The Ford Barn

Great Lakes Greg · 12-13-2014, 04:06 PM

Pictured is the front mount that came with the chassis I bought. I didn't pay attention when I took it apart and now question why the castle nut is nearly an half inch past the hole in the stud. Ideas anybody?

Jack Innes · 12-13-2014, 04:24 PM

It looks appears you have a later mount & an earlier, thinner spring.

tmodelman · 12-13-2014, 08:37 PM

More likely is your front mount is '26-'27 Ton Truck (TT) which is longer for the larger TT front cross member.

The one you have does have the boss and threaded hole for the radiator apron screw which is a '26-'27 feature. Your front cross member is pre-'26.

A quick check is the thread size, that TT front mount is 5/8" x 18. A std. T front mount has 9/16" x 18 thread.

Steve Jelf · 12-13-2014, 08:40 PM

Two questions: What year car is this? Did you leave out the pad that belongs between the spring and the cross member?

Great Lakes Greg · 12-13-2014, 09:42 PM

The frame is a '23. The only thing I have between the frame and spring is a strip of rubber for squeaks.
Everything had the same crusty look when I disassembled it, so it must have been a very old replacement/repair. I can't imagine how somebody would have gone about breaking this part in the old days, but I guess anything is possible.
Thanks for everybody's input.

Great Lakes Greg · 12-13-2014, 09:58 PM

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Before I get too carried away and cut the legs and drill new holes, can anybody use this part? I don't want to booger it up if it's a rare piece. If they are a dime a dozen, well then I don't care.

dumb person · 12-14-2014, 01:18 AM

Why not put washers on it to space the nuts? no cutting that way.

Great Lakes Greg · 12-14-2014, 08:28 AM

Y'now, I did think of putting some acceptable looking spacers in, seen as how it's a speedster and not a fine point resto. That would be easier.

tmodelman · 12-14-2014, 09:56 AM

That TT part#1165 (factory#2921) Front Bearing and Spring Clip isn't very rare, and they are found many times on put-together car chassis, as commonly are unknown by many of the presence of two different spring clips, (car part#3075B), the smaller of the two.

Best look would be to cut the threads shorter, re-drill for cotter pin hole, and use castle nut, with the bigger thread on the TT front bearing, you can use rear axle shaft nuts, they are the same thread size.

Steve Jelf · 12-14-2014, 11:02 AM

I'd just trade it for the car part.

yachtsmanbill · 12-17-2014, 08:50 PM

All valid points. If you decide to use it scrape the paint out of the oil pan saddle. Its a semi critical fit. It may go or you might struggle. Eventually it will wear off. It really needs to move and is also somewhat of an electrical grounding point too. Cut a heavy leather belt or re-enforced rubber conveyor belt between the frame and top spring leaf. About 1/4"+ up to 3/8". ws

Steve Jelf · 12-18-2014, 12:48 AM

Here's how Ford made the front spring pad.

Great Lakes Greg · 12-19-2014, 05:56 PM

I ended up cutting the legs off and re-drilling the holes. It looks much better. For the spring rubber, I took some Model A floor mat rubber and cut a strip out.
Thanks for the tip on the electrical ground.

12-13-2014, 08:40 PM	#4
Steve Jelf Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Parkerfield KS Posts: 526	Re: Engine / spring mount issue Two questions: What year car is this? Did you leave out the pad that belongs between the spring and the cross member?

12-13-2014, 09:42 PM	#5
Great Lakes Greg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,369	Re: Engine / spring mount issue The frame is a '23. The only thing I have between the frame and spring is a strip of rubber for squeaks. Everything had the same crusty look when I disassembled it, so it must have been a very old replacement/repair. I can't imagine how somebody would have gone about breaking this part in the old days, but I guess anything is possible. Thanks for everybody's input.

12-13-2014, 09:58 PM	#6
Great Lakes Greg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,369	Re: Engine / spring mount issue Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Before I get too carried away and cut the legs and drill new holes, can anybody use this part? I don't want to booger it up if it's a rare piece. If they are a dime a dozen, well then I don't care.

12-14-2014, 01:18 AM	#7
dumb person Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: South pacific island Posts: 1,724	Re: Engine / spring mount issue Why not put washers on it to space the nuts? no cutting that way. __________________ <Link> This is how we roll<Link> "I'm Convinced that no one really reads posts anymore; they just fabricate what they think the post says then ramble on about red herrings."--Bob Outcasts rules of old cars #1 Fun is imperative, mainstream is overrated #2 If they think it is impossible, prove them wrong #3 If the science says it impossible you are not being creative enough. #4 No shame in recreating something you never had #5 If it were not for the law & physics you would be unstoppable

12-14-2014, 08:28 AM	#8
Great Lakes Greg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,369	Re: Engine / spring mount issue Y'now, I did think of putting some acceptable looking spacers in, seen as how it's a speedster and not a fine point resto. That would be easier.

12-13-2014, 04:24 PM	#2
Jack Innes Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Brooklin, Ontario Posts: 704	Re: Engine / spring mount issue It looks appears you have a later mount & an earlier, thinner spring. __________________ Jack Innes, Brooklin, Ontario

12-13-2014, 08:37 PM	#3
tmodelman Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: north central FL Posts: 580	Re: Engine / spring mount issue More likely is your front mount is '26-'27 Ton Truck (TT) which is longer for the larger TT front cross member. The one you have does have the boss and threaded hole for the radiator apron screw which is a '26-'27 feature. Your front cross member is pre-'26. A quick check is the thread size, that TT front mount is 5/8" x 18. A std. T front mount has 9/16" x 18 thread.

12-14-2014, 09:56 AM	#9
tmodelman Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: north central FL Posts: 580	Re: Engine / spring mount issue That TT part#1165 (factory#2921) Front Bearing and Spring Clip isn't very rare, and they are found many times on put-together car chassis, as commonly are unknown by many of the presence of two different spring clips, (car part#3075B), the smaller of the two. Best look would be to cut the threads shorter, re-drill for cotter pin hole, and use castle nut, with the bigger thread on the TT front bearing, you can use rear axle shaft nuts, they are the same thread size.

12-14-2014, 11:02 AM	#10
Steve Jelf Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Parkerfield KS Posts: 526	Re: Engine / spring mount issue I'd just trade it for the car part.

12-17-2014, 08:50 PM	#11
yachtsmanbill Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Two Rivers, Wi. Posts: 1,406	Re: Engine / spring mount issue All valid points. If you decide to use it scrape the paint out of the oil pan saddle. Its a semi critical fit. It may go or you might struggle. Eventually it will wear off. It really needs to move and is also somewhat of an electrical grounding point too. Cut a heavy leather belt or re-enforced rubber conveyor belt between the frame and top spring leaf. About 1/4"+ up to 3/8". ws __________________ " Warning; the following contains content that the anal retentive may find offensive - please skip on to the next posting!"

12-19-2014, 05:56 PM	#13
Great Lakes Greg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,369	Re: Engine / spring mount issue I ended up cutting the legs off and re-drilling the holes. It looks much better. For the spring rubber, I took some Model A floor mat rubber and cut a strip out. Thanks for the tip on the electrical ground.