The Ford Barn

V4F · 03-08-2012, 11:25 PM

im having problems with my dist shaft building rust .the block casting where it narrows & goes thru the block . ive tried a gasket , a gasket with a thin coat of silicone , silicone along , grease . yes i oil it . it is crankcase moisture ?
thanks steve

BILL WILLIAMSON · 03-09-2012, 12:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steve norcal

im having problems with my dist shaft building rust .the block casting where it narrows & goes thru the block . ive tried a gasket , a gasket with a thin coat of silicone , silicone along , grease . yes i oil it . it is crankcase moisture ?
thanks steve

Steve,
I read somewhere that Ford ground a flat side on "B" distributors to "vent" that area because of condensation & rusting.
Horror story: Minerva's first Mallory seized the "never lube" bearings from condensation & rust in that area and ruined the distributor in just 2,200 miles! I ground 2 flats on the new one and also built my P.C.V. system. Bill W.

Tom Endy · 03-09-2012, 12:39 AM

I suspect your head gasket is leaking one of the water jackets in the area of the distributor. Try re-torquing the head. You can also add a tube of aluma-seal to the radiator. It works good at sealing water leaks in the block without pluging it and the radiator up. The other alternative is to replace the head gasket.

It is always a good practice to remove the distributor at each oil change. Clean and re-set the pounts and put a coat of grease around the base of the distributor housing. You don't have to reset the timing as long as you do not loosen the cam screw.

the distributor can easily rust in place and become difficult to remove if you don't occasionally remove it.

Tom Endy

V4F · 03-09-2012, 08:49 AM

thank you both . i have had them seize up . strange happening . i have put in a pcv system for crankcase pressure on long high speed trips . cleaning the dist is a good idea , so will do ......... thank you .. steve

Tom Wesenberg · 03-09-2012, 09:31 AM

I would coat it with antiseize. If you don't have that then use Mystik JT-6 High Temp grease.

BILL WILLIAMSON · 03-09-2012, 09:46 AM

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Quote:

Originally Posted by steve norcal

thank you both . i have had them seize up . strange happening . i have put in a pcv system for crankcase pressure on long high speed trips . cleaning the dist is a good idea , so will do ......... thank you .. steve

Steve & Tom,
Another thing I've always done, on stock distributors, remove the locating dowel pin on dist, you can locate it by eyeball and the lockdown screw will hold it in place well.Then if it ever seizes, along with penetrating oil, you can rotate it to get the danged thing out. (Tip # 947) Bill W.

Tom Wesenberg · 03-09-2012, 10:04 AM

Bill,
The lcok screw should not be that tight though. It should just touch the distributor, then tighten the lock nut.

BILL WILLIAMSON · 03-09-2012, 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

Bill,
The lcok screw should not be that tight though. It should just touch the distributor, then tighten the lock nut.

Tight within reason, after all, the dist does have an IRON body! To be "safe," I grind a sharp point on the end of the screw for a little "bite." I've run them for years this way with NO problems. Works for me! Bill W.

V4F · 03-09-2012, 11:31 AM

i do have never seize . never thought of using it . thank you .. steve

VWJoe · 03-09-2012, 11:35 AM

Use it

. It gets everywhere anyway & you you can't wipe off for nuttin'

Brentwood Bob · 03-09-2012, 12:22 PM

I like tom's procedure to remove the distrib at oil change. The lower shaft is stuck to the oil pump driver on the huckster, guess it would benefit from removal also. Bob

Bud · 03-09-2012, 12:29 PM

FS Ignitions sells a stainless shaft.

Purdy Swoft · 03-09-2012, 01:20 PM

I think that it is a common problem. I use anti seize as has been mentioned. The problem is much worse with aluminum distributor housings, such as Mallory and others because of dissimilar metal reaction. When it has happened on our cars with Mallory distributors , I break out the large channel lock pliers, grasp the housing where it enters the head and gently rotate. I haven't ruined one yet.

V4F · 03-09-2012, 04:49 PM

i am taking all precautions . i will use all this info ... thanks all ............... steve

Preacher · 03-09-2012, 09:40 PM

NEVER run the lock screw in tight to the distributor body. run it in to touch, then back of a titch.... 1/8 turn or so.

SteveB31 · 03-09-2012, 09:47 PM

Anti Seize, Anti Seize , anti seize. Use it on that and almost every bolt. If you are going to own the car for a while, or care about the next owner of the car, anti seize makes things come apart easy years later. It should be used all the time.

BILL WILLIAMSON · 03-10-2012, 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Preacher

NEVER run the lock screw in tight to the distributor body. run it in to touch, then back of a titch.... 1/8 turn or so.

Everyone,
Then it ain't even a LOCKSCREW! You can't get it TOO tight with slot screwdriver! That's why they built it with a slot instead of a hex head bolt in order to"IDIOT PROOF" it against someone crushing the distributor body! Is there anything on a Model A that just requires just "finger tight?"
Including front wheel bearings which some will not accept that they need to be pre-loaded for proper operation and long life and good circulation of the grease.
I try to help with good mechanical practices that have worked for me, try to dispell old wives tales & old husband's tales. I don't know everything, but I ain't no ROOKIE either. I sometime use CORNY humor to maybe help folks remember something really helpful that I've posted.
I tell my buddies that I have a "147" I.Q. and I type and talk HOKEY POKEY OKIE, so as not to intimidate anyone! Some ask for good advice, then just argue, argue, argue against it!
If I didn't make any "POINTS" with this harrange, that's O.K. I didn't have any points stored up when I got up this A.M! (But the dog still loves me!) Bill W.

