great job.Im hopefully going to be able to save it...My alternative is to source a steel fender.the drivers side is much better and I'm confident I can remove the dent.I just don't want 1 fiberglass fender on my project...Thanks so much for your time

[JWL]

Those fenders are very rare. As far as I know, only fiberglass replacements are available. It will certainly be worthwhile to repair that steel fender.

[Frank Miller]

You can look up pro shaper on you tube and learn some stuff. You can make patterns and gauges from the left fender and turn them around and they will fit the right side. It lets you see how the metal needs to move to achieve the correct shape. Do not rule out cutting out some of the worse spots and making a patch.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z05Zw65GQp4

[B-O-B]

Bandit Billy has a good thread on repairing the fender on his 40 P U. He does the slicing & welding bit to remove the stretch of the fender when too large to shrink. His post is on the H A M B. check it out.

[v8fordman]

You will definitely have to slice some to remove the tension created by all of the stretching that has occurred. As others have said, stay away from the hammer as long as you can. I bumped most of the original damage out by using body dollies to do my hitting. I did invest in different shapes of Martin dollies. (the best in my opinion) Best of luck...you can do it.

[Mike Mayer]

that looks like a great winter project

[rotorwrench]

I started out rebuilding wrecked helicopters but most of the metal I worked was aluminum. It gave me the interest in metal shaping. I haven't been on the Metal Meet site for a while but I picked up a lot of ideas there and from a DVD by David Gardener over in the UK. Some folks like me, make all of our own tools for shaping. If a person has the where-with-all to purchase shrinkers, stretchers, and wheels then go for it. It does save time but I've also seen where a good shaper can use nothing but a O/A torch and basic hand tools to fabricate whole fenders from flat sheet. It just depends on how much time a person wants to invest in a project. An old stump with a bowl shape to the working end and a hammer made from an old wood baseball bat is a good way to start. Shot bags and a steel table are good. You can never have enough different hammers and bucking bars to shape stuff. I turn old chisels into swaging tools since folks will give away old dull ones. I must have dozens of regular files and different body files. A person can use part of an old leaf spring to make slappers. Wood slappers are good for finessing metal but it depends on how much work is needed.

Like any art form, there are a lot of things to learn. Welding and heat shrinking with an O/A torch will take some time to master but it works well when you get the hang of it. Part of metallurgy is knowing how to use heat for various purposes in fabricating and finishing a sheet metal part. Hammer welding is not really all that difficult but you have to get a feel for how the metal is going to react to what ever you do to it.

[MSmelcer40]

I'm excited to learn...starting with this fender

[alchemy]

I second (or third) the technique of pulling it back into shape while still attached to the truck. You will be putting a lot pf force into it, and the weight of the truck will keep it from skating around the workshop. As well as making sure the thing will mount up again properly. It is very surprising how much the shape can change with a small dent repair, let alone a huge one.

You can use big wooden mallets to rough it out and they won't stretch the steel near as badly as a regular body hammer will. Don't worry, you will have plenty of opportunity to use the hammers and dollies removing the small dents after you have it looking like a "fender" again. If you have a slide hammer with some pulling hooks, I'd recommend starting with those to get it as close as possible. Not talking the drilla hole and yank a screw slide hammer action.

I also think you shouldn't be adding a wire or rod inside the bead of any '40 fender. A sure sign of an amateur repair, and makes me cringe whenever I find one. If the area is stretched/cracked/work-hardened beyond repair, cut the area out and make a new patch.

[rotorwrench]

Hammer on dolly does stretch metal and a person wants to avoid further stretch in an already stretched area. Shrinking the worst stretch spots is more about heating the spot and then working the metal around that spot to work the thickness back to where it belongs. It's really more a forging process than a shrinking process but the result is the same. Metal will only shrink so far by the heat and quench method. Sometimes it can shrink too much so I'm not quick to cool some stuff. Compressed air can be used to cool rather than a wet rag. This stuff is only learned by practice.

On real hard creases, I've had to make a small slit in the crease then work the metal back out around it. At some point the slit can be tacked and worked with the hammer & dolly hot to flatten out the weld only. This is repeated in the weld up with short weld beads to control heat and flattening them back to normal thickness while still hot. Use as little filler as possible or be prepared to grind the weld some so as not to make the area too thick. If butt welds are close enough, a good torch man will not need any filler. Welding on the inside of a patch will leave less on the outside if this is possible. I've seen fender work done an a table and then refit after to do final metal work. A shrinking disk on a hand grinder does work but it also takes time to master that process as well.

