Visor leaking

[Brianfrench65]

My precious A got caught in the rain. I have a serious leak, where the visor meets up with the roof. The water just came down on the wood grained dash rail, from the hinge area of the windshield. The car is painted and shiny.

Any suggestions?

I did not want to use bathtub caulk, that will turn brown with UV.

[hangarb7]

bath tub caulk! good heavens! Don't ever use an indoor product on a car.

And don't use silicon either.

Go to a building supply (probably not home depot or lowes) and get a black urethane caulk. Contractors use it to set steel doors into brick buildings, etc. It remains SUPER flexible, holds tight and looks really nice. I used it around the rubber on my rear Tudor window where the body is flexed and there were tiny gaps between the body and the window rubber.

As with any caulking, you must 'work' the caulk to make a good seal. I use a small baby food spoon. This will ensure the caulk makes a connection to existing materials, otherwise when the caulk shrinks it will pull away and leave a gap.

Actually, Lowes does carry a version...
http://www.lowes.com/pd_68457-69-161...ductId=3562722

Good luck,
JackD

[Brianfrench65]

What about:

CAPTAIN TOLLEYS Epoxy Resin
Crack Cure Sealant, from West Marine?


Excellent for sealing hairline cracks in gelcoat
This penetrating copolymer sealant is formulated to be so thin that by using capillary action it can find its way inside fine cracks and set to a clear, flexible seal. Use on wood, rubber, glass, metals, fiberglass, Lexan, ceramic and concrete.
Formulation: One-part water-based acrylic polymer sealant
Recommended Usage: Fixing leaks in wood, rubber, glass, metal, ceramics, and other materials
Penetrates fine cracks
Coverage: Apply every 20 min. until saturated
Drying: Complete cure in 24 hrs or less

Any thoughts or comments?

[Bob C]

Shouldn't there be a piece of molding covering that area??

Bob

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by Bob C

Shouldn't there be a piece of molding covering that area??

Bob

i was wondering that also..

[Brianfrench65]

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Anyone out there, with a 30 Briggs 4 door, that can comment, or even show a picture?

Any information will be very much appreciated.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

Caulking can be smoothed nicely, with a WET forefinger.
Bill W.

[Bob C]

This is a picture Marco has on his site. http://www.abarnyard.com/fordor/roof.htm

Bob

[Mitch//pa]

the JS bible page 9-2
briggs 4 door should have a 5/8 wide aluminum roof moulding..
i would seal up the gap (urethane is a good choice) and install the proper molding over it..
here it is from snyders but they all carry it.. nails down then folds over flat with a rubber mallet and or block of wood

[160B]

I have used a product obtained from our local ACE Hardware store. It is labeled "Big Stretch". It cleans up with water so it is easy to work into an area and then use a wet sponge to clean the area up before it dries. Allow to dry 24 hr.’s before exposure to water

[Brianfrench65]

I do have that molding, I just think I need a good sealant, and I will have solved the leak. Thank you all for your input and suggestions. I do appreciate the help.

[Brentwood Bob]

duplicate the picture in #8 so we can all learn from your bad experience.I see you just did as I was typing.
Bob

[Tom Wesenberg]

The first time I installed that aluminum molding I messed up by not predrilling the nail holes in a new oak header. A few nails bent over before they were driven all the way home, and I figured the aluminum would fold over them OK. It didn't and those few bumps stuck out like a sore thumb, so I had to start over with a new aluminum, and predrill the holes as I went along.

[Mitch//pa]

Hi Brian
Your first sideways pic looks like the molding is missing so it through a couple of us off, along with your # 6 response of what is supossed to be there. You'll be tearing things apart to seal it up properly plus messing with the painted moulding, roof material etc. mucking it on the outside won't look good at all and prob won't work. My advice is to stay out of the rain. Good luck on your desired path.

Tom good thought I also pre drill all my holes with new wood on all the mouldings gutters etc. I use a smaller bit then the nail plus I don't go the full depth maybe about half of the nail length to still let it have gripping strength.

[Brianfrench65]

Thank you all. Very good advise.

I don't want a silicone yellow streak across my roof. I also do not want to tear into my roof and all of that shiny paint.

The entire roof wood including the header appears to be original.