The Ford Barn

RB · 09-04-2012, 03:41 PM

I'm finishing up a 40's era build on a 32 original v-8 chassis (8BA engine) with parts at hand for either 6 volt or 12 volt system. I already have new headlamps/tailamps & are provided with the correct pigtails. An original steering column will be used with the pass through harness. I would like to order the chassis wiring as listed. Headlight harness #18-11647, dash harness #18-14401, cowl lamp crossover wiring #B-14426, & tailight crossover wiring #B-144424 These are Drake part numbers, would appreciate input pros/cons of these items. Am I correct to assume these three units will complete the chassis wiring as required ? I'm aware that the gages /bulbs will need to be addressed if a 12 volt system is used, the engine plug wires & harness will come at a later date. Thanks,Ron

solidaxle · 05-20-2013, 04:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RB

I'm finishing up a 40's era build on a 32 original v-8 chassis (8BA engine) with parts at hand for either 6 volt or 12 volt system. I already have new headlamps/tailamps & are provided with the correct pigtails. An original steering column will be used with the pass through harness. I would like to order the chassis wiring as listed. Headlight harness #18-11647, dash harness #18-14401, cowl lamp crossover wiring #B-14426, & tailight crossover wiring #B-144424 These are Drake part numbers, would appreciate input pros/cons of these items. Am I correct to assume these three units will complete the chassis wiring as required ? I'm aware that the gages /bulbs will need to be addressed if a 12 volt system is used, the engine plug wires & harness will come at a later date. Thanks,Ron

How did you make out? I'm doing the same with my car with the 8ba

DavidG · 05-20-2013, 06:34 PM

Depending on where you locate your ignition coil, the red wire at the end of the 18-14401 harness may not be long enough to reach the coil terminal. The 18-14401 harness was designed to be used with a tubular conduit for it and the spark plug wires on the left side of the intake manifold and a distributor/coil assembly located in lower center of the front of the engine, not one located at the upper right front corner.

jim1932 · 05-21-2013, 06:52 AM

If you use someone like Tyree Harris, who makes his own harness, you may be able to get it modified to fit while still looking stock.

32phil · 05-21-2013, 08:51 AM

I did the same thing on my roadster a few years ago. I have Reds headers and I found they interfere with switch body attached to the steering box. I bought a bunch of early fabric covered wire and made up a main lighting harness that looked much like the original. The headlight switch is now in the bottom center hole of the repro stainless dash oval. I also used some repro harness sections as well. I used the original speedometer and new Stewart Warner winged gauges (bat &temp). I put the other two gauges(gas&oil) on a small panel on the bottom of the das left side. It all looks like an original car modified in the early fifties........SURPRISE !!!!! That's exactly what I was looking for.

ct1932ford · 05-21-2013, 10:10 AM

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Mine is 12V and I used Sacramento Vintage Ford cloth covered wire. I have Reds Headers and they did clear the switch body that attached to the steering box. I only used that for the horn. I used a light switch in the throttle rod hole and change the knob to original type. Hear are my wire diagrams that I did for my build. Also I am running a pertronix in my crab dist. As you can see mine is an early type build. Also my headlight switch has a position for high beams so no switch on floor!

solidaxle · 05-22-2013, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ct1932ford

Mine is 12V and I used Sacramento Vintage Ford cloth covered wire. I have Reds Headers and they did clear the switch body that attached to the steering box. I only used that for the horn. I used a light switch in the throttle rod hole and change the knob to original type. Hear are my wire diagrams that I did for my build. Also I am running a pertronix in my crab dist. As you can see mine is an early type build. Also my headlight switch has a position for high beams so no switch on floor!

If I may ask. Your first diagram shows two lamps in the tail lights. Does the brake filament wash out the directional? How did you run the third wire to the rear? Is it in the same casing or separate?

ct1932ford · 05-22-2013, 03:10 PM

One bulb duel filament Bakes / Signal. The other bulb taillights separated by a flange in the taillight stock 32 type taillights. Wires to the rear in same loom.

solidaxle · 05-22-2013, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ct1932ford

One bulb duel filament Bakes / Signal. The other bulb taillights separated by a flange in the taillight stock 32 type taillights. Wires to the rear in same loom.