[MSmelcer40]

Alchemy ,such great advice...Thank you..I wouldn't have thought to patch rhe real rough area

[MSmelcer40]

I'm going.to purchase a wooden mallet...I only have the steel ones with dollies

[deuce_roadster]

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If you have a wire feed welder, it will be worth your while to purchases a roll of "easy grind" wire that fits your machine. I have .023 in mine for sheet metal. This wire is much softer than the standard S6 that comes with most machines. ( Nothing wrong with OX ACT torch). These S number refer to the hardness. You will appreciate the soft wire when you hammer and dolly a welded area and it doesn't just crack from the more brittle S6 wire or when you need to bend the area. Back in the day you could purchase S0 wire but I haven't seen it in a long time. Lots of good advice on this forum. I have taken several of the Ron Covell courses and I think you can view online many of his techniques. Remember as stated, ALL these techniques require lots of practice to get proficient. I had the good fortune to have a best friend who graduated with a degree in autobody repair from a trade school back in the 1960s. He is who taught me many of the basics (shrinking and stretching) and how to properly prepare bare steel and then paint. Don't get discouraged. You may get a truly junk fender or door to practice on.
Good luck.

[MSmelcer40]

Thanks Deuce.Im amazed at the outpouring of support also

[rotorwrench]

With O/A equipment, I use RG45 filler wire when I need it. I also use an aircraft torch that was made by Victor a long time ago. I have a MIG welder but the wire is a lot harder than RG45 due to the force it takes to feed the wire. 45Ksi versus 70Ksi is a lot of difference. I don't use MIG due to that but I have used ER70S-6 and Argon/CO2 mix a time or two. A little aircraft torch is easier for me to handle anyway plus I tend to use fusion only (no filler rod)where ever I can get away with it. I don't have to do so much grinding or filing that way.

[Ben38]

How did the attempt at fixing the fender go?

[alanwoodieman]

right rear fenders on all three of my 40/41 pick ups were dented and broken. guess they backed into a lot of things. I commend you for trying to repair it--go ahead and post updates!! good luck

[Mart]

If you look for Carter auto restorations on YouTube, Kyle shows some great methods for fender repair. Very good videos.

Mart.

[richard crow]

before you start pray for help it helps

[Frank Miller]

This is an Austin Healey shroud that actually got straightened. Wray is a pretty smart guy and if you watch his videos you can learn a lot. When you understand the the term "area value" and "arrangement it all makes sense as to how it works. His flexible shape patterns and gauges are used by quite a few people. It is merely tape covering the panel you want to reproduce with a low stick type of masking tape and writing information then covering that with clear shipping tape. You end up with a thin sheet of plastic that can be turned inside out to reproduce the other side.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Al-O3_4Xas

[KDAWG97M3]

Awesome

[BoxCar Tom]

Here's a book on the subject

[pistonbroke]

I had a 36 Dodge pickup that was straight and clean. Was just a nice survivor as they say today. I was driving it down a country road and hit a bad chuck hole. The right rear fender came lose and got drug under the tire then came out the back like a frisbee . Looked a lot worse then yours with less availability . Needless to say I saved it. I learned a lot with that fender and still use and share that knowledge to this day. Look at it like a challenge and go for it. You'll be glad you did. Tim

[deuce_roadster]

Getting a no filler job with that fender as a first time bodyman is a big challenge. It CAN be done. If you look at my MISC folder, there are pictures of a 34 sedan delivery I fixed as a first time metal working project. I had lots of expert advice from old school professionals as to how to go about it. I was able to do the 34 because it had NO rust and nobody else tried to fix it before me. It can be done but as Mike suggested, a better starting point will be worth your time and make the job easier. You will learn a lot either way. Good luck

[ronn]

I can share the knowledge I'd gained through the years when handed something akin to this to finish. If a replacement is available, purchase it. __________________




amen to that. life is too short to waste.

[NealinCA]

Here's a reference to an old "post" I did over on the HAMB about some fender repair...

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...h-post.444029/

I found a few more pictures after I stripped the paint and worked the fenders with a shrinking disc and pick. See below

Good luck with your project.

Neal

[B-O-B]

I have used the orange plastic hammer in repairing a front 34 fender. It weighs 3# .

[Tinker]

It helps if you have a couple fenders with different issues. Will be fun to see how ya do. Not impossible.

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=140197