The Ford Barn

ole_Bill · 08-20-2011, 09:51 AM

Got the two horns on my '36 sedan and wired. They squak for an instant when the button is pressed but do not blow. I suspect this is a grounding problem but the horns are wired correctly and screwed directly to the chassis on a clean ground. With two wires on the horn, presumably one hot and one ground, what do I need to do to get the horns to blow? BTW, both were bench tested and were fine.

Jack E/NJ · 08-20-2011, 10:34 AM

I'd recommend using a relay activated by your horn switch if you haven't done so already.

Jack E/NJ

jdl · 08-20-2011, 11:36 AM

here is a wiring diagram, hope it helps..

ken ct · 08-20-2011, 11:55 AM

Why is a relay needed ,never came with one from the factory?? ken ct. I have no relay on my 36 and thave been working for 25 yrs?

Kurt in NJ · 08-20-2011, 12:03 PM

The horn button makes the ground through the center contact in the light switch, if you take off the light switch and ground that contact ---if the horns work then you have a problem in the horn button-light rod, possibly a rusted spring under the button.
If that doesn't make a change you need to ground the horn at the horn connection.

I think the colors of the original wiring --yellow/green is from battery, and the blue/yellow goes to the horn contact (grounded to honk)

Jack E/NJ · 08-20-2011, 12:32 PM

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ken ct>>>I have no relay on my 36 and thave been working for 25 yrs? >>>

I guess you don't beep your horn too much, eh Ken? 8^) Relays save wear & tear on horn switch and are usually cheaper, easier to replace than the switch. I've seen some 30s and 40s horn setups come with and without them. If a horn switch fails to deliver full current to properly activate the horns, a new relay can often solve the problem.

Jack E/NJ

36Bill · 08-20-2011, 03:00 PM

Power goes to the horns so you can open them up, 1 screw on top, and find the power lead and then ground the other. If it beeps you have a ground problem. If it doesn't and you have power to the horn then you have a horn problem. I was able to clean the contacts and readjust the horn and get it working again. My horn pulls about 3 amps so I don't use a relay.

Bill

Terry,OH · 08-21-2011, 05:53 AM

It sounds as if your horns have power to them and your horn button is working, otherwise nothing would happen, but yours made some noise. The problem then is the horns them self, here is how they work. when power is applied to the horn through the horn button, the power passes through a closed electrical contact and then to a coil picking the coil up. When the coil picks up it mechanically moves the horn diaphragm and at the same time the electrical contact opens circuit causing the coil to drop out, when the coil drops out the contact closes again and the cycle repeats itself over and over very quickly. The result is the sound of the horn for as long as you apply the horn button. If the electrical contact is dirty and not closing properly the horns will not sound, if the contact does not open mechanically you may hear a slight noise and then nothing but the electrical circuit is energized and damage to any of it's components could happen.
Remove a horn and take the horn cover off and inspect the electrical contact and make sure they are closed and dirt and rust free could spray with an electrical cleaner), then with your hand squeeze the flat rectangular pole piece that is laminated down toward the electrical coil, watch the electrical contact as you depress the pole piece you should be able to see it just open. Most of the time the problem lies with dirt and loose rust around the electrical contact causing it not to close, or around the pole piece preventing it from moving fully. You can ignore the one other electrical device it is a capacitor soldered across the contact to eliminate arcing when the contacts open. You will be able to see adjustments that can be moved slightly (1/16 of a turn) adjusting the point the contacts open and close, and these adjustments also effect the horn tone and volume, get the horn to work first then adjust if necessary.
If your going to take the contact apart to clean make sure it is closed and opens properly before trying electrically.

31chevy · 08-21-2011, 06:21 AM

A womans non metallic nail file works well on the points.
Gary.

Mart · 08-21-2011, 09:35 AM

If working on the horns, it's worth temporarily stuffing some rag up the trumpets, the noise can get very wearing in close quarters when troubleshooting.
Mart.

Jack E/NJ · 08-21-2011, 10:52 AM

ole Bill said earlier>>>BTW, both were bench tested and were fine.>>>

Jack E/NJ

08-20-2011, 09:51 AM	#1
ole_Bill Member Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Chattanooga, TN Posts: 70	Making horns blow Got the two horns on my '36 sedan and wired. They squak for an instant when the button is pressed but do not blow. I suspect this is a grounding problem but the horns are wired correctly and screwed directly to the chassis on a clean ground. With two wires on the horn, presumably one hot and one ground, what do I need to do to get the horns to blow? BTW, both were bench tested and were fine. __________________ "I ain't no mechanic, my posts should make that obvious, I'm jus doin my best with what I got."

