6 volt Coil problems, I think.

[old31]

Originally Posted by Tom Wesenberg

That looks like a giveaway from Harbor Freight, and I don't think much of them. I would buy a Sperry analog multimeter. or even a cheap plain 0-10 voltmeter like this one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-10V-Analo...IAAOSwqu9VSumH

Ahhhh, a very keen eye. Yes, that is a HF free meter.

[old31]

Originally Posted by Paul Bennett

What does that mean 2.2 and 3.32 ? The photo above, is that how a meter was set when for the 2.2 and 2.32 numbers? If so, where did you place meter leads for 'primary' and 'secondary' readings?.


After reading many posts about suspected bad coils I think there should be a gold standard test as coils are troublesome to many and many seem to be flying blind here and simply go buy another coil which often don't last terribly long.
Volts? Ohms? Ohms Radio?
Ohms +to- ?
Ohms +to hv ?
Ohms -to hv ?
Volts on + ?
Volts on - ?

Wise advice IMHO

I placed the meter as shown and did the test per diagram.

[katy]

I placed the meter as shown and did the test per diagram.

And what readings did you get?

[old31]

2.2 with the primary and 3.32 on the secondary

I just checked for Pertronics 40111 and I got 2.3 on the primary and 9.6 on the secondary

[old31]

Changed the points and condenser, checked lower distributor wire and It was OK, loosened up a half a turn on the ignition cable, installed per Tronics 40111, and still no spark. I will keep looking.

[txkhog]

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This may ne repeating advice. See it there is a Model A group in your area and see if one of their members will help identify you problem

[Patrick L.]

Just get a cheap test 12v light and look for voltage.

6v at open point arm/key on. If 12v then ballast is needed. Points and 12v don't get along well together.

0v at closed point arm

If you don't have these volt readings then work back to find the problem.

Hold the secondary/ high tension coil wire about 1/4" from a good ground. Key on, open and close point arm. The coil wire should spark.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Patrick L.

Just get a cheap test 12v light and look for voltage.

6v at open point arm/key on. If 12v then ballast is needed. Points and 12v don't get along well together.

0v at closed point arm

If you don't have these volt readings then work back to find the problem.

Hold the secondary/ high tension coil wire about 1/4" from a good ground. Key on, open and close point arm. The coil wire should spark.

Points open is open circuit, so it will still show 12 volts. Once the points close, the correct ballast will drop half the voltage.

[old31]

Patrick, with Key on, high tension lead quarter-inch next to head nut, points slowly opening I do not get spark. At the same time I hooked up a test light on the points and when the points open the test light lights but no spark.

[old31]

I took off the dash panel to see if I had any pinched wires, everything looks OK. With the dash panel disconnected I ran the same test as above and still no spark, every time the points open the Test light lights.

I disconnected the ignition cable and redid it to bottom plate ito see how it's Seats with in the bottom plate, and still no spark.

[old31]

What does this mean?

I put everything together and it ran for two seconds and then died. When I hook up the test light to a ground and the points and open and close the points the test light comes on, but I get no spark. But, when I hook up a test light to a ground and the distributor body every time I open the points I get a spark. And that's the only time I get a spark is when I hook up the test light to a ground and a distributor body.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Don't have a test light connected to the points when you are trying to get a spark.
The test light is in parallel with the condenser and shorting the function of the condenser.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by old31

What does this mean?

I put everything together and it ran for two seconds and then died. When I hook up the test light to a ground and the points and open and close the points the test light comes on, but I get no spark. But, when I hook up a test light to a ground and the distributor body every time I open the points I get a spark. And that's the only time I get a spark is when I hook up the test light to a ground and a distributor body.

Connect a jumper wire from the distributor metal to a good ground.
Sounds like the distributor isn't getting a good ground.

[old31]

OK Tom I will try it tomorrow, I feel beat up right about now and I'm going to eat some supper.

How is it possible that the distributor could lose its ground? I have been driving the car almost every day.
But how is it possible that the distributor is not getting a good ground it's sitting on the head. Oh I took off the distributor cable that attaches to the head nut a while ago could that be ungrounding the dist. I have put about 500 miles though since I disconnected it.

[Ed H.]

Originally Posted by old31

What does this mean?

I put everything together and it ran for two seconds and then died. When I hook up the test light to a ground and the points and open and close the points the test light comes on, but I get no spark. But, when I hook up a test light to a ground and the distributor body every time I open the points I get a spark. And that's the only time I get a spark is when I hook up the test light to a ground and a distributor body.

Your test light is acting like a ground. Use a piece of wire to ground dist to block.
If that does not work then run another ground from eng to frame.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Yep, when you removed the cable clamp you removed one good ground.
Rust often forms in the head, and rust is a good insulator.

[Paul Bennett]

While the thread title reads "6v coil" the car is a 12v car - early on it had a 6v coil but now demands a 12v coil.

So a new 6v coil will fail after a short drive and a new 12v coil will fail after a longer drive.

Any replacement coil whether 6 or 12v must have a ballast resister regardless as it is on 12v !!! Also it must be connected with its - teminal to the distributor points Someone tell him what ballast to buy and lets get the car on the road.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Most ballast have 1 1/2 ohm to match the 6 volt coil primary 1 1/2 ohm.

[old31]

Originally Posted by Paul Bennett

While the thread title reads "6v coil" the car is a 12v car - early on it had a 6v coil but now demands a 12v coil.

So a new 6v coil will fail after a short drive and a new 12v coil will fail after a longer drive.

Any replacement coil whether 6 or 12v must have a ballast resister regardless as it is on 12v !!! Also it must be connected with its - teminal to the distributor points Someone tell him what ballast to buy and lets get the car on the road.

Paul, I never said my car is a 12 volt car. It is 6 volt.

[Patrick L.]

Reply #11 kinda tells us the system is 12v. Thats why we all started talking 12v.

If the test light is acting as a jumper wire, pull the distributor and clean things up. The distributor hold down screw could also just be the problem, maybe its just not snug enough.