Purdy Swoft · 03-10-2012, 08:56 PM

DING!!! DING!!! DING!!! DING!!! DING!!!!!!! Bill, you are making points here. I agree I tighten mine. You've just got to have the correct torque at the elbow and use common sense. You can imagine how quick a Mallory or any other modern style distributor would slip out of time if the set screw wasn't given some tension. Not trying to be a disagreeable old poot and make anybody mad. I know where you are coming from. Thanks for your input.

03-08-2012, 11:25 PM	#1
V4F Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: ca. Posts: 2,522	question pleasedistributor im having problems with my dist shaft building rust .the block casting where it narrows & goes thru the block . ive tried a gasket , a gasket with a thin coat of silicone , silicone along , grease . yes i oil it . it is crankcase moisture ? thanks steve __________________ V4f

03-09-2012, 12:39 AM	#3
Tom Endy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Southern California Posts: 3,131	Re: question pleasedistributor I suspect your head gasket is leaking one of the water jackets in the area of the distributor. Try re-torquing the head. You can also add a tube of aluma-seal to the radiator. It works good at sealing water leaks in the block without pluging it and the radiator up. The other alternative is to replace the head gasket. It is always a good practice to remove the distributor at each oil change. Clean and re-set the pounts and put a coat of grease around the base of the distributor housing. You don't have to reset the timing as long as you do not loosen the cam screw. the distributor can easily rust in place and become difficult to remove if you don't occasionally remove it. Tom Endy

03-09-2012, 08:49 AM	#4
V4F Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: ca. Posts: 2,522	Re: question pleasedistributor thank you both . i have had them seize up . strange happening . i have put in a pcv system for crankcase pressure on long high speed trips . cleaning the dist is a good idea , so will do ......... thank you .. steve __________________ V4f

03-09-2012, 09:31 AM	#5
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: question pleasedistributor I would coat it with antiseize. If you don't have that then use Mystik JT-6 High Temp grease. Last edited by Tom Wesenberg; 03-09-2012 at 09:42 AM.

03-09-2012, 10:04 AM	#7
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: question pleasedistributor Bill, The lcok screw should not be that tight though. It should just touch the distributor, then tighten the lock nut.

03-09-2012, 11:31 AM	#9
V4F Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: ca. Posts: 2,522	Re: question pleasedistributor i do have never seize . never thought of using it . thank you .. steve __________________ V4f

03-09-2012, 11:35 AM	#10
VWJoe Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Manassas, Va. Posts: 87	Re: question pleasedistributor Use it . It gets everywhere anyway & you you can't wipe off for nuttin'

03-09-2012, 12:22 PM	#11
Brentwood Bob Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: brentwood, ca Posts: 4,248	Re: question pleasedistributor I like tom's procedure to remove the distrib at oil change. The lower shaft is stuck to the oil pump driver on the huckster, guess it would benefit from removal also. Bob

03-09-2012, 12:29 PM	#12
Bud Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Ohio Posts: 819	Re: question pleasedistributor FS Ignitions sells a stainless shaft.

03-09-2012, 01:20 PM	#13
Purdy Swoft Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 8,099	Re: question pleasedistributor I think that it is a common problem. I use anti seize as has been mentioned. The problem is much worse with aluminum distributor housings, such as Mallory and others because of dissimilar metal reaction. When it has happened on our cars with Mallory distributors , I break out the large channel lock pliers, grasp the housing where it enters the head and gently rotate. I haven't ruined one yet.

03-09-2012, 04:49 PM	#14
V4F Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: ca. Posts: 2,522	Re: question pleasedistributor i am taking all precautions . i will use all this info ... thanks all ............... steve __________________ V4f

03-09-2012, 09:40 PM	#15
Preacher Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Minnesota Posts: 198	Re: question pleasedistributor NEVER run the lock screw in tight to the distributor body. run it in to touch, then back of a titch.... 1/8 turn or so. __________________ If it ain't broke, fix it 'til it is ... http://tcmafc.org/

03-09-2012, 09:47 PM	#16
SteveB31 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Englewood, Colorado Posts: 1,372	Re: question pleasedistributor Anti Seize, Anti Seize , anti seize. Use it on that and almost every bolt. If you are going to own the car for a while, or care about the next owner of the car, anti seize makes things come apart easy years later. It should be used all the time.

03-10-2012, 08:56 PM	#18
Purdy Swoft Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alabama Posts: 8,099	Re: question pleasedistributor DING!!! DING!!! DING!!! DING!!! DING!!!!!!! Bill, you are making points here. I agree I tighten mine. You've just got to have the correct torque at the elbow and use common sense. You can imagine how quick a Mallory or any other modern style distributor would slip out of time if the set screw wasn't given some tension. Not trying to be a disagreeable old poot and make anybody mad. I know where you are coming from. Thanks for your input.