Pricing for a rebuilt engine - been sitting for a time

[SHEC]

I have an opportunity to buy a completely rebuilt engine that has been sitting sealed up for over 30 years. I personally knew the ace Model A mechanic that rebuilt it as our family Fords engine was rebuilt by him in 1978. A very well known and respected Model A Ford mechanic his entire life.
Our “A” has been trouble free for all these years and has nearly 25,000 miles on it all without removing a single shim or any other major issue.

Question is: what is the current value for a fresh engine such as this? The engine is free in rotation following a shot of oil down each cylinder. It was turned just 1/2 revolution to protect all the “new” babbit etc. Clean as a shiny new penny under the scope.

I value this community and the sage advice offered here. I don’t need an engine but don’t want to pass up a proven product from the past.....
Thanks in advance for your input. ✔️

Here it is all these years later.....

[J Franklin]

What price is it being offered at?

[SHEC]

No $ number given as yet. I was made aware of the engine and it’s been offered for sale to me first. I can tell you the 1970’s pricing - he averaged around $490.00. for good friends.
His work included taking weight off the flywheel, providing an oil pressure line to the center main and never went over .30 bore.... and a proven jobber for all the fresh babbit.

[J Franklin]

It would cost +- $ 3500 to have a good rebuild done today, but then there would be fresh work and a warrantee. I would ask what the seller wants for it. I am one that doesn't make offers unprompted. If I had stumbled accross it, and it wasn't a friend selling it, I would start at around $900

[mercman from oz]

Pricing for a rebuilt engine - been sitting for a time - SHEC

[SHEC]

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Originally Posted by J Franklin

It would cost +- $ 3500 to have a good rebuild done today, but then there would be fresh work and a warrantee. I would ask what the seller wants for it. I am one that doesn't make offers unprompted. If I had stumbled accross it, and it wasn't a friend selling it, I would start at around $900

Copy that.....
Sitting as a “dry”engine, that is my concern. We did rotate it wet as noted.... 1/2 turn. It will be me making up my mind for something I don’t need right now but if the number is right, perhaps it would be worth a shot at for a decent number. But what is that number .....?
Thank you for the input, much appreciated!

[SHEC]

Originally Posted by mercman from oz

Pricing for a rebuilt engine - been sitting for a time - SHEC

Sorry, it’s not gonna fit your beautiful Merc. my friend... 😎

[ronn]

2000. is a fair number- I sell old runners for 800.


do you want the "steal" or be fair? sounds like this motor is better then the 4k rebuilds out there now.

[Kevin in NJ]

Not enough information.

Sorry, but the reality is without knowing what was done to the engine you do not know the value. Some builders did cheap work that worked well enough to putt putt around and others that had some clue. Which one did the work on this engine.

Did they use lead babbitt or close to correct tin based babbitt. Lead babbitt is real easy to pour. Was everything balanced, that is did the rods, crank a flywheel get balanced? Were the main ground on center so the flywheel is in the correct place?
Was a good used cam and nice used valves used?

Since it was not run and it sat the surfaces inside would have had condensation and the pan needs to come off for an inspection and I guess the valve cover.

So what I am getting at is you are taking a risk in buying this engine. How much of a risk are you willing to take?
This all really becomes an exercise between your wallet and your risk level. If you want to assume it was built like shops today with it all balanced and such then you compare it to a $6000 engine. Personally my experience from taking apart many engines and hearing the problems of 'rebuilt' engines I make assumption that anything could be wrong and give a low price unless I have proof of better construction.

I would NOT pay anything over junk pricing without at least taking the pan off and inspecting it. I would also want to see the valve cover side too. Plus look inside the spark holes.

[Big hammer]

It needs to come apart!. You know that that's why you only turned it 1/2 turn. All of the exposed machined parts have rusted, unless everything was coated with steam clylinder oil, it needs to come apart.

[ronn]

It needs to come apart!. You know that that's why you only turned it 1/2 turn. All of the exposed machined parts have rusted, unless everything was coated with steam clylinder oil, it needs to come apart.





if thats the case, then every restored A out there that hasnt been run in 20 yrs needs to be torn apart.


I dont agree............

[History]

He didn't say he couldn't turn it more than a half round, ha said that he ONLY turned it half a round. That may have been a cautious move on his part to make sure he didn't damage. Your point is valid if that's all he could make it turn. I need this engine if you don't buy OP. ��

[nkaminar]

SHEC said that it was rebuilt by a reputable mechanic and that he rebuilt the engine he is driving now that has been reliable. So there is good assumption that it is a good engine. I would go with Ronn and offer $2,000, but try and get a price from the seller first.