I like the divider idea. The loom with the third wire, did you make it yourself?

ct1932ford · 05-22-2013, 05:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by solidaxle

I like the divider idea. The loom with the third wire, did you make it yourself?

Yes I used Sacramento Vintage Fords braided wire & loom that comes in many sizes to take as many wires as needed.

solidaxle · 05-23-2013, 08:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ct1932ford

Yes I used Sacramento Vintage Fords braided wire & loom that comes in many sizes to take as many wires as needed.

I checked their selection, looks nice. Did you buy the $329.00 kit or individual pieces?
Since you have the stock column drop, did you use the steering tube wiring channel? I see a turn signal lever in your dash picture with external wiring, I'm curious how you tied them in to the main harness.

I apologize to RB for highjacking his thread.

ct1932ford · 05-23-2013, 08:42 AM

I bought the kit but would most likely buy the individual pieces if I did it again.
Used the steering column for the horn wire only since I ran a light switch on the dash. Turn signal wires run outside of column to under dash.

solidaxle · 05-23-2013, 12:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ct1932ford

I bought the kit but would most likely buy the individual pieces if I did it again.
Used the steering column for the horn wire only since I ran a light switch on the dash. Turn signal wires run outside of column to under dash.

Thanks CT

My goal is to do a authentic looking build also and I'm the type of guy who take it all apart and start over if I don't like it. (but I'm getting better). If you could answer a couple of more Q's I'd appreciate it.

Where did you mount
-The battery?
-The cut off sw?
-The start relay?
-Fuse panel?

If you were to do it again (If you're like me). What would you change?

ct1932ford · 05-23-2013, 02:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by solidaxle

Thanks CT

My goal is to do a authentic looking build also and I'm the type of guy who take it all apart and start over if I don't like it. (but I'm getting better). If you could answer a couple of more Q's I'd appreciate it.

Where did you mount
-The battery?
-The cut off sw?
-The start relay?
-Fuse panel?

If you were to do it again (If you're like me). What would you change?

I will let the pictures tell most of what you asked! Fuse panel under dash back of firewall. I'm pretty happy with the way it came out. That Odyssey battery is great. # PC680 mounts in just about any position. As you can see mounts under stock seat and kill switch is right there.

solidaxle · 05-23-2013, 03:39 PM

Thanks CT. I like your engine compartment.

RB · 10-04-2015, 09:45 AM

Thanks, to all who responded & no you didn't high jack the posting solid axle, so no apologies are required as I value all input as a learning experience. My flathead has yet to mate with the chassis & only a brief start up on the engine stand. Ron

Bruce Lancaster · 10-05-2015, 02:43 PM

A wiring piece you might like if switching to a regulated 2 brush 6 or 12 volt generator is the 1941 11A generator wiring harness...I think it (and the 6 cylinder equivalent) are the only production Ford ones that are fully separate from bigger harnesses. They contain only the 3 generator wires and I think the primary ignition lead, and so are a neat conversion part.

ct1932ford · 10-06-2015, 01:05 AM

That is a one wire Alternator in the gen. case. Cut out wires are fake.

Bored&Stroked · 10-06-2015, 08:00 AM

Keep in mind that there are two different front wiring harnesses for the head lights - depending on whether you have cowl lights or not. I ordered the 18-11647 Drake wiring harness and it was for a standard model without cowl lights - so it was wrong for my car. The Drake website only has the one harness and they don't mention the application - so I found out the hard way. You need the 18-11646 harness if you have cowl lights and NOT the dual-lamp headlights.

I have replaced my entire wiring system with reproduction 1932 stuff . . . everything just plugged in and worked the first time - was very pleased.

I did make a few little mods under the dash - to turn my steering column on/off switch into a magneto kill switch - but I can put it back to 'stock' if needed.

05-20-2013, 06:34 PM	#3
DavidG Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: southeastern Michigan Posts: 10,104	Re: 1932 original wiring Depending on where you locate your ignition coil, the red wire at the end of the 18-14401 harness may not be long enough to reach the coil terminal. The 18-14401 harness was designed to be used with a tubular conduit for it and the spark plug wires on the left side of the intake manifold and a distributor/coil assembly located in lower center of the front of the engine, not one located at the upper right front corner.

