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02-16-2024, 03:36 PM | #21 |
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Re: Pressure Testing a Block
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02-16-2024, 04:24 PM | #22 | |
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Re: Pressure Testing a Block
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02-16-2024, 04:26 PM | #23 |
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Re: Pressure Testing a Block
Ah, makes sense.
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02-16-2024, 04:38 PM | #24 |
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Re: Pressure Testing a Block
Ok, good clarification. I never thought about pressure testing the combustion area,
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Owner/Operator of 'Jailbar Ranch' on the side of Mt. Pickett. Current stable consists of 1946 1/2 ton pickup turned woodie wagon with FH V8, 1947 Tonner Pickup (red) mostly stock with exception of a cummins 6at turbo diesel, 1946 Tonner Pickup (green) with 226 cu in 6 cyl flathead, 1979 Toyota landcruiser wagon, completely encased in 1947 Ford Jailbar sheet metal. Ok, cornbinder rear fenders..... 'Rusty ol' floorboards, hot on their feet' (Alan Jackson) |
02-16-2024, 04:39 PM | #25 |
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Re: Pressure Testing a Block
I only run the ceramic seal during the initial warm-up of the engine on the test stand - usually 15 minutes max. Then I immediately drain the water (when it is hot) and flush the engine/radiator with fresh water. If the block has a repair in it (like we're talking about), then I do this twice.
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02-16-2024, 06:43 PM | #26 |
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Re: Pressure Testing a Block
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02-16-2024, 06:52 PM | #27 | |
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Re: Pressure Testing a Block
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The only thing nice about being imperfect is the joy it brings to others.... "Silver rings, your butt! Them's washers!" "We shot our way out of that town for a dollar's worth of steel holes!" - from 'The Wild Bunch' - 1969 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7NReUd2_0u0 |
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02-17-2024, 06:20 AM | #28 |
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Re: Pressure Testing a Block
Excellent news
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02-17-2024, 09:11 AM | #29 |
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Re: Pressure Testing a Block
That's some excellent results! Tell us about the crack repair kit. Was this the first repair of this type you have done or are you an old hand at it? And now you plan to sleeve the cylinder? Thanks and congratulations on a job well done!
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Owner/Operator of 'Jailbar Ranch' on the side of Mt. Pickett. Current stable consists of 1946 1/2 ton pickup turned woodie wagon with FH V8, 1947 Tonner Pickup (red) mostly stock with exception of a cummins 6at turbo diesel, 1946 Tonner Pickup (green) with 226 cu in 6 cyl flathead, 1979 Toyota landcruiser wagon, completely encased in 1947 Ford Jailbar sheet metal. Ok, cornbinder rear fenders..... 'Rusty ol' floorboards, hot on their feet' (Alan Jackson) |
02-17-2024, 10:14 AM | #30 |
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Re: Pressure Testing a Block
It was my first attempt at repairing a cracked block. My long time machinist friend passed away a couple years ago and the machine shop he worked in didn’t want to touch it. And I understand, very shorthanded and no one with experience in doing this plus the fact they would rather spend time doing actual machine work. I had seen my friend repair several over the years using a Lock n Stitch pin kit. I know the owner and he said if I wanted to try it he would loan me the kit. That one cylinder has a pretty deep pit and the crack ran over into the cylinder a little bit so I’ll have a sleeve installed. I have a Kwik Way valve seat pocket cutter and with that I cleaned up the valve seat recess after installing the pins and now to install two new seats.
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02-18-2024, 12:44 PM | #31 |
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Re: Pressure Testing a Block
You might think about going a bit oversize on the seats - unless you can perfectly center your cutter mandrel and exactly set the cutter size. Are you using adjustable cutters or fixed ones? Make sure you have your seats "in hand" before doing the seat ring work.
You want about a .005 press fit. Do you have the good KwikWay pilot that picks up both the lifter bore and guide bore? |
02-18-2024, 01:26 PM | #32 |
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Re: Pressure Testing a Block
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02-18-2024, 03:48 PM | #33 | |
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Re: Pressure Testing a Block
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02-18-2024, 03:57 PM | #34 |
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Re: Pressure Testing a Block
A working pressure radiator cap can only sense the pressure where it is located (i.e. top tank). Pressures vary greatly though out the system. From a low pressure area before the water pump inlet, Ever see a collapsed lower hose? Or a spring inside the lower hose to prevent this? Water pump outlet flow is generally higher than flow through down stream restrictions (think thermostat, openings in block, gaskets, heads etc.) This causes high pressure in the block. After it passes the restrictions the pressure drops (now we are at the top tank). Current production engines can see over 100 psi with 30 psi caps.
All that being said the last Ford block testing requirements for water jackets and oil galley I remember were air under water at 30 psi with no more that 8 cc of air leak per minute. At one time it was 20 psi and 12 cc of air leak. This was for aluminum blocks but should carry over for cast iron. If it's going to leak you will find it at 20-30 psi, no need to go to 50 psi. Also, leak testing with high pressure air can be dangerous. Ever have a cap or plug blow off and fly across the room? Safer to test under water so the water contains the loose object. Or use a liquid, they are not compressible and if something comes loose the energy is dissipated quicker than all that compressed air. We used to pressure test cylinder heads with WD40. A cylinder similar to what is used on a port-a-power works for this. |
02-18-2024, 04:05 PM | #35 |
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Re: Pressure Testing a Block
What Flatjack was referring to was the compression pressure of a cylinder during the compression stroke. A fresh engine should see over 100 lbs easy. Faults in cracks work both ways.
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02-18-2024, 09:41 PM | #36 |
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Re: Pressure Testing a Block
Right on, Tim
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