My preference would be to at least take the pan off to peek inside to see if any rust has moved in. If not that then use a borescope to peek inside. Also peek inside the cylinders for the same reason. There is no need to completely disassemble the engine.

[goodcar]

The seller's price depends on how bad he wants to get rid of it. Your offer depends on how much you trust the rebuilder. There are many horror stories of beautifully painted, restored Model As and engines only to be revealed later that they are expensive nightmares. If this engine is as advertised, a fair price would be $3,500 but since you are taking a risk, I would say a fair offer would be $1,200 to $1,750.

[Jim Brierley]

Ask the builder what he used to prevent rusting or pre-lube everything, if any doubt, I would pull the pan, "just in case". Just before starting the engine, remove the dist, pour 1 quart of oil down the hole, re-insert the dist and start the engine. This gets oil to the mains. Everything else will get oil immediately upon start-up because the rods throw a mist that you wouldn't believe.

[SHEC]

Originally Posted by Jim Brierley

Ask the builder what he used to prevent rusting or pre-lube everything, if any doubt, I would pull the pan, "just in case". Just before starting the engine, remove the dist, pour 1 quart of oil down the hole, re-insert the dist and start the engine. This gets oil to the mains. Everything else will get oil immediately upon start-up because the rods throw a mist that you wouldn't believe.

Unfortunately he is long gone and we truly miss him.
The oil checklist you noted is exactly what he told me to do and I will most certainly pull the pan if I close a deal on it.

Thanks to all for your input... much appreciated ✔️🇺🇸

[SHEC]

So noted....
A fair price is all I ask. You have provided solid and current numbers✔️
Thanks

[SHEC]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

SHEC said that it was rebuilt by a reputable mechanic and that he rebuilt the engine he is driving now that has been reliable. So there is good assumption that it is a good engine. I would go with Ronn and offer $2,000, but try and get a price from the seller first.

My preference would be to at least take the pan off to peek inside to see if any rust has moved in. If not that then use a borescope to peek inside. Also peek inside the cylinders for the same reason. There is no need to completely disassemble the engine.

We did borescope it as noted . Clean as can be as it is garage stored with temp control. This would be easier if I needed the engine but the original engine rebuilt by the same mechanic is running strong as ever.

[WHN]

[QUOTE=ronn;2072752]It needs to come apart!. You know that that's why you only turned it 1/2 turn. All of the exposed machined parts have rusted, unless everything was coated with steam clylinder oil, it needs to come apart.



I have a Model A that sat from the end of WWII until 1980. It started right up and still is running strong today with nothing added but a new head, rebuilt distributor, leak less water pump, clutch, pressure plate, and new timing gear. Oh! Also new Zenith carburetor.

No smoke, no knocks or valve noise, compression in mid 60’s.

It’s like going to the casino, put your money down and see what happens. You could be a winner, but you have to bet to know. With what you are saying, I would take a chance.

Good luck.

[J Franklin]

It might be interesting to know just why it has sat so long. I would want to know what the seller is looking to get for it. If it is a kid that just put a 350 CI in the car and doesn't want to trip over this engine I would start as low as possible and watch his face for clues since he won't give any other indications of worth to him.

[SHEC]

Originally Posted by ronn

2000. is a fair number- I sell old runners for 800.


do you want the "steal" or be fair? sounds like this motor is better then the 4k rebuilds out there now.

Solid reasoning and more than fair as far as pricing....
Many thanks.

[SHEC]

[QUOTE=WHN;2072876]

Originally Posted by ronn

It needs to come apart!. You know that that's why you only turned it 1/2 turn. All of the exposed machined parts have rusted, unless everything was coated with steam clylinder oil, it needs to come apart.



I have a Model A that sat from the end of WWII until 1980. It started right up and still is running strong today with nothing added but a new head, rebuilt distributor, leak less water pump, clutch, pressure plate, and new timing gear. Oh! Also new Zenith carburetor.

No smoke, no knocks or valve noise, compression in mid 60’s.

It’s like going to the casino, put your money down and see what happens. You could be a winner, but you have to bet to know. With what you are saying, I would take a chance.

Good luck.

Thanks..... I also had a Town Sedan that sat for decades and I ( then a 14 year old kid) got it running without any nightmares. The car went through 4 floods to boot!