05-21-2013, 06:52 AM	#4
jim1932 Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Hancock, MA Posts: 2,786	Re: 1932 original wiring If you use someone like Tyree Harris, who makes his own harness, you may be able to get it modified to fit while still looking stock. __________________ Short URL: http://smu.gs/14g7eDW

05-21-2013, 08:51 AM	#5
32phil Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Montgomery, NY & Port St. Lucie Florida Posts: 936	Re: 1932 original wiring I did the same thing on my roadster a few years ago. I have Reds headers and I found they interfere with switch body attached to the steering box. I bought a bunch of early fabric covered wire and made up a main lighting harness that looked much like the original. The headlight switch is now in the bottom center hole of the repro stainless dash oval. I also used some repro harness sections as well. I used the original speedometer and new Stewart Warner winged gauges (bat &temp). I put the other two gauges(gas&oil) on a small panel on the bottom of the das left side. It all looks like an original car modified in the early fifties........SURPRISE !!!!! That's exactly what I was looking for. __________________ Early Ford Lock & Key Service https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46583

05-22-2013, 03:10 PM	#8
ct1932ford Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: CT. Posts: 596	Re: 1932 original wiring One bulb duel filament Bakes / Signal. The other bulb taillights separated by a flange in the taillight stock 32 type taillights. Wires to the rear in same loom.

05-23-2013, 08:42 AM	#12
ct1932ford Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: CT. Posts: 596	Re: 1932 original wiring I bought the kit but would most likely buy the individual pieces if I did it again. Used the steering column for the horn wire only since I ran a light switch on the dash. Turn signal wires run outside of column to under dash.

09-04-2012, 03:41 PM	#1
RB Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: papillion nebraska Posts: 406	1932 original wiring I'm finishing up a 40's era build on a 32 original v-8 chassis (8BA engine) with parts at hand for either 6 volt or 12 volt system. I already have new headlamps/tailamps & are provided with the correct pigtails. An original steering column will be used with the pass through harness. I would like to order the chassis wiring as listed. Headlight harness #18-11647, dash harness #18-14401, cowl lamp crossover wiring #B-14426, & tailight crossover wiring #B-144424 These are Drake part numbers, would appreciate input pros/cons of these items. Am I correct to assume these three units will complete the chassis wiring as required ? I'm aware that the gages /bulbs will need to be addressed if a 12 volt system is used, the engine plug wires & harness will come at a later date. Thanks,Ron

05-23-2013, 03:39 PM	#15
solidaxle Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: upstate NY Posts: 478	Re: 1932 original wiring Thanks CT. I like your engine compartment.

10-04-2015, 09:45 AM	#16
RB Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: papillion nebraska Posts: 406	Re: 1932 original wiring Thanks, to all who responded & no you didn't high jack the posting solid axle, so no apologies are required as I value all input as a learning experience. My flathead has yet to mate with the chassis & only a brief start up on the engine stand. Ron

10-05-2015, 02:43 PM	#17
Bruce Lancaster Member Emeritus Join Date: May 2010 Location: Madison, NJ Posts: 5,230	Re: 1932 original wiring A wiring piece you might like if switching to a regulated 2 brush 6 or 12 volt generator is the 1941 11A generator wiring harness...I think it (and the 6 cylinder equivalent) are the only production Ford ones that are fully separate from bigger harnesses. They contain only the 3 generator wires and I think the primary ignition lead, and so are a neat conversion part.

10-06-2015, 01:05 AM	#18
ct1932ford Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: CT. Posts: 596	Re: 1932 original wiring That is a one wire Alternator in the gen. case. Cut out wires are fake. __________________ A man should do what he thinks best! "The Duke"

10-06-2015, 08:00 AM	#19
Bored&Stroked Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Central Ohio Posts: 5,073	Re: 1932 original wiring Keep in mind that there are two different front wiring harnesses for the head lights - depending on whether you have cowl lights or not. I ordered the 18-11647 Drake wiring harness and it was for a standard model without cowl lights - so it was wrong for my car. The Drake website only has the one harness and they don't mention the application - so I found out the hard way. You need the 18-11646 harness if you have cowl lights and NOT the dual-lamp headlights. I have replaced my entire wiring system with reproduction 1932 stuff . . . everything just plugged in and worked the first time - was very pleased. I did make a few little mods under the dash - to turn my steering column on/off switch into a magneto kill switch - but I can put it back to 'stock' if needed.