Delving into the air, heat and defroster system, 56 Wagon Experts out ther

[Jwawhite]

Need an expert who is familiar with unit in car. Nothing works, the two cables/levers on dash are frozen. The fan switch switches but fan is inoperable. When the interior painting was done, gloss black was sprayed on the housing units under the dash. The small hinged door on the housing is frozen part way open from the paint. I am assuming the one wire cable may be frozen also at the lever/bar on interior housing. There is some sort of nipple there with no vacuum hose? The defroster hoses are hooked up to the scoops under the dash. The fresh air cable left side is frozen. The heating parts under the hood, again glossed black, look like it's all there with electric wires attached for fan. Water hoses are hooked up.
Suggestions where to start?

[frank long island]

take it all out and work on a bench cables are most likely rusted along with the door ,controls may be able to salvage the motor with lube ck all wires for cracking the hoses under dash for defrost are a paper material most likely dried out and will crumble when you touch them. when I did my wagon I put a vintage air system in capped the duct work under the hood for blower with a 4 inch plumbing cap [rubber with a band clamp] moved the switch panel to radio hole left the original controls for outside air added a secret audio radio but I wasn't going for original you may be able to adapt your controls

[Jwawhite]

Frank, nice to meet a fellow Wagon owner!
Questions, is the Plenum part a box or is it just mounted to the firewall? No rear panel? The ductwork is new but the left side was not mounted along the firewall just under dash, it's hanging down just above and to the right of the brake pedal. The 1.5" outlet for the far left scoop is missing its hose and the opening is hanging downward. I think I may be able to do repairs with more information. Do you have an idea what the missing vacuum line does for that nipple? There is an inline fuse for the fan motor just off the switch. I will try to free up the cables first at the flaps of the duc work fenders engine compartment. Will raise the ends of the cables and spray penetrant. At the dash area will remove the switch work and check its function. What allows the water into the core? Does the vacuum nipple play a part?

[miker98038]

If you don't have a full set of manuals, try contacting the Hot Rod Reverend. He's got a full set on CD's. You could contact him and ask if it has exploded diagrams of the heater assembly. I didn't look him up here, but this link is from the yblocksforever site. He's moved, so don't use the address, but the email is probably still good.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/To....aspx#bm128250

[frank long island]

sorry its been a while and I do not have that car anymore as I said I removed it all you will get an answer on this site I f I remember the stuff under the hood on the firewall had hooks

[Dobie Gillis]

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The nipple is for the vacuum operated heater valve. They never worked all that well IMO and are made of unobtainium now.

[paul2748]

If you don't already have one, get a shop manual. That should have instructions and pictures of the heating system and how to remove it.

The plenum on the left side of the heater (paper part, is more than likely attached to the firewall by a bracket and sheet metal screw and some screws into the metal radiator cover. I am assuming it is the same as my 54 Ford.

I am also assuming the fan is located in the engine compartment. You can remove it and bench test it to see if it's working. New motors usually can be bought at your local parts store, be sure you get one that has the right rotation and the squirrel cage fits on the drive shaft.

[Jwawhite]

Originally Posted by Dobie Gillis

The nipple is for the vacuum operated heater valve. They never worked all that well IMO and are made of unobtainium now.

Thank you for responding. Zelda was a CA politician.......

That vacuum operated valve, was that valve used to allow the flow of radiator fluid into the core for heat? How does that work with the heater core? How to get around this?

I'd rather not tear out the system...

[Dobie Gillis]

Yup, the vacuum valve controlled water flow to the core, sort of a thermostatic set up. Most guys just install a manually operated valve controlled by a cable from the dash.

[Jwawhite]

Okay for a daily update, I do have a Ford Shop Manual. Today I was able to inspect the defrost ductwork. The 1.5" duct tube is missing and the larger ductwork is in good shape. I sprayed some penetrant at the one cable end, Air control Assy and I think it's working, at least the knob slides and one inner cable moves, will inspect engine compartment tomorrow. Not so fortunate in results for air control drivers side. Question, first of all the name of the wagon is "FrankenWagen" for it has a 5.0 motor and AOD, but rest is stock. Back to the question, the vacuum operated thermostat valve wouldn't matter if it did work or not for the heater hoses come off the motor directly to the heater core. So, I need to incorporate a flow restrict in the water line to core with a control inside cab. What direction does the water flow? Suggestions?