“You pay your money and take your chances” . I hope to get back over there soon maybe tomorrow and see what he really needs for it. He bought it as a back up from a solid reputable builder. We both still have this gentleman’s engines running in our Fords. Mine has been solid since ‘78.

[SHEC]

Originally Posted by ronn

It needs to come apart!. You know that that's why you only turned it 1/2 turn. All of the exposed machined parts have rusted, unless everything was coated with steam clylinder oil, it needs to come apart.





if thats the case, then every restored A out there that hasnt been run in 20 yrs needs to be torn apart.


I dont agree............

✔️

[Dennis Pereira]

If you have the loose change I would buy it for insurance . Its worth what ever makes you feel good . Happy Motoring

[CarlG]

$500 would cover the original cost.

[SHEC]

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Originally Posted by Dennis Pereira

If you have the loose change I would buy it for insurance . Its worth what ever makes you feel good . Happy Motoring

Time to clean out the sofa for loose change maybe. It would be a valued back up engine only - on the bench again playing the same part it has been playing with the current owner. An insurance policy so to speak.....

Great pic of your A Model Ford .

[SHEC]

Originally Posted by CarlG

$500 would cover the original cost.

Yes with $10.00 to spare ....

[eagle]

I bought a rebabbitted and rebuilt short block engine a few years ago at a swap meet. I have not yet, but plan on pulling it apart and checking tolerances etc. Without knowing who did the work or anything else, I'd plan on checking everything before putting it in service.

[old ugly]

if it is completely rebuilt including babbet that is an expensive rebuild.
but you need to know what has been done inside there. some will say rebuild and it has only seen a can of spray paint.

I'm doing mine rite now and its going to be north of $5500cnd

[burner31]

Short answer...Take it...hurry...do it now

[SHEC]

Thankfully I personally knew the builder and we are still using the engine he rebuilt for our car back in ‘78. I saw him working personally work on various engines and many times assisted in some ways. He was a true professional and a great friend/mentor.

So since I don’t need it at this point the engine would continue to sit on the stand as it has for so long. It was purchased by the present owner for a project never completed. ......
My thoughts: buy it, pull the pan and make certain all is still well (it checks out visually and also by interior scope). Then button it up and perhaps ( here is where I could use input) fill it with some fresh oil and turn it over. Keeping it wet on the interior to include the quart going s down the distributor hole for the bearings.
Good idea?

[SHEC]

Originally Posted by old ugly

if it is completely rebuilt including babbet that is an expensive rebuild.
but you need to know what has been done inside there. some will say rebuild and it has only seen a can of spray paint.

I'm doing mine rite now and its going to be north of $5500cnd

Best of luck with your project. It has been decades since we rebuilt our A. I can only imagine ( and you are providing $$ monetary proof) that things have gone up considerably since the 1970’s .
All the best ✔️

[SHEC]

Originally Posted by burner31

Short answer...Take it...hurry...do it now

Snitch it? 😂
I don’t think that’s in my game plan.... but .....?

[SHEC]

Sorry for leaving this story for a bit but now I’m back. Sometimes life gets in the way of our A’s.
An update on the engine and it is good I believe. I was quoted a price $1500.00 and this price is very realistic compared to a one time asking price of $3900.00. I was told he offered it to others at the higher price and obviously no takers so it must be time to let it go I suppose.

I personally have been downsizing some of my goods, but this engine is different and may need to come over to my place. If I do so would it be wise to get it wet with fresh oil and leave it sealed while also turning it over as a maintenance procedure? I value your input...
My thanks in advance. ✔️🇺🇸

[nkaminar]

Here is an idea. It is just an idea. I occasionally see cars for sale that are in good shape but have a broken engine or a missing engine. Buy the engine and the car and put 2 and 2 together. I know you are downsizing but maybe one of the grandkids would help and end up with the car. Or sell it. I think in this case the sum total would be worth more than the parts.

[ronn]

1500 is a great deal. buy it and consider yourself lucky!

[Mister Moose]

I stored my engine (unintentionally) from 1980 when it was overhauled by a well known shop until restoration neared completion in 1998. In an enclosed residential garage. No disassembly, and it has had no issues... except

Mice got into the water jacket through the opening in the head just like yours has. The head was full of seeds and hickory nuts. It isn't just rust you need to worry about. My head had to come off and the mess got cleaned out, but I suspect some crud is still in there, it runs warmer than other As in the summer.

It isn't just corrosion and build quality you need to worry about.

