03-27-2015, 10:11 AM | #1 |
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57 Thunderbird
I am going to convert my generator system to an alternator. What is the best alternator to use and what will have to be done to the electrical system?
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03-27-2015, 10:43 AM | #2 |
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Location: Middle TN
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Re: 57 Thunderbird
Most people use an internally regulated GM one wire alternator for easy hook-up. No modifications needed to the rest of the system other than disconnecting your external voltage regulator.
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03-27-2015, 10:45 AM | #3 |
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Location: Norfolk, VA
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Re: 57 Thunderbird
The main consideration is One Wire or Three Wire.
Here is a good article that explains the difference. http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...hreewire.shtml |
03-27-2015, 10:49 AM | #4 | |
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Re: 57 Thunderbird
Quote:
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03-27-2015, 03:01 PM | #5 | |
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Re: 57 Thunderbird
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Charlie Stephens |
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03-27-2015, 07:43 PM | #6 |
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Re: 57 Thunderbird
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03-28-2015, 10:40 PM | #7 |
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Re: 57 Thunderbird
CASCO has a good one which I have been using for a few years now without any issues. Easy one wire install.........J in CT
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03-28-2015, 11:38 PM | #8 |
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Re: 57 Thunderbird
One wire alternators have to be at a higher rpm to begin charging than a generator.
Since our Birds idle at a low rpm , I would be concerned about keeping a battery charged at low idle situations such as parades-etc. Now the alternator kits MAY have a smaller pulley installed on the alternator to keep the alternator spinning higher to prevent this - I don't know? Finally , a properly working generator is just fine for a standard T Bird. As long as there are no hi current consumption items installed on the car such as a loud boom-boom stereo ,fog lites or air conditioning, the generator will do the job just fine. Just another modification that I feel is not necessary. Oldmics |
03-31-2015, 02:22 PM | #9 |
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Re: 57 Thunderbird
Oldmics....I believe my CASCO alternator does have a smaller pulley but the way I understand the one wire alternator setup is that the alternator does not charge until the RPM`s get to 1200 which at startup is just an easy blip of the gas pedal then the alternator charges at all RPM`s until the ignition is shut off. So once the car is started and the RPM`s are brought up to 1200 then as long as the ignition is not shut off all is good. This Is my understanding of the one wire setup....correct me if I am wrong....J in CT
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03-31-2015, 03:05 PM | #10 |
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Re: 57 Thunderbird
I'm not taking issue with anything above. Most 1 wire alternators will function as Zoe states. The problem with the one wire is it's "charging voltage" at the alternator output terminal, not at the battery. When I did my first alternator conversion, as a one wire, I found more than a volt drop from the alternator to the battery. This was with clean connections, and the larger wires for a 6 volt system. When I went to the 3 wire/warning light system, the charging at the battery went up to were it belonged.
I've got the boom box, electric fuel pump, EFI, a high output spark system, a/c, and electric fans. I need the alternator, stuck in traffic. Without these, I'd agree a generator well rebuilt is fine. |
03-31-2015, 04:01 PM | #11 | |
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Re: 57 Thunderbird
Quote:
The "charging voltage" is determined as Miker stated with the 2nd wire usually attached at the battery terminal on the starter solenoid. That wire is the "voltage sensing" wire which connects back to the alternator regulator. Attached to that same terminal on the starter solenoid is the dash power up wire to which the fan motor, headlights, radio and sometimes other accessories are attached from the headlight switch through to the ignition switch. When those are activated the voltage drops and the alternator sensing wire tells the alternator to charge the battery just as the regulator, away from the generator, does in a standard system. The third wire is the Gen dash warning light power to the alternator. As stated, a system with good connections and good wiring with no accessory additions probably will operate fine with the generator. Relays for the headlights are a worthwhile consideration regardless of generator or alternator. Note that the seats and windows relays get their power from that same starter solenoid post. The switches that activate them carry relatively low power to activate the relays. |
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