Time for a new battery???

[spinelll]

I assume the corrosion on the hold-down corners is from a leak?
Also, it's not revealed in the picture but the area around the positive post is swollen.

[Y-Blockhead]

The corrosion is common for a lead/acid battery as hydrogen and acid is vented during charging. Clean it off with baking soda and coat your terminals with grease or battery terminal protector.

I install those green and red corrosion washers on the terminals.

I also have had great success with using 'Battery Oil' in my batteries. My current battery in my Town Sedan is over 10 years old and going strong. Very rarely do I have to add water. Never have a corrosion problem.

https://www.thermoil.com/product/battery-de-mister/

[Mike1291]

The corrosion in the first picture doesn't look normal in my opinion. I see the label peeled back but I'm not sure what it's revealing. It may be nothing, but the swelling in the second picture is concerning. I'd replace it rather than to have it fail.

Have you tried putting a load tester on it?

[AzBob]

Originally Posted by Y-Blockhead

The corrosion is normal for a lead/acid battery.

X2. I just cleaned worse corrosion than this off the terminals of the 2021 lead acid battery in my modern driver.

I have an Optima AGM battery installed on my Model A and there is absolutely no corrosion on the terminals or anywhere else on the battery or battery box area. Was installed in 2015.

[Ordsgt]

looking at the battery label it appears to have been installed in March 2015. For a standard battery i believe it has reached its expected lifespan. I would replace it now before it fails. The swollen area around the post is not good

[nkaminar]

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Ford told the dealers to clean the tops of the batteries with a solution of water and baking soda or a weak solution of water and ammonia when the cars came in for service. That neutralizes the acid coming from the battery. The tops of the batteries were then rinsed with water.

Batteries are mostly killed by over charging or under charging. Make it a habit of hooking up a battery maintainer when the car is parked for more than a week. Use the desulfating type of battery maintainer. Use a volt meter as part of your car's instrumentation to make sure the battery is not over charged. Correct voltage when charging is 14 volts for a 12 volt battery or 7 volts for a 6 volt battery.

[Gene F]

I agree with post #2. Avoid adding water (even distilled water) if at all possible. However, if you have to cover the plates you gotta do what you gotta do. Charge the thing before you put it back in.

[nkaminar]

Blockhead, thanks for the tip. I guess I cannot use Magical Mystery Oil.

[noboD]

Put Never Seize on the battery posts, it will never corrode again. Been doing it for about 60 years.

[JayJay]

OTOH - if this battery was installed in 2015 as ordsgt suggests, it's time to think seriously about replacement. In my experience a flooded cell car battery's life, no matter how much you pay for it initially (remember Sears "Die Hard"?), and especially if it has not been driven and kept charged regularly, is no more than about five years. That swelling and cracking around the post does not look healthy to me. I don't necessarily replace at five years but if it goes dead for no reason I'll charge it once then when it goes dead again, it's gone. I just last week replaced a battery that was from July 2016 (7-1/2 years), it went dead two weeks after I last drove the car. It could not even be jumped.

I agree that the corrosion on the terminal and underneath the hold down is normal and nothing to be concerned about. But the swelling and cracking around the post, and the age, would concern me.

I don't have any experience with life of AGM batteries like the Optima in cars. I did have an Optima battery in my last touring motorcycle and it was going strong at seven years.

[Gene F]

Jay Jay you are right about one this part; "...especially if it has not been driven and kept charged regularly..." I use a disconnect switch. Seems like there is always a little draw no matter what in an A if you don't use that little switch over for overnights. I top off the charge end of season, and then top it off with my charger before the season. I learned a lot about lead acid batteries when I managed data centers. When they get pulled down it takes a lot out of them.

I do the same thing in my 57 Ford.

If you charge it up, and take it over to Advance, or possibly NAPA they have a little load test gizzmo and they typically will test it for you for free. Of course, no point in that if the hydrometer is not in range.

[Y-Blockhead]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

Blockhead, thanks for the tip. I guess I cannot use Magical Mystery Oil.

Haha, I suppose you could but I can't guarantee the results. Actually, if interested, do a google search for "Battery Oil". Some interesting facts about Thomas Edison and how battery oil was used in batteries for telegraph 120+ years ago.

Battery oil bottles are a kinda of a collectors item now.

[JayJay]

Originally Posted by Gene F

If you charge it up, and take it over to Advance, or possibly NAPA they have a little load test gizzmo and they typically will test it for you for free. Of course, no point in that if the hydrometer is not in range.

Typically those load test machines at the "What car is that for" auto parts stores are plug and play, and the guys behind the counter don't know squat about how they work - they just read from a screen. I haven't tried but I doubt they would be able to do a 6V battery. NAPA might, in my experience NAPA (being franchised independents) is a cut above AutoZone, Advance, O'Reilly and whatnot.

[Gene F]

I have a carbon pile one to give me battery condition.

That is the beauty of that new one, they just hook it up, and flip the switch. Because you are right, parts people now days are not professionals.