[eagle]

$1500 seems like a good deal to me too, knowing what you do about the builder. I bought a brand new engine, NOT model A, that had been sitting for 40 years in a crate. I just overfilled the crankcase with oil until it was completely full, put some lube in the cylinders, then carefully and slowly turned it over by hand until I felt it was in everything, then drained down to normal level and started. Not sure if it was necessary but made me feel better.

[old ugly]

Originally Posted by Mister Moose

I stored my engine (unintentionally) from 1980 when it was overhauled by a well known shop until restoration neared completion in 1998. In an enclosed residential garage. No disassembly, and it has had no issues... except

Mice got into the water jacket through the opening in the head just like yours has. The head was full of seeds and hickory nuts. It isn't just rust you need to worry about. My head had to come off and the mess got cleaned out, but I suspect some crud is still in there, it runs warmer than other As in the summer.

It isn't just corrosion and build quality you need to worry about.

I was working on a 27 Chrysler for some people. it hadn't ran for a more than 5 years. i did all the checking and fluids and started it. i ran it for about 10 minutes, the shop was smelling like over cooked/burnt oat meal breakfast. mice had filled the muffler with seeds from the farm. the whole shop floor was covered with seeds that had sprayed out the tail pipe.

[Gene F]

Offer them $500. When you need it, pull the dist and pour a quart down that hole (this takes a while). Tope off the oil (actually change it) Pull the plugss, put a tablespoon of ATF down there. Spin the starter a few reviolutions. Next day put the plus in, and the distribustor. Fire it up and enjoy it.

Don't over complicate it, just enjoy it.

[goodcar]

Originally Posted by Gene F

Offer them $500. When you need it, pull the dist and pour a quart down that hole (this takes a while). Tope off the oil (actually change it) Pull the plugss, put a tablespoon of ATF down there. Spin the starter a few reviolutions. Next day put the plus in, and the distribustor. Fire it up and enjoy it.

Don't over complicate it, just enjoy it.

If as advertised, this engine is certainly worth the $1500 asking price. Offering $500 is an insult.

[SHEC]

Thanks to all that were kind enough to respond. Agreed the price is more than fair as I did know the builder and we are still enjoying the fruits of his work 43 years later.

With what many have said, it sounds as though it would be wise to pull the pan and double check the interior in person (beyond the scopes limits), then seal it up to ensure no critters can do any damage. Smart and cautious ... I like that. When and if I need it, others have stated that with good preparation the engine should be good to go. Very grateful to have this site and the experience that goes with it. I have been wrenching for over 60 years and hopefully I give a few more “turns” to go.
Thank you !

[SHEC]

Originally Posted by goodcar

If as advertised, this engine is certainly worth the $1500 asking price. Offering $500 is an insult.

Thank you for the sage input. ✔️

[SHEC]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

Here is an idea. It is just an idea. I occasionally see cars for sale that are in good shape but have a broken engine or a missing engine. Buy the engine and the car and put 2 and 2 together. I know you are downsizing but maybe one of the grandkids would help and end up with the car. Or sell it. I think in this case the sum total would be worth more than the parts.

I like the idea in fact I have done that in the past..... but for now those days are behind me. Wish that was not true as it was fun and I did make a couple of $$ along the way. More important to me back then was that I saved a car/truck and kept a good machine on the road.

Thanks and continued good luck with your projects.

[SHEC]

Originally Posted by CarlG

$500 would cover the original cost.

And nearly the cost of a Ford back in the day 😂

[SHEC]

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Originally Posted by burner31

Short answer...Take it...hurry...do it now

✔️ Agreed.I’m gonna do it..

[Bob Bidonde]

Offer $2000

[goodcar]

Originally Posted by SHEC

Thank you for the sage input. ✔️

I apologize for the blunt remark but I just don't believe in taking advantage of someone just because I can, much less advising someone else to do it. I'm not a rich person and I'm ok with that. I just want to be treated fairly.

[SHEC]

I agree with you. Fairness in compensation and all that goes with it. I sleep well all through the night as I try to treat all with respect and fairness thus the clear conscience. . The price was extended to me and I believe it to be a special consideration so I will go with this deal.

In my opinion your comment was not blunt but a simple plain truth. Bottom line, both sides should be happy. Thanks again goodcar
Be well -

[SHEC]

Originally Posted by eagle

$1500 seems like a good deal to me too, knowing what you do about the builder. I bought a brand new engine, NOT model A, that had been sitting for 40 years in a crate. I just overfilled the crankcase with oil until it was completely full, put some lube in the cylinders, then carefully and slowly turned it over by hand until I felt it was in everything, then drained down to normal level and started. Not sure if it was necessary but made me feel better.

