The Ford Barn

Vanspeed · 03-16-2012, 08:00 PM

Most 28-29 pickups I see have droopy doors, mine is also this way. The belt lines are about 1/4 inch off. I removed all the mounting bolts and body blocks and the rear of the cab is pretty much sitting on the frame now and the doors are still saging. 28-29 cars/trucks used a continuous pad at the cowl so there was no tilting done at the factory by way of shims. What are my options here and what did you guys do to align the doors?

Ice man · 03-16-2012, 09:21 PM

Mine was doing the same. The double bolts at the rear of the cowl needs to be raised, a few shims will do the job. Iceman

Dave in Petaluma · 03-16-2012, 09:45 PM

It is tedious, but it can be done. Make sure the hinges are straight and be patient. The result is worth the effort.

1crosscut · 03-16-2012, 10:09 PM

(Mine was doing the same. The double bolts at the rear of the cowl needs to be raised, a few shims will do the job. Iceman)

The rubber pads that I've seen from the vendors are not very usable as they don't have the cloth layer sandwiched inside and tend to squish out. I noticed that the flat belting for round balers that TSC carrys has the re-enforcing layer of cloth and looks as if it would work quite well. I did mine before seeing the material at TSC. I ended up cutting out a couple of pieces from used rubber paddles off a single stage snow blower. Same type of rubber with the cloth and it worked good for me.
Dave

Steve Wastler · 03-17-2012, 07:22 AM

Since you still have droopy drawers, oops, doors, it sounds to me that your frame is sagging at the rear motor mounts. My vote would be check the frame for sag. If you just want to shim, I have many rolls of belting that was in my barn from the early days of farming, tell me how much you need and I'll send you some.

Dan Partain · 03-17-2012, 03:22 PM

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As Iceman said, you will need to add shims to the area under the two carriage bolts at the rear of the cowl to raise the rear of the doors so they fit in the latch area. This is 99% of the door alignment on these cabs.

Don't forget - you have to loosen 'all' of the body bolts, add (or remove shims) and then tighten 'all' of the body bolts back up to check the alignment.

Vanspeed · 03-18-2012, 07:02 PM

Just finished up today and coule not be happier. Thanks for the help guys. Didn't realize how much the old shims/body blocks had swelled way out of proportions and caused alot of the bad body fit. I posted pics in my thread about the truck if you care to look.

03-16-2012, 08:00 PM	#1
Vanspeed Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Suttons Bay, Mich. Posts: 3,387	1929 CCPU body shimming Most 28-29 pickups I see have droopy doors, mine is also this way. The belt lines are about 1/4 inch off. I removed all the mounting bolts and body blocks and the rear of the cab is pretty much sitting on the frame now and the doors are still saging. 28-29 cars/trucks used a continuous pad at the cowl so there was no tilting done at the factory by way of shims. What are my options here and what did you guys do to align the doors? __________________ *Respecting and Resurrecting Ford Model A's.*

03-16-2012, 09:21 PM	#2
Ice man Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Southern Pines, N.Carolina Posts: 210	Re: 1929 CCPU body shimming Mine was doing the same. The double bolts at the rear of the cowl needs to be raised, a few shims will do the job. Iceman

03-16-2012, 09:45 PM	#3
Dave in Petaluma Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 61	Re: 1929 CCPU body shimming It is tedious, but it can be done. Make sure the hinges are straight and be patient. The result is worth the effort.

03-16-2012, 10:09 PM	#4
1crosscut Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Lincoln, Nebraska Posts: 1,910	Re: 1929 CCPU body shimming (Mine was doing the same. The double bolts at the rear of the cowl needs to be raised, a few shims will do the job. Iceman) The rubber pads that I've seen from the vendors are not very usable as they don't have the cloth layer sandwiched inside and tend to squish out. I noticed that the flat belting for round balers that TSC carrys has the re-enforcing layer of cloth and looks as if it would work quite well. I did mine before seeing the material at TSC. I ended up cutting out a couple of pieces from used rubber paddles off a single stage snow blower. Same type of rubber with the cloth and it worked good for me. Dave

03-17-2012, 07:22 AM	#5
Steve Wastler Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,987	Re: 1929 CCPU body shimming Since you still have droopy drawers, oops, doors, it sounds to me that your frame is sagging at the rear motor mounts. My vote would be check the frame for sag. If you just want to shim, I have many rolls of belting that was in my barn from the early days of farming, tell me how much you need and I'll send you some.

03-17-2012, 03:22 PM	#6
Dan Partain Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Hangtown, CA Posts: 556	Re: 1929 CCPU body shimming Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) As Iceman said, you will need to add shims to the area under the two carriage bolts at the rear of the cowl to raise the rear of the doors so they fit in the latch area. This is 99% of the door alignment on these cabs. Don't forget - you have to loosen 'all' of the body bolts, add (or remove shims) and then tighten 'all' of the body bolts back up to check the alignment.

03-18-2012, 07:02 PM	#7
Vanspeed Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Suttons Bay, Mich. Posts: 3,387	Re: 1929 CCPU body shimming Just finished up today and coule not be happier. Thanks for the help guys. Didn't realize how much the old shims/body blocks had swelled way out of proportions and caused alot of the bad body fit. I posted pics in my thread about the truck if you care to look. __________________ *Respecting and Resurrecting Ford Model A's.*