Use of Staples to Attach Things as Originally

[Shoebox]

I have installed new window "fuzzies", the things that run horizontal in window openings, in several cars, and they are usually supplied with staples for attachment, as per originally. Well I have never used them because I have no tool to staple through metal, as the factory was able, and I can't imagine trying to "find" the original staple holes from the "fuzzie side. Instead I have used tiny screws that all but disappear when screwed in. Am I missing something regarding the ability to use these supplied staples?


I ask this today because I am about to install the rubber dust seal on my '51 Tudor that goes just ahead of the rear bumper, which you guessed it, was retained by staples,... which came with the new seal. I intend to attach with black trim adhesive, start at one side and go a foot or so at a time using a bunch of little clamps to secure till adhesive sets.



Any comments/suggestions most welcome!

[LuckyFordGuy]

Glue the seal with some good sealer I used rivetes for my fosses

[Shoebox]

Originally Posted by LuckyFordGuy

Glue the seal with some good sealer I used rivetes for my fosses

I am in progress with the dust seal. I have considered using tiny pop rivets on the fuzzies too.

[LuckyFordGuy]

Worked great for me just drill small hole put rivet in

[51 MERC-CT]

I have used 3/32 dia. pop rivets to replace staples.

[convert 40]

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Drill 2-1/16 holes 1/2 inch apart put the staples in and bend the ends over.
I've done this for years and it looks correct.

[paul2748]

When I have had to staple some seals to various objects on my Tbird, I lined up the seals to where they go, then using a thin pointed tool to punch the holes in the rubber that line up with the mounting. Then push the staples in and bend them over with the tool of choice. Got to hold the staple down on the other side when bending the points.


For certain things, I glued the seal down first with weatherstrip cement and then did the staples. Did the skirts on my TBird that way.

[Shoebox]

Thanks guys for the responses! I do see now how staples could be used in many instances, as well as the other methods mentioned here.

[Ron Pilger]

With glue you will have less worry of a pressure crack through the glass because of an improperly seated or bulged rivet. Voice of experience talking.

[rotorwrench]

Drill guides are made for nut plates in the aircraft industry so that a person can have accurate installation for a blind installation. This could be done for staples as well. Drill bits are available in both fractional sizes and wire gauge sizes all the way down to a #80 size. Some automotive type staples are fairly large wire. A person could make a drill guide from a piece of flat cold rolled steel sheet stock with careful measurement of the staples to be used and drill the guide for a good staple fit to it before using it to transfer the holes to the work piece to be joined.

Nut plate rivets in universal and flush head designs are also available from Cherry that can be used in 3/32" diameter sizes and for various lengths for different thicknesses of metals to be joined. A regular pop rivet gun will set them.

[blucar]

I have encountered problems with the automotive type of staples on many vintage car projects. A very skilled body repairman friend of mine showed me a neat trick to remove old fasteners, bolts and staples.. My friend said that old fasteners get brittle with age, heating the fastener up with a good head-gun will make it very easy to remove the staple.. Making a template of the original hole location requires a little work, but is doable.

Replacing the hardboard on auto visors using staples can be a chore, I have had very good luck with the heat-gun to open them up and remove the staples for re-use. I created a "dimple" in a piece of 3/4" bar stock to close the staple and secure the assembly together with a small hammer..