09-16-2011, 12:35 PM | #121 |
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Re: 1937 No start
I have a 68-12116 inner cap in front of me.
When the cap is held with the index mark up and looking at the side where the wires are plugged, 1 is top left, 3 is top right, 2 is bottom right and 4 is bottom left. When the cap is held with the index down, 8 is top left, 7 is top right, 6 is bottom right and 5 is bottom left. The diagram has the correct rotation, but 1 is oriented wrong, the drawing has the index for the passenger side at the point closest to the rotor and the drivers side has the index away from the rotor. The earlier distributor caps have the same orientation and the difference is in the front to back distance. The rotor is still at the 11 o'clock position when the tang is at the 11 o'clock position. If the earlier rotor is used with the later caps, the rotor would not line up with the cap contacts. The same goes for the earlier caps with the later rotor. This can easily be diagnosed by removing the coil and observing the rotor to cap contact alignment.
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09-16-2011, 06:50 PM | #122 |
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Re: 1937 No start
I see on Macs the cap has notch on Pass up,and drivers side down.The caps he is showing is the same as you have written.
Now with your info sounds like early rotor ,with later caps. Macs caps are numbered. I guess were all trained now. |
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09-16-2011, 06:57 PM | #123 |
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Re: 1937 No start
bypass your resister , i did and my flatty runs great for a 6 volt
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09-16-2011, 07:42 PM | #124 |
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Re: 1937 No start
Does he know the diff. between early and later rotors. FHI early rotors have NO steps and very wide blade contacts like 3/8" wide blade and the later one has steps and a narrow blades like 1/8" wide. ken ct.
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09-16-2011, 08:19 PM | #125 |
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Re: 1937 No start
Big Mike,
You are passing on bad information to bypass the resistor. How many miles have you driven your "flatty" to prove your statement? 10 miles? Big John |
09-17-2011, 07:15 AM | #126 |
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Re: 1937 No start
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09-17-2011, 07:38 AM | #127 |
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Re: 1937 No start
BIG JOHN your Pretty smart thier kid , YES my Coil is fine, and I have bypassed my resistor for the last 7 years NO Burn outs, and to prove my miles statmen about 20 miles so far
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09-17-2011, 10:45 AM | #128 |
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Re: 1937 No start
Big Mike, are you using a round modern coil or an original style coil?
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09-17-2011, 01:57 PM | #129 |
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Re: 1937 No start
original helmet style coil
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09-17-2011, 04:41 PM | #130 |
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Re: 1937 No start
It's not the coil that will burn out running but the points will arc. The coil will burn out in a shorter time if the switch is left on and the points are closed with no resistor. G.M.
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09-17-2011, 04:43 PM | #131 |
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Re: 1937 No start
Mike this looks like your posts before new radiator. G.M.
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09-17-2011, 05:58 PM | #132 |
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Re: 1937 No start
C'mon guys, Big Mike has proven his point. He has run 20 miles without burning his points without a resistor. He is one sharp engine mechanic.
John |
09-17-2011, 06:13 PM | #133 |
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Re: 1937 No start
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09-17-2011, 06:47 PM | #134 |
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Re: 1937 No start
Hey Big John or should I call you Mr. Little as in Little you know about anything, Thats Right KEN they put me in the same Forum as YOU were ALL equel here HOMIE!
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09-17-2011, 06:49 PM | #135 |
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Re: 1937 No start
Yes GM looks like my posts, But its true I haven't had a problem on 7 years on my resister bypass , coil is cool when the engine USTA overheat, points I chaged 3 years ago inpected them last year Alls Good mate!
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09-17-2011, 06:54 PM | #136 |
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Re: 1937 No start
Sum of these knucklheads think everything is the same Totally differant operation in driving a Flatty Car apposed to a Flatty tank.
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09-17-2011, 06:58 PM | #137 |
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Re: 1937 No start
Is the a miltary coil and see if it measures 6 volt at coil.
That would tell,if you have a resister some where. |
09-17-2011, 08:11 PM | #138 |
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Re: 1937 No start
MIke you and your freakin tank smell like crap. Johns forgot more than you will ever know. Why dont you sign up for the army or something and take your bren carrier with you. You can go chase the Tali-Ban in the mountins. lol ken ct.
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09-19-2011, 03:33 PM | #139 |
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Re: 1937 No start
OK , been busy but got the distributor on the machine with the new coil attached , keep in mind i do not have the cap halfs or the condensor.
It ran with even firing pulses and the coil checks right on the money. The only thing i seen at all was some residue of some kind on the coil output terminal that wiped off with a rag and didnt seem to have any effect when i tested the coil . SO whats next ? I have the unit entirely torn down and will redo the entire process and post the pics as we go for a good on line discussion..... So hang on here we go.... |
09-19-2011, 05:24 PM | #140 |
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Re: 1937 No start
Bubba
You have the dist,You are the man,Is there any thing wrong with the rotor when its locked in is the drive slot in line with innner rotor.Looks like the drive slot in rotor is deep in side and could be made wrong.In changing the wires wouldn,t be the first time they got missed up. Note Those caps and interchangeable and if wired at the comfort of your bench,and grabbed both at same time you have a 50/50 chance of getting the right set on the correct side. Last edited by George/Maine; 09-19-2011 at 09:33 PM. |
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