Good approach and I’m glad it worked out well for you.✔️

[goodcar]

Originally Posted by SHEC

I agree with you. Fairness in compensation and all that goes with it. I sleep well all through the night as I try to treat all with respect and fairness thus the clear conscience. . The price was extended to me and I believe it to be a special consideration so I will go with this deal.

In my opinion your comment was not blunt but a simple plain truth. Bottom line, both sides should be happy. Thanks again goodcar
Be well -

Kind of off the subject but a year ago my car died and I called a tow to deliver to my home. Cost was $90. Later determined the car needed to go to the shop. The mechanic's son and friend showed up with an old truck and trailer. After the work was done, the mechanic charged me $40 for the trailering. Instead of the $40, I paid them $90 same as the tow company. I know these two work hard and have families to feed. It's times like these that I am reminded of my own family of seven growing up in rural Nebraska during some lean times in the fifties and sixties. A lot of good people helped us out back then. Now that I'm able, I try to pass on the good deeds to others. Thank you for your support.

[WHN]

Originally Posted by goodcar

Kind of off the subject but a year ago my car died and I called a tow to deliver to my home. Cost was $90. Later determined the car needed to go to the shop. The mechanic's son and friend showed up with an old truck and trailer. After the work was done, the mechanic charged me $40 for the trailering. Instead of the $40, I paid them $90 same as the tow company. I know these two work hard and have families to feed. It's times like these that I am reminded of my own family of seven growing up in rural Nebraska during some lean times in the fifties and sixties. A lot of good people helped us out back then. Now that I'm able, I try to pass on the good deeds to others. Thank you for your support.

I like your style! Good for you.

[hazelhoff]

Sell it to a European. A fully rebuilt engine would be around 4,500.- euros. Equals some 5,000,- US dollars

[McMimmcs]

Originally Posted by hazelhoff

Sell it to a European. A fully rebuilt engine would be around 4,500.- euros. Equals some 5,000,- US dollars

Who pays the astronomical shipping and handling fees ?

[1crosscut]

So if and when you buy it and open it up for a look. Take the time to pull the main caps and rod caps off to look at the condition of the babbit and to measure the clearances. Take pictures and document the measurements and keep them with the engine. Pull the valve cover off and again take pictures and document the valve clearances and weather or not they are standard or adjustable.

Time and memory can fade on stuff like this but documentation and a stash of pictures placed in the neck of either the coolant inlet or outlet will be a good thing years from now.

[SHEC]

Originally Posted by goodcar

Kind of off the subject but a year ago my car died and I called a tow to deliver to my home. Cost was $90. Later determined the car needed to go to the shop. The mechanic's son and friend showed up with an old truck and trailer. After the work was done, the mechanic charged me $40 for the trailering. Instead of the $40, I paid them $90 same as the tow company. I know these two work hard and have families to feed. It's times like these that I am reminded of my own family of seven growing up in rural Nebraska during some lean times in the fifties and sixties. A lot of good people helped us out back then. Now that I'm able, I try to pass on the good deeds to others. Thank you for your support.

I like your thinking and your math $$ !
Nothing more needs to be said as we are cut from the same cloth. Pass it on, healthy tradition of looking out for the folks that came before us and gave us a hand so that we can extend the same to our neighbors and friends today. All good to me and reflects well in this Model A Ford hobby.... it is not all about the money. The gentleman that built these engines we are discussing was a solid guy, a true mentor and friend to me and so many others.... he would agree 100% with this discussion.
Carry on and let’s keep the Ford road running smoothly. Thanks again ✔️🇺🇸

**** As as a reminder of our engine rebuild in ‘78. I paid for that rebuild by painting my friend the “A” mechanics small house. He supplied the paint - I supplied my youthful skills . The engine is still motoring us along nicely ✔️

[SHEC]

Originally Posted by 1crosscut

So if and when you buy it and open it up for a look. Take the time to pull the main caps and rod caps off to look at the condition of the babbit and to measure the clearances. Take pictures and document the measurements and keep them with the engine. Pull the valve cover off and again take pictures and document the valve clearances and weather or not they are standard or adjustable.

Time and memory can fade on stuff like this but documentation and a stash of pictures placed in the neck of either the coolant inlet or outlet will be a good thing years from now.

Agreed 1000%. The years roll fast but the proverbial “one picture is worth a thousand words” - certainly holds true in this case. Solid advice - my thanks.

