The Ford Barn

foxfire42 · 07-07-2012, 07:19 PM

First my RANT!!!
I've spent the better part of this afternoon FIGHTING with the flywheel housing. I installed it earlier in the year. Now I'm trying to get my engine assembled and in the chassis. My first problem was after getting the safety wire all in, attaching the flywheel and just before installing the clutch I noticed I left off the inspection plate. No way could I attach it with the flywheel bolted to the engine. If it's an inspection plate and it can't be installed how can it be removed to inspect anything? (not sure what you would inspect). I think that plate is misnamed. Anyway I removed EVERYTHING, put the inspection plate on and NOW I CAN'T GET THE DANG THING BACK ON. It went on easy without the inspection plate in place. LOL......

Questions.
1. Which direction does the lip on the plate go? Lip out facing engine? Andrews book pg 1-146 item #1 just says to install it. So much for "If all else fails, read the book"

2. I can't lift it high enough to mount it on the dowels as the plate is binding on the cork gasket. I've tried putting bolts into the two accelerator holes but the bottom is tipped out in order to get the housing high enough. Then there's no clearance to get it to swing into place. The inspection plate hits the rear main. I got it up somewhat flush and put a bolt in loose next to the dowel then tried to swing it in place. NO LUCK. So, what's the trick to get this thing installed? Do I need to trim some of the cork gasket to keep the inspection plate from binding and slide into place? I'm out of ideas.

3. If all else fails can I run without the inspection plate or will road junk get in and foul up the clutch operation?

JtownJoe · 07-07-2012, 07:57 PM

The flange on the 1/2 round faces the oil pan & as long as it slips up all the way behind the oil pan there should be plenty of room for it to compress into the cork gasket, the only issue is the space between the oil pan & the fly housing doesn't leave much room for your fingers to start the two top bolts, but it'll go.

Roger V · 07-07-2012, 07:59 PM

Every flywheel housing I've installed in 44 years was without the inspection plate. So, it was installed afterwards of course. While I don't know about your particular gasket, I have had some more snug than others. Usually, one bolt was installed on one end, the plate pushed up, an awl or something short put through the other end into the housing, leveraged up, and install the lower bolt. Then install the last bolt.

pat in Santa Cruz · 07-07-2012, 08:19 PM

I've never had a problem installing that plate other than its tight on the fingers getting that last bolt in. It sounds like the cork gasket squished out far enough to interfere with the inspection cover. The obvious thing would be to trim it, but the cause of the gasket's bulging so far would concern me. What was there about that gasket that caused it to protrude so far? not trimmed to fit the main? some one's hand made gasket? Excess silicon sealant causing the gasket to slip out of the groove when the bolts were tightened? I'd look very carefully to ensure there was not a future oil leak in the making.

foxfire42 · 07-07-2012, 09:19 PM

Tomorrow I'll give it a try putting the plate on after. At least now I know it CAN go on afterwards. What a frustrating day.......................Thanks.................

columbiA · 07-07-2012, 09:33 PM

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Its even harder to install the plate if you are useing a "B" engine with the 'A' FW hsg as there is even less room to start the bolts-specially the bottom one,but it can be done.Ive never had a problem with the 'A' pan.Sometimes,grinding a bit off the top 2 edges of plate will make it easier to install.

Wm J. · 07-07-2012, 09:50 PM

If you are trying to install an A inspection plate up to A B engine you will need to increase the radius to fit a B rear cap as it is much larger in diameter.

columbiA · 07-07-2012, 10:52 PM

WmJ--you are right as I remember that I had to do that on both my"B" to "A" conversions.

Mike V. Florida · 07-07-2012, 10:58 PM

Reproduction bolts too long?

Brentwood Bob · 07-08-2012, 01:40 AM

For the center bolt, use a pair of needle nose pliers to position the bolt with washer. Then use a flat screwdriver to wedge it with a little pressure until it gets started, Using a box end wrench to tighten. Repeating this procedure it gets easier about the 3rd interation. Just remember you are imprinting your brain. Bob

foxfire42 · 07-08-2012, 03:16 PM

AWK! I dont have any space left in my brain for imprinting.

Guess I'll have to purge some old info. Only problem is picking and choosing what to purge....

Brentwood Bob · 07-08-2012, 08:24 PM

I forgot to mention you probably start both the lower bolts first to hold the plate in position. I had the car up high enough to clear the fender/frame with my beer belly.
That paints a picture.....anyway, you have to be persistent. Bob

07-07-2012, 07:57 PM	#2
JtownJoe Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Johnstown, PA Posts: 343	Re: flywheel housing problem... The flange on the 1/2 round faces the oil pan & as long as it slips up all the way behind the oil pan there should be plenty of room for it to compress into the cork gasket, the only issue is the space between the oil pan & the fly housing doesn't leave much room for your fingers to start the two top bolts, but it'll go.

