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Old 11-28-2017, 07:17 AM   #1
rer_239
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Default differential part 2

can the bearings on the carrier assy of the differential be removed (to shim them out) without ruining the bearings?
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Old 11-28-2017, 08:34 AM   #2
Dave in MN
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Default Re: differential part 2

Yes, using a bearing splitter and a press will remove them without damage.
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Old 11-28-2017, 09:22 AM   #3
Bob Bidonde
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Default Re: differential part 2

Use a controlled force type puller. These usually have a screw to apply the force.

Do not use any kind of impact puller such as a slide hammer.
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Old 11-28-2017, 09:28 AM   #4
larrys40
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Default Re: differential part 2

Quote:
Originally Posted by rer_239 View Post
can the bearings on the carrier assy of the differential be removed (to shim them out) without ruining the bearings?

Why do you ask? Is the carrier to loose with no gaskets and everything installed? I have done over 150+ rear axles and have only had one instance where I wanted to shim the race if everything else is correct. I believe replaced the axle housing instead.

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Old 11-28-2017, 10:41 AM   #5
Great Lakes Greg
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Default Re: differential part 2

I've had to clean up the surface where the bearing spun on the carrier. I had the carrier knurled to give the surface some bite for the new bearing and put a few shims behind the bearing to get it back where I thought it should be. I guess I lucked out, it all set up nice with banjo gaskets after that.
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Old 11-28-2017, 10:59 AM   #6
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Default Re: differential part 2

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I have the carrier assy, and ring & pinion gear (no axle s or spider gears with 1gasket on each side and the gear s click when turning the drive shaft. Does that mean the gear s should be closer together?
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Old 11-28-2017, 11:33 AM   #7
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Default Re: differential part 2

How much backlash do you have?

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Old 11-28-2017, 11:53 AM   #8
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Default Re: differential part 2

I make shims to go behind the cup rather then the bearing. I would rather pull the cup.
Re clicking, we have a dial indicator mounted on the piece of angle iron that I mount to the front. Set the probe on one of the corners of the pinion nuts flats. While this might not be HI-Teck it sure get the job done.
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Old 11-28-2017, 11:58 AM   #9
Dave in MN
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Default Re: differential part 2

I went back and read questions in the earlier "Differential Woes" post; I (and others) are not sure if you are following the necessary steps to properly set the carrier assembly and pinion bearing preload. These preloads are very important to obtain before you study the gear tooth engagement/mesh. I have attached two tech articles by Tom Endy for you to study.

http://www.santaanitaas.org/wp-conte...vised-2014.pdf

http://www.santaanitaas.org/wp-conte...orial-2015.pdf

If we are to help you, we need to know that you have properly prepared for checking the gear mesh. Let us know if you followed the procedures described in Tom's articles. I know it appears to be lots of work when studying Tom's method but it is the only way to achieve a properly setup differential. I do lots of these assemblies and I find it takes me from 6-8 hours assembly time to get it perfect. (I also have good tooling to do the work and that is half the battle...)

Good Day!

Last edited by Dave in MN; 11-30-2017 at 09:43 AM.
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Old 11-28-2017, 03:49 PM   #10
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Default Re: differential part 2

Apparently not following the established order because shims were installed on carrier before setting preload on carrier. Now pinion is installed and still setting carrier preload. You might need shims but the only way to know is stacking up the paper gaskets without shims to find what it takes to get preload without pinion.
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Old 11-28-2017, 08:00 PM   #11
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Default Re: differential part 2

The pre load is set both to the carrier and pinion bearings as two different steps. The preload is the amount of force to turn the parts not how the teeth engage (18-20 inch pounds). They are done as three different steps. (or more) Once you get the preload on the carrier by adding or removing gaskets or shims as needed to one side, you remove it carrier assembly and proceed to set the pinion preload. After both preloads are set you need to adjust the backlash on the gears. That involves moving the gaskets back and forth or even moving the shim if needed till you get the desired backlash without adding or subtracting the number or thickness of gaskets/shims you used to setup. Don't do this with the axles installed, too much work lifting the housing on and off with them on, do install the spider.
Ok this does not cover everything but is the basics. Tom Endys write up is a great guide.
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