Choke linkage for dual Stromberg carbs

[midgetracer]

I have a Miller head on a B engine in my 30 Coupe. Does anyone have a good dual linkage setup for the choke. I find that I have to close the choke on both carbs to get the engine to start right up. I am using an old Zepher intake manifold, but i don't believe manifold makes a difference on the choke setup. I have been told to skip the chokes , or just set the chokes outside the car, warm it up a then open the chokes and drive. There has to be a better linkage to choke both carbs from inside the car. Thanks for any advice.

[brokenspoke]

Check out Charlie Price (vintage speed) for a linkage

[midgetracer]

Vintage Speed has only accelerator linkage, and recommends choking only one carb. I would like to choke both carbs at once.

[emf]

Not sure why a single choke won't work for you. Maybe the choke plate doesn't close completely, you should check that. Here is a shot of my dual Strombergs on a Burns manifold. The issue you would have with trying to close both chokes is that the rear carburetor has a very steep angle to pull the lever back. Possibly a link between the two choke levers with a joint in the middle for the control rod.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by midgetracer

Vintage Speed has only accelerator linkage, and recommends choking only one carb. I would like to choke both carbs at once.

Generally speaking, only one functioning choke is needed, ...especially if the throttle linkage is on a progressive opening. By fully depressing the gas pedal one time, both carb's accelerator pumps should put plenty of fuel into the manifold. Then with the single carburetor choke being closed, the vacuum signal should be more than adequate to make an extremely rich fuel mixture as the secondary carburetor's throttle blades have closed-off excessive air from entering the manifold. Even with a slight amount of gas pedal pressure, the secondary carburetor's throttle blades should remain closed which should keep the fuel mixture rich.

Even after the above, if you still want to have a functioning choke on both carburetors, run a second cable and just pull two choke knobs. Fabricate a bracket that holds both cables and attaches to the gas tank bracket.

[Dave in MN]

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What Brent describes above works. I used Brent's method for about a year before I switched to the system below. This system allows you to start driving before the engine warms by setting both carb chokes where they are needed to eliminate the bucking and sputtering. I do not have a progressive linkage for the throttle shafts.
The choke is set from within the cab.
See the photo of the linkage below:

The choke cable is sold by Snyder's. It is called: CHOKE KIT FOR WEBER CARB Part # A-9700-W $40.00
The connecting rod between the carbs is made up of parts available from Snyder's:
Part # A-9747 Control Rod Carb 10 1/2"
Part # A-9758 Spark Rod Sleeve --- 2 sleeves are needed or one can be eliminated with the use of a small collar with the set screw replaced with a short bolt to attach the cable to. A small eyelet was formed at the end of the choke cable.

[midgetracer]

Thanks Dave, That is what I was looking for. Did you bend the ball ends on the choke lever to be parallel to the carb plane or just leave then at the stock angle?

[Dave in MN]

I left them at the stock angle. The system functions smoothly.
Good Day!

[midgetracer]

Thanks Dave

[Jim Brierley]

I run 3 Stromberg 81's on my speedster, and have a choke only on the center car. Pumping the throttle a few times before cranking put enough fuel into the manifold to start the engine, the choke gives a faster idle and richer mixture, needed until the engine warms a bit. Make sure your accelerator pumps are both working.

[katy]

Howcum I only see throttle connection to one carburetor?

[emf]

Originally Posted by katy

Howcum I only see throttle connection to one carburetor?

If it's like mine, the carb to carb connection is on the other side. On mine, you can see the rod just in front of the distributor...


Frank

[Dave in MN]

Originally Posted by emf

If it's like mine, the carb to carb connection is on the other side. On mine, you can see the rod just in front of the distributor...


Frank

Yup...Same as you do. The connecting link is somewhat hidden on the other side of the carbs.
Dave

[Gene F]

How about this; use a cable. Cut the outer jacket after the first carb. Put the outer sleve on, and affix it to a fix point, that one inner wire will run both flaps when you pull or push it.

I have a tri-power on my 57 Ford, but those carbs are prgressive, and the primary carb is different.

[Gene F]

Originally Posted by midgetracer

Thanks Dave

So how do you like your multi carb downdraft setup?

[Dave in MN]

Originally Posted by Gene F

So how do you like your multi carb downdraft setup?

I need to do a bit of tuning yet. I have an air/fuel ratio AFR gauge connected and temporarily taped to my gauge cluster. It is running 10.5 to 12.5 much of the time depending on gear and throttle position. Shift to overdrive and vary the throttle and it will jump to 14 - 15.

The carbs are Stromberg 97 bodies but they are actually 81's internally. I have tried a couple different combinations.
(1) Stromberg 97 Good economy but lacked power at top end
(2) Stromberg 97's Rough idle, sluggish acceleration, good power at top end
(2) Stromberg 81's Good idle, smooth mid-range and good power at top end

Fuel economy is not good. I need to get the idle and low to mid range a bit leaner. I hope to improve the fuel economy to 18 mpg with the tuning. One week ago, I finished a 4100 mile road trip and have not checked the entire fuel log yet but the couple times I did the math after filling it was very close to 15 mpg. I just ordered a progressive carb linkage to test as part of the fuel economy tuning.

The engine is a Burtz from the first batch. The head is a Steve Serr Miller Hi-Speed. I have just over 11,000 miles on it. Runs good!

Good Day!

[Dave in MN]

Repeated post deleted.

[katy]

Originally Posted by emf

If it's like mine, the carb to carb connection is on the other side. On mine, you can see the rod just in front of the distributor...Frank

Thanks

[Gene F]

Originally Posted by Dave in MN

I need to do a bit of tuning yet. I have an air/fuel ratio AFR gauge connected and temporarily taped to my gauge cluster. It is running 10.5 to 12.5 much of the time depending on gear and throttle position. Shift to overdrive and vary the throttle and it will jump to 14 - 15.

The carbs are Stromberg 97 bodies but they are actually 81's internally. I have tried a couple different combinations.
(1) Stromberg 97 Good economy but lacked power at top end
(2) Stromberg 97's Rough idle, sluggish acceleration, good power at top end
(2) Stromberg 81's Good idle, smooth mid-range and good power at top end

Fuel economy is not good. I need to get the idle and low to mid range a bit leaner. I hope to improve the fuel economy to 18 mpg with the tuning. One week ago, I finished a 4100 mile road trip and have not checked the entire fuel log yet but the couple times I did the math after filling it was very close to 15 mpg.

The engine is a Burtz from the first batch. The head is a Steve Serr Miller Hi-Speed. I have just over 11,000 miles on it. Runs good!

Good Day!

Does it have a high-lift cam, like the IB-330?

[Dave in MN]

Originally Posted by Gene F

Does it have a high-lift cam, like the IB-330?

No. It has around .290 lift but with the 1.5:1 rockers, the actual valve lift is .435".