07-07-2012, 07:59 PM	#3
Roger V Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Michigan Posts: 1,593	Re: flywheel housing problem... Every flywheel housing I've installed in 44 years was without the inspection plate. So, it was installed afterwards of course. While I don't know about your particular gasket, I have had some more snug than others. Usually, one bolt was installed on one end, the plate pushed up, an awl or something short put through the other end into the housing, leveraged up, and install the lower bolt. Then install the last bolt.

07-07-2012, 08:19 PM	#4
pat in Santa Cruz Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: santa cruz, calif Posts: 2,011	Re: flywheel housing problem... I've never had a problem installing that plate other than its tight on the fingers getting that last bolt in. It sounds like the cork gasket squished out far enough to interfere with the inspection cover. The obvious thing would be to trim it, but the cause of the gasket's bulging so far would concern me. What was there about that gasket that caused it to protrude so far? not trimmed to fit the main? some one's hand made gasket? Excess silicon sealant causing the gasket to slip out of the groove when the bolts were tightened? I'd look very carefully to ensure there was not a future oil leak in the making.

07-07-2012, 09:19 PM	#5
foxfire42 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: AZ and WA Posts: 764	Re: flywheel housing problem... Tomorrow I'll give it a try putting the plate on after. At least now I know it CAN go on afterwards. What a frustrating day.......................Thanks.................

07-07-2012, 09:33 PM	#6
columbiA Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: B.C. Canada Posts: 1,746	Re: flywheel housing problem... Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) Its even harder to install the plate if you are useing a "B" engine with the 'A' FW hsg as there is even less room to start the bolts-specially the bottom one,but it can be done.Ive never had a problem with the 'A' pan.Sometimes,grinding a bit off the top 2 edges of plate will make it easier to install.

07-07-2012, 07:19 PM	#1
foxfire42 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: AZ and WA Posts: 764	flywheel housing problem... First my RANT!!! I've spent the better part of this afternoon FIGHTING with the flywheel housing. I installed it earlier in the year. Now I'm trying to get my engine assembled and in the chassis. My first problem was after getting the safety wire all in, attaching the flywheel and just before installing the clutch I noticed I left off the inspection plate. No way could I attach it with the flywheel bolted to the engine. If it's an inspection plate and it can't be installed how can it be removed to inspect anything? (not sure what you would inspect). I think that plate is misnamed. Anyway I removed EVERYTHING, put the inspection plate on and NOW I CAN'T GET THE DANG THING BACK ON. It went on easy without the inspection plate in place. LOL...... Questions. 1. Which direction does the lip on the plate go? Lip out facing engine? Andrews book pg 1-146 item #1 just says to install it. So much for "If all else fails, read the book" 2. I can't lift it high enough to mount it on the dowels as the plate is binding on the cork gasket. I've tried putting bolts into the two accelerator holes but the bottom is tipped out in order to get the housing high enough. Then there's no clearance to get it to swing into place. The inspection plate hits the rear main. I got it up somewhat flush and put a bolt in loose next to the dowel then tried to swing it in place. NO LUCK. So, what's the trick to get this thing installed? Do I need to trim some of the cork gasket to keep the inspection plate from binding and slide into place? I'm out of ideas. 3. If all else fails can I run without the inspection plate or will road junk get in and foul up the clutch operation?

07-07-2012, 09:50 PM	#7
Wm J. Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2010 Posts: 29	Re: flywheel housing problem... If you are trying to install an A inspection plate up to A B engine you will need to increase the radius to fit a B rear cap as it is much larger in diameter.

07-07-2012, 10:52 PM	#8
columbiA Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: B.C. Canada Posts: 1,746	Re: flywheel housing problem... WmJ--you are right as I remember that I had to do that on both my"B" to "A" conversions.

07-07-2012, 10:58 PM	#9
Mike V. Florida Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: South Florida Posts: 14,054	Re: flywheel housing problem... Reproduction bolts too long? __________________ What's right about America is that although we have a mess of problems, we have great capacity - intellect and resources - to do some thing about them. - Henry Ford II

07-08-2012, 01:40 AM	#10
Brentwood Bob Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: brentwood, ca Posts: 4,274	Re: flywheel housing problem... For the center bolt, use a pair of needle nose pliers to position the bolt with washer. Then use a flat screwdriver to wedge it with a little pressure until it gets started, Using a box end wrench to tighten. Repeating this procedure it gets easier about the 3rd interation. Just remember you are imprinting your brain. Bob

07-08-2012, 03:16 PM	#11
foxfire42 Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: AZ and WA Posts: 764	Re: flywheel housing problem... AWK! I dont have any space left in my brain for imprinting. Guess I'll have to purge some old info. Only problem is picking and choosing what to purge....

07-08-2012, 08:24 PM	#12
Brentwood Bob Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: brentwood, ca Posts: 4,274	Re: flywheel housing problem... I forgot to mention you probably start both the lower bolts first to hold the plate in position. I had the car up high enough to clear the fender/frame with my beer belly. That paints a picture.....anyway, you have to be persistent. Bob