manifold studs

[rob63mess]

Rather than try to make do with the old exhaust manifold....I purchased a new one from Snyders. When removing the old manifold, the studs came out with the manifold nuts. I bought new studs and washers for the install....My question is, do I want to use lock tight one the studs when I put them in the motor or just double nut them and tighten the up?
Thanks Rob

[Tom Wesenberg]

Just snug th studs in the block.

I would also mention that the concave side of the washer faces the block, but that wasn't asked, so I won't mention it.

[rob63mess]

Thanks Tom...you are more than welcome to mention any advice on my threads...do you torque the manifold nuts?

[Purdy Swoft]

Like Tom says. I only use anti seize on the coarse threads that enter the block. No need for lock tight. I only use a 3/8 ratchet and 11/16 socket to tighen the manifold nuts working from the inside out. I just tighten with common sense and never torque manifold nuts. After a few heat cycles you will need to retighten and contintinue to do this untill the nuts settle down and hold reasonable tightness. Its very easy to warp the manifold and over tightening is the main cause. The outer ends of the exhaust manifold usually warps from over tightening because there is no nuts on the outer ends and they like to twist .

[rob63mess]

Purdy.....that appears to be what happened on the old manifold I took off..not to mention that one of the bolts that hold the intake to the exhaust manifold looks like it was snapped 50 years ago. Just figured I'd start with a fresh one.

[tbirdtbird]

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many of us use a torque spec of 35 ft-lbs. as Purdy says, do not overtighten; that manifold has to move around with temp swings

[Purdy Swoft]

I have torqued a few to 55 ft. lbs. but every one was found to be warped the next time that i needed to take them off.