08-20-2011, 10:34 AM	#2
Jack E/NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 2,173	Re: Making horns blow I'd recommend using a relay activated by your horn switch if you haven't done so already. Jack E/NJ

08-20-2011, 11:36 AM	#3
jdl Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: California Central Coast Posts: 931	Re: Making horns blow here is a wiring diagram, hope it helps..

08-20-2011, 11:55 AM	#4
ken ct BANNED Join Date: May 2010 Location: stratford,ct Posts: 5,971	Re: Making horns blow Why is a relay needed ,never came with one from the factory?? ken ct. I have no relay on my 36 and thave been working for 25 yrs?

08-20-2011, 12:03 PM	#5
Kurt in NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: on the Littlefield Posts: 6,159	Re: Making horns blow The horn button makes the ground through the center contact in the light switch, if you take off the light switch and ground that contact ---if the horns work then you have a problem in the horn button-light rod, possibly a rusted spring under the button. If that doesn't make a change you need to ground the horn at the horn connection. I think the colors of the original wiring --yellow/green is from battery, and the blue/yellow goes to the horn contact (grounded to honk)

08-20-2011, 12:32 PM	#6
Jack E/NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 2,173	Re: Making horns blow Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) ken ct>>>I have no relay on my 36 and thave been working for 25 yrs? >>> I guess you don't beep your horn too much, eh Ken? 8^) Relays save wear & tear on horn switch and are usually cheaper, easier to replace than the switch. I've seen some 30s and 40s horn setups come with and without them. If a horn switch fails to deliver full current to properly activate the horns, a new relay can often solve the problem. Jack E/NJ

08-20-2011, 03:00 PM	#7
36Bill Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Oregon Posts: 315	Re: Making horns blow Power goes to the horns so you can open them up, 1 screw on top, and find the power lead and then ground the other. If it beeps you have a ground problem. If it doesn't and you have power to the horn then you have a horn problem. I was able to clean the contacts and readjust the horn and get it working again. My horn pulls about 3 amps so I don't use a relay. Bill

08-21-2011, 05:53 AM	#8
Terry,OH Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 4,753	Re: Making horns blow It sounds as if your horns have power to them and your horn button is working, otherwise nothing would happen, but yours made some noise. The problem then is the horns them self, here is how they work. when power is applied to the horn through the horn button, the power passes through a closed electrical contact and then to a coil picking the coil up. When the coil picks up it mechanically moves the horn diaphragm and at the same time the electrical contact opens circuit causing the coil to drop out, when the coil drops out the contact closes again and the cycle repeats itself over and over very quickly. The result is the sound of the horn for as long as you apply the horn button. If the electrical contact is dirty and not closing properly the horns will not sound, if the contact does not open mechanically you may hear a slight noise and then nothing but the electrical circuit is energized and damage to any of it's components could happen. Remove a horn and take the horn cover off and inspect the electrical contact and make sure they are closed and dirt and rust free could spray with an electrical cleaner), then with your hand squeeze the flat rectangular pole piece that is laminated down toward the electrical coil, watch the electrical contact as you depress the pole piece you should be able to see it just open. Most of the time the problem lies with dirt and loose rust around the electrical contact causing it not to close, or around the pole piece preventing it from moving fully. You can ignore the one other electrical device it is a capacitor soldered across the contact to eliminate arcing when the contacts open. You will be able to see adjustments that can be moved slightly (1/16 of a turn) adjusting the point the contacts open and close, and these adjustments also effect the horn tone and volume, get the horn to work first then adjust if necessary. If your going to take the contact apart to clean make sure it is closed and opens properly before trying electrically.

08-21-2011, 06:21 AM	#9
31chevy Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Lake City Mi. Posts: 807	Re: Making horns blow A womans non metallic nail file works well on the points. Gary.

08-21-2011, 09:35 AM	#10
Mart Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Solihull, England. Posts: 8,756	Re: Making horns blow If working on the horns, it's worth temporarily stuffing some rag up the trumpets, the noise can get very wearing in close quarters when troubleshooting. Mart.

08-21-2011, 10:52 AM	#11
Jack E/NJ Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 2,173	Re: Making horns blow ole Bill said earlier>>>BTW, both were bench tested and were fine.>>> Jack E/NJ