36 light switch question

[JMFL36]

Picked up a '36 5W coupe a couple months back. Been going thru each system to get it sorted, keeping it as stock as possible. Currently rewiring and would like some advice on the light switch before tearing things further apart. Here's the situation. With the light switch housing in place at the bottom of the steering column, the horn blows but I have no lights and the bakelite disc on the steering wheel turns with little to no resistance. With the light switch housing removed, turning the disc does not turn the fork at the bottom of the column, but turning the steering wheel does turn the fork (and the disc). I've never had one of these apart so I'm not sure how the fork connects to the disc. Thoughts?

[cas3]

the bottom of the horn rod should be square, and the fork hole is square, so when you move the light switch, it has to move the fork unless the square hole is wore so bad its now round! never seen that before but anything is possible. push up on the fork to revel the little clip that holds it on, remove the fork and see whats going on there. once the switch body and fork are removed the light switch on the steering wheel should move freely, and pull up, etc with out a feeling like it is dragging against the inside of the steering shaft. these things are delicate, and must be straight. some cars you cant pull it up far enough to remove it because you hit the top before you get it out. you must lower the steering box in that case. horn going off means a short to ground, most likely in the lower end of the tube since that is already behaving strangely.

[JSeery]

Do you have a diagram of the steering column?

[JMFL36]

I've got this from the Ford Green Book.

[zoegrant]

If the bakalite plate on the steering wheel is not flush into the cavity in the steering wheel I would guess that the switch at the bottom of the steering shaft it not seated fully in it`s retainer.
First clean up the light switch housing using brake cleaner or whatever you use for a cleaner....remove the bail so you can pull the wiring plate out of it`s housing. Then make sure the wiring plate is seated properly into the housing.There is a slot cut into the wiring plate that has to line up with the retainer....Look for it.
You also will notice that the lower part of the housing has a raised dimples on each side so the housing will line up with the other top half of the housing and I would use a little lube of some type on those two raised dimpled areas. When sliding these two parts together make sure they go together perfectly straight as it is easy to get them cocked so that the 2 halfs dont fit tight enought together and that probably is what is causing the steering wheel horn to plate to be raised and turn freely. Take your time to seat the wiring housing properly.
Make sure area is super clean so you will see those two raised dimples on the housing and again use a light grease on those dimples to facilatate assembly...

[JMFL36]

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Update. I took a close look at the fork this evening. The fork retainer C clip was installed wrong, so the square hole in the fork was just spinning on the rod where the C clip should have been. See photo. Easy fix, right? No! I installed the C clip properly and the fork still does not move when horn disc is rotated. So I took off the fork, clip and spring and slid the rod up about a foot. Found the disc was only attached to the rod with the horn wire, nothing else. See photo.

Guess I'll have to take the rod out this weekend and see if I can reattach the disc. Any tips on how to drop the steering column? One of the bolts under the dash has a round head on it.

[cas3]

well thats good you have found the problem. i usually mig weld a nut on that round head bolt, but thats the derelict junk i drag home. you need a more civilized method for a good car, perhaps drill the head out. i believe its a 5/16 bolt, try to started on center and drill about a 1/8 pilot hole then go in with the big gun 3/8 until the head is loose. get some youngun to lay on his back and do the drilling! let us hear the results, good luck

[JMFL36]

Does anyone have some close up photos of how the horn rod attaches to the horn/light switch disc at the top of the rod, front and back? Also, the slit in my rod has a bit of a spiral to it (see photo). Is this correct, or has it been twisted over time?

[6lucky13]

Search " '36 Horn Rod Conundrum "

You will find some pictures in there of the horn rod assembly which I posted when having problems with my horns.

[JSeery]

Originally Posted by JMFL36

Is this correct, or has it been twisted over time?

This looks like it has been damaged, twisted.

[mrtexas]

I don't think the horn button can be reattached. IMHO once you get the snap off bolt out replace it with a regular bolt. Thieves today don't know the difference. For best luck with removing the bolt, remove the steering column. One way is to drill a hole in the snapped bolt and jam an easyout in there. Another is drill it out and a third is weld a washer/nut.

[JMFL36]

Update. Was able to remove the round headed steering column bolt with a #5 bolt out (see photo). A lot easier than drilling and tapping. Will replace with a hex head bolt when things go back together.

Removed the horn rod to find the rod completely sheared off at the horn/light switch plate at the top of the rod (see photo). Someone must have really cranked on the plate to break the rod like that! Given the rod needs to be the right length I'm guessing this rod can't be repaired. Anyone know where I can find a replacement rod?

Think I'll pull the steering wheel and repair the cracks while I'm hunting for a rod.

[Kahuna]

JMFL
When you go to replace the steering column bolt, use an Allen head bolt. It will need some light sanding on the head, but will fit perfectly into the recess.