removing studs

[OLD AS I]

Whats the best way to remove rusted, seized or frozen studs, particularly head studs, am about to do head studs, heads are removed, studs left in block, want to avoid breaking them off

[wbedwards]

Soak the studs in PB Blaster penetrating oil and use heat an lots of patience. That's about all you can do. Don't try to horse them off but work them back and forth while alternating oil and heat. If you break one you can drill and tap. Fortunately, I haven't broken one yet, but I kept oil on mine for days before I removed them.

[Kurt in NJ]

After removing studs many ways, working hard to not break them, drilling out broke ones I have come to the conclusion that if they don't just unscrew break them off, tig weld a washer,then a nut and pop the piece out with the impact---then 9 out of 10 come out instantly,no thread damage, the 10th needs the washer method again---havn't had a 3rde time attempt needed

I came to this conclusion after working for hours and hours trying to get studs out whole, multiple heatings, soakings, picking debris out of the root of the stud/block interface, oil,bees wax etc ---then the rusted thin stud breaks and the welded washer method is used ----now it takes less than 1 hour, unscrew what unscrews, break the others off
the mig welder doesn't work as well as the tig, may take more attempts

[JSeery]

If you break one here are some suggestions. http://www.fordgarage.com/pages/studremoval.htm

Edit: same approach as Kurt!

[BILL WZOREK]

Some on here swear by heating then use wax and when hot touch wax to stud at base and let it wick in and cool the believers clam it's the only way Barr none.
Remember the stud holes have a different thread then standard don't use standard thread tap / maybe others will chime in with what to use.

[texas webb]

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Can a thread chaser be used on the holes?One that doesn't cut the threads,seems there was a thread about this awhile back.

[wbedwards]

I don't know about a store bought thread chaser except for a tap, but for oddball stuff I have taken a stud with good threads and ground a cutting edge into them and chased threads that way. Be sure and cut enough room for the junk/chips to go if you use this method.

[KiWinUS]

& then blow them out with gas torch !Break em off drill center with 1/8" hole .
Done dozens over the years = quickest easiest no hassle way . Will not hurt threads . This works for any stud that does "NOT" go in a blind hole.

[Bubsyouruncle]

Ages ago, probably 1958, I was removing the studs from a 33 to 35 block and managed to snap two or three of them. An old timer where I was working that summer told me to bring it in. He was able to wash out the broken off steel studs from the cast iron block using an acetylene torch. We drilled a hole through each stud to get started. Didn't hurt the threads in the block one bit.

Needless to say I was deeply impressed.

Don't know where you would go to find THAT sort of competence today.

[Ralph Moore]

Originally Posted by BILL WZOREK

Some on here swear by heating then use wax and when hot touch wax to stud at base and let it wick in and cool the believers clam it's the only way Barr none.
Remember the stud holes have a different thread then standard don't use standard thread tap / maybe others will chime in with what to use.

I've also had very good results with a little heat and some paraffin wax as well.
Amazing what it will release without effort.

[wbedwards]

Originally Posted by Bubsyouruncle

Ages ago, probably 1958, I was removing the studs from a 33 to 35 block and managed to snap two or three of them. An old timer where I was working that summer told me to bring it in. He was able to wash out the broken off steel studs from the cast iron block using an acetylene torch. We drilled a hole through each stud to get started. Didn't hurt the threads in the block one bit.

Needless to say I was deeply impressed.

Don't know where you would go to find THAT sort of competence today.

I have heard of that also. It would take a lot of guts and practice to want to heat one up that much.

[supereal]

Yes, it does take practice, but heat is the most successful method. It must be an acetylene torch, not a propane type. It also works well on the exhaust manifold bolts, which almost always refuse to come loose.

[jonf]

I tried the PB Blaster, then heat and candle wax with no luck. First 2 I broke I tried the weld a nut and washer on - one came out. Two of the three that were left were drilled with an endmill and the threads were picked out. The last one got a heli-coil.

All in all, the best way for me was a stud extractor that gripped the shank of the stud and grabbed hard enough to not slip when turned very carefully with an impact wrench set on low. I bought the stud extractor from Northern Tools and it still shows in their catalog.

[Ronnie]

Originally Posted by jonf

I tried the PB Blaster, then heat and candle wax with no luck. First 2 I broke I tried the weld a nut and washer on - one came out. Two of the three that were left were drilled with an endmill and the threads were picked out. The last one got a heli-coil.

All in all, the best way for me was a stud extractor that gripped the shank of the stud and grabbed hard enough to not slip when turned very carefully with an impact wrench set on low. I bought the stud extractor from Northern Tools and it still shows in their catalog.

What king of welder are u using?
I have done hundreds and welding hasn't failed yet.Sizes from 6/32" to 1" all came out.If you are not an experienced welder you could face some difficulty.A tig is the best way but can be done with a mig. Tig will work well even if the stud is broken below the deck.

R