[SHEC]

Originally Posted by Bob Bidonde

Offer $2000

The agreed price is now $1500.00
Too good to pass up ......

[McMimmcs]

Originally Posted by SHEC

The agreed price is now $1500.00
Too good to pass up ......

On the surface a wise move on your part.

[SHEC]

Originally Posted by McMimmcs

On the surface a wise move on your part.

Thank you...
I certainly hope so and time will tell but I feel good about it. Take care ✔️🇺🇸

[SHEC]

Well folks the engine is a gem and man am I glad to have it in the garage....
Sweet and clean interior and bottom end, she oiled up very well. I have read several items here on this site with a need for a new or fresh engine.
I pray the original engine continues to do its duty as it has for over four decades.
Perhaps I will make this backup available to someone that truly needs it to keep a Ford on the road.
A belated Happy New Year one and all ✔️🇺🇸

[ronn]

congrats! Nice thread and interesting read...........

[2935ford]

Originally Posted by Big hammer

It needs to come apart!. You know that that's why you only turned it 1/2 turn. All of the exposed machined parts have rusted, unless everything was coated with steam clylinder oil, it needs to come apart.

I'm with Big hammer.........it needs to come apart. Then you know exactly what you are dealing with.

[ronn]

I'm with Big hammer.........it needs to come apart. Then you know exactly what you are dealing with.



and that is why some of you need to pay 7k for a rebuilt engine........

[old31]

Originally Posted by goodcar

I apologize for the blunt remark but I just don't believe in taking advantage of someone just because I can, much less advising someone else to do it. I'm not a rich person and I'm ok with that. I just want to be treated fairly.

That is not blunt. I am with you a 100% on your comments. Nicely said.

[SHEC]

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Originally Posted by ronn

congrats! Nice thread and interesting read...........

Thanks for the kind words and I wish you the best Model A’ing for the New Year. ✔️🇺🇸

[SHEC]

Greetings folks and an update on the rebuilt engine. She is doing great with nearly a year of service and all is well.
I did not disassemble it as I knew the original gentleman mechanic that rebuilt it ( knew him all my life), I’ve also been running our original engine that he rebuilt in the late ‘70’s and it is going strong also.
You go with what you know and utilize the lessons from those you have trusted… it all seems to work out well.
Hoping the same for you and yours on the Ford road.

[CT Jack]

Based on your description of how it was stored I don't see any issues with internal corrosion. There is probably a small film of oxidation/rust on components not coated with oil but this should have no adverse affects on operation. As has been previously mentioned in some of the posts the type of babbitt used, machining tolerances, undetected block or head cracks are the areas that I would question. You say you knew the mechanic who did the work very well. This person could have been the best but sometimes the nature of the beast he was working on is not always fully understood.
My guess is this engine will probably start up on the first try. A fair asking price would be $1500.

[SHEC]

Originally Posted by CT Jack

Based on your description of how it was stored I don't see any issues with internal corrosion. There is probably a small film of oxidation/rust on components not coated with oil but this should have no adverse affects on operation. As has been previously mentioned in some of the posts the type of babbitt used, machining tolerances, undetected block or head cracks are the areas that I would question. You say you knew the mechanic who did the work very well. This person could have been the best but sometimes the nature of the beast he was working on is not always fully understood.
My guess is this engine will probably start up on the first try. A fair asking price would be $1500.

Well yes it did start up on the first try and has been running strong now for many months. Oil changed - clean and metal free, three times on the head re torque procedures as the builder taught me in the 1970’s, after short warm up and cool down periods. This engine actuality is very similar to the original engine as far as the rebuild. .30 over on bore, cleaned up beautifully and it actually pulls stronger than the original engine he rebuilt for the car.
Very pleased and feel quite fortunate to have the power and reliability of two of my mentors engines… what a blessed Model A Ford life!

[jerrytocci]

$1,200 and don't open it

[SHEC]

Originally Posted by jerrytocci

$1,200 and don't open it

Thanks for the input ….. the engine has been in our Coupe for many months now and it is on the open road. As I wrote before, I didn’t open it up as I prepped the engine very well before firing it up. A true gift and a solid proven value at our original agreed to price.

As you can see from the the thread photo it was even prepped very well and all his engines look great while doing the job. Solid work and value all around. Well thanks for checking in…. the sun is out and I’m off for another drive today checking in on my buddies and their Winter projects.
All the best ✔️🇺🇸