The Ford Barn

PeterBo · 08-03-2016, 10:55 PM

I had to take the radiator out of my 1929 Phaeton to solder up a small leak in one of the top pipe joints. In preparation for replacing the radiator after fixing, I bought two new radiator mounting springs from Snyders as those that were there originally appeared to have previously been cut to reduce their height. When I replaced the radiator I then inserted the mounting bolt through the body frame with rubber/washer below, steel washer above frame then spring, then radiator mounting, then spring washer, then castle nut. all fitted OK on both left and right sides, but I found I had to screw down the mounting nut until the spring had virtually no extension. If I didn't do this and left some 'spring travel' in the springs, the bonnet sides would be out of alignment as the radiator was then too high.

The question is, how much travel and extension should be available to the radiator springs? At the moment, there seems to be virtually no movement and so no allowance for frame flex or radiator movement.

Tom Wesenberg · 08-03-2016, 11:01 PM

The head of the bolts should be the only thing below the crossmember. Then you install the pad, then the radiator, then the spring and castle nut. The spring must fit on top of the radiator mount. This allows for flex when the frame twists going over an uneven surface.

700rpm · 08-03-2016, 11:06 PM

Remove the washers.

PeterBo · 08-03-2016, 11:12 PM

Tom - Many thanks for your comment. This means that the order of placing washers/springs was incorrect when I bought the car 8 months ago!! This also means that the bonnet alignment will be fine. My thinking was that the springs protect the radiator from shocks transferred through the frame. Having the springs above the radiator mounts would allow for frame flex but not shocks.

Are these shocks not considered a problem?

Tom Wesenberg · 08-04-2016, 12:01 AM

You should have a pad between the frame and radiator mount. My original 19928 pads are made from compressed brake lining. I've read that leather or reinforced rubber can also be used. Mine are about 1/8" thick.

zzlegend · 08-04-2016, 07:31 AM

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Just curious. How did the hood and radiator alignment look originally with the cut down springs under the radiator pads? Seems like that radiator must have sat way to high.

08-03-2016, 10:55 PM	#1
PeterBo Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Crackenback, NSW, Australia Posts: 25	Radiator Spring Tension I had to take the radiator out of my 1929 Phaeton to solder up a small leak in one of the top pipe joints. In preparation for replacing the radiator after fixing, I bought two new radiator mounting springs from Snyders as those that were there originally appeared to have previously been cut to reduce their height. When I replaced the radiator I then inserted the mounting bolt through the body frame with rubber/washer below, steel washer above frame then spring, then radiator mounting, then spring washer, then castle nut. all fitted OK on both left and right sides, but I found I had to screw down the mounting nut until the spring had virtually no extension. If I didn't do this and left some 'spring travel' in the springs, the bonnet sides would be out of alignment as the radiator was then too high. The question is, how much travel and extension should be available to the radiator springs? At the moment, there seems to be virtually no movement and so no allowance for frame flex or radiator movement.

08-03-2016, 11:01 PM	#2
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Radiator Spring Tension The head of the bolts should be the only thing below the crossmember. Then you install the pad, then the radiator, then the spring and castle nut. The spring must fit on top of the radiator mount. This allows for flex when the frame twists going over an uneven surface.

08-03-2016, 11:06 PM	#3
700rpm Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Portland, Oregon Posts: 5,906	Re: Radiator Spring Tension Remove the washers. __________________ Ray Horton, Portland, OR As you go through life, keep your eye on the donut, not the hole.

08-03-2016, 11:12 PM	#4
PeterBo Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2016 Location: Crackenback, NSW, Australia Posts: 25	Re: Radiator Spring Tension Tom - Many thanks for your comment. This means that the order of placing washers/springs was incorrect when I bought the car 8 months ago!! This also means that the bonnet alignment will be fine. My thinking was that the springs protect the radiator from shocks transferred through the frame. Having the springs above the radiator mounts would allow for frame flex but not shocks. Are these shocks not considered a problem?

08-04-2016, 12:01 AM	#5
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Radiator Spring Tension You should have a pad between the frame and radiator mount. My original 19928 pads are made from compressed brake lining. I've read that leather or reinforced rubber can also be used. Mine are about 1/8" thick.

08-04-2016, 07:31 AM	#6
zzlegend Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Reseda, Calif. Posts: 2,188	Re: Radiator Spring Tension Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Just curious. How did the hood and radiator alignment look originally with the cut down springs under the radiator pads? Seems like that radiator must have sat way to high.