[Bob-93021]

JWA, When I added heat and defrost to my 56 Fairlane, that came without a heater, I used a cable operated water control valve to control water going to the heater box. See attached pix. These valves were used on many Fords. I have the same valve in my 1967 F-250. For input to your heater the hottest water is from the top of the manifold port.
I never did understand the vacuum controlled water control valve and the grasshopper vacuum thing in the heater box. The manuals will help you with the rest. Hope this helps - Bob

[Daves55Sedan]

There are four mechanical cables in the Magic-Aire system.
The top cable controls temperature. If you have the cheap system with the vacuum valve on the intake manifold, this cable connects to it. If you have the premium Magic-Aire system, this cable connects to a mechanical temperature control valve mounted on the firewall. The cable connects to the valve under the dash.
There are two middle cables. One controls the right aire vent and the other controls the defrost damper in the heater plenum.
the last cable controls the left aire vent (via a separate knob on the dashboard).
If these have not been well maintained through the years they can become corroded by the environment especially if the car is not garage kept.
Remove all the cables.
cleaning the rust off the outer spring housing using a bench grinder with a wire-wheel can be effective (but you must be careful to firmly hold the cable so as not to allow the wire wheel to kink the housing). If you kink it, it will be nearly impossible to restore and the kink will cause rapid wearing of the inner cable, lubrication or not). CAUTION.
Once the cable housings are cleaned, wipe down with acetone and let dry, then use a light spray of cold galvanizing compound on the housings.
Pull the inner cable out of the housing and inspect. Remove surface rust with very fine sandpaper or fine steel wool. Coat the inner cable generously with lubriplate.
I recommend hanging the cable on a clothesline and squirting 3-in-1 oil down the end of the outer cable housing until it gets to the other end. Then shove the inner cable into the housing.
In some cases where pitted rust has invaded the INNER cable (particularly where the cable exits the housing under the fenders), it often cannot be salvaged and the whole cable must be replaced.
Some of the popular resto parts suppliers offer replacement cables, but they are not exactly like originals (made of smaller guage wire and spring) but they will work.
If you do need to buy new cables, LUBRICATE them before installing.

[Daves55Sedan]

If the "fast-heat" door on the heater plenum is frozen, do not attempt to force the door as this may tend to bend the hinge rivet mounting tabs.
I recommend removing the plenum and scrubbing it with paint remover, then use WD-40 on the door hinge rivet-pins. carefully free-up the door movement.
wash the entire plenum off with cheap laquer thinner. Primer and paint black.
Many resto parts suppliers offer wrinkle finish flat blank paint in spray cans. You need to be prepared to place the part in an oven immediately after spraying the part in order to get the wrinkle finish.
after paint is dry, squirt a drop of 3-in-1 oil on the hinges and work the oil in on both sides with your finger.

[Daves55Sedan]

If you can't get the original motor working, you can buy a new replacement motor, but they are only single-speed and it is s l o w w w w. You can barely feel anything come out of the defroster boots with those motors.
Option 2 is to get the old motor rebuilt. often all they need is a good cleaning, new bronze shaft bushings and new motor leads. Some of the resto parts suppliers off motor rebuilding but it is expensive.
Option 3 is to find a 1970's era Ford Grenada heater motor. Use your original round mounting plate and your squirrelcage.

[Kahuna]

I'm going thru this exercise right now, with missing parts, etc.
In your case, because you have a 302 engine, you will need a
cable operated valve as mentioned earlier. This will allow you
to control the heat, maybe, to some degree.
The defroster duct (1 1/2") diameter is available at NAPA stores
and others.
The lower air plenum that attaches to the heater box (inside) is
available, but a bit expensive at $125.00.
The heater control valve is available from time to time on Ebay.
Costs range from 50 to 200 bucks (ouch).
You might try a junk yard for the heater Motor.
Good luck
Jim

[Bob-93021]

Here is a cable operated water control valve from AutoZone - $23

Not sure how to attach pix here? - Bob

http://www.autozone.com/cooling-heat...?checkfit=true

[Old2New]

I hate these vacuum controlled heater units. In my galaxie I ended up just using bailing wire to temporarily wire everything in defrost mode and dash heat only. At least it makes it drivable. In a bind you could probably do the same for now. I was a farm boy and we learned to work with what we have hehe

[Jwawhite]

Bob, big thanks for info on new valve, I'll run a new cable to it from the dash....will give it some thought about location when my list comes to it.

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by Bob-93021

.....
Not sure how to attach pix here? - Bob
.....

Posting photos ?
When you're creating a comment or post look just below the bottom of the text box you're typing into.
If there's a "Go Advanced" button click that for the 'advanced' functions. One of which is a paperclip image icon/button at the top of the new text box. (it's just to the right of the smiley face button)
Clicking the paperclip icon opens a 'manage attachments' / 'browse' pop-up box to select & add photos as an attachment. If the photo file size is too large you may get a error, and need to reduce the size of the photo.

There is a way to add photos directly into the text / body of a post but so far it's smarter than I am.