Install disconnect between 1 and 2, or 3 and 4?

[30 Closed Cab PU]

Originally Posted by Badpuppy

Yes you can.

You need the heavy cables only between battery and starter (both hot and ground). For the rest of the system only a 12 AWG wire to the frame is required, but it's usually already common with the starter ground. Where is this other ground wire going?

This is based on what I have read. May try it in the future.


I do not personally run 2 grounds - One goes to the frame, the second one I think is installed to a transmission bolt. That way the starter does not have to rely on multiple mechanical joints ground path to get back to the battery.


From what I have read this is handy especially on 6 v systems. The starter turns the motor over faster with having a better ground path back to the battery.


A way to check for this is to measure the ground voltage drop from the battery ground post to the starter frame, with ignition off and engaging the starter. I do not remember what values are acceptable and what readings are not acceptable.

[Badpuppy]

I believe the way it's usually done is to simply add a cable from the existing frame connection point to the trans. Regardless, adding the switch on the ground side is simply a matter of swinging the battery ground cable off the frame to a switch post and adding a cable between the other post and that original frame grounding point.

[30 Closed Cab PU]

I agree typically it is done from the frame, but have seen some who like to come off the battery post, just saying.

[rotorwrench]

Removing the ground path from the battery will have less tendency to create a spark. The spark or terminal arcing will erode the contacts of a switch over time. The more erosion, the more resistance to flow is created. Resistance depletes the capacity of a system depending on how much resistance there is. Resistance also creates heat.

I think this is why many folks suggest a ground disconnect rather than a power disconnect. Either will work but one may be more reliable than the other over the long haul.

[Smooth_One]

I mounted mine on the starter bolt and ran wires back to the pos ground on the battery but I think most of you hated how I did it? lol

[M2M]

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Thanks guys, I'll use at least 1/0 AWG from 6v battery + terminal to switch then switch to ground. And from there maybe run another cable to a tranny bolt.


A new question. If you use a really thick cable, like AWG 3/0 or 4/0 from 6v battery - terminal to the starter would that give the starter more power?
Or would it an extreme wire cause a problem like blowing the fuse on the starter?

This is AWG 4/0, it's $7.50 a foot on ebay:

[30 Closed Cab PU]

The starter is not fused. If you pull that fuse, the starter still works.


So if you ever get into a situation where the starter is working but the engine will not fire, turn on your dash light. If it does not work, you probably have a blown fuse.


Another check is to check your ammeter when running the starter, ammeter should wiggle with the points opening and closing. If does not wiggle, possible fuse is blown, but no wiggle can be other issues too.

[Werner]

Good morning, you can take a very thick cable. I made this on my traction too with a cable as thick as a thumb. (The starter is comparable.) The starter motor then runs a bit faster at first, because the resistance is a touch less. But the advantage is not worthwhile.

The main resistance arises in the starter switch, which you step with the foot. The contact surfaces erodes very quickly and the speed is getting more and more tired. This also applies to the collector surface.

It should also be remembered that such a very thick cable is difficult to solder and particularly large terminal-shoes belong to it.

I've learned that it's important for good cranking speed to smoothly sand and polish every 6000 ml of the starter footswitch surface.

[katy]

Removing the ground path from the battery will have less tendency to create a spark. The spark or terminal arcing will erode the contacts of a switch over time.

That's only true if there is a load on the switch. If everything else is turned off there is no current flow and therefore no spark or arcing of the contacts of the switch.

[Badpuppy]

The larger the cable, the harder it is to bend and form into position. There is not a great advantage to using anything larger than #1.

Fuses are blown by current. Cables don't produce current, they just carry it.

[1931 flamingo]

Some people go to a welding supply company and buy cable there. FWIW
Paul in CT

[rotorwrench]

A larger conductor cable will allow more current flow due to less resistance but there is a point where there is no further advantage to making it any larger a gauge. If all it has to carry is a known value of amperage and the cable run distance is known then the cable gauge can be matched to that value for an efficient circuit. Anything larger gauge is overkill. Anything less will eventually be trouble.

[katy]

The larger the cable, the harder it is to bend and form into position.

Other factors that affect the ability to bend a cable include the stranding, whether the copper is hard drawn or annealed and also the composition of the insulation.