New Owner, Lots of Questions

[Brambleworth]

Recently bought a 29 Roadster Pickup and have been working to get it properly sorted out. Car was restored in the 1980's and is in running order but has been sitting for a while.

1. Changed leaking Tillotson carb for new one, seems to backfire out the carb when I change gears at high revs or go down a steep hill. Followed the book on settings but didn't have this issue with old carb that was leaking at the bowl gasket. Car runs strong with mixture knob at a half turn, quarter turn reduces power dramatically.

2. I have some oil coming out at the shift lever just above the floor. Typical or do I need to replace a seal there? Do I have to remove the tower?

3. I had foaming issues with the antifreeze when going uphill, I have since dumped it and flushed 4 times, lots of sediment came out through the petcock and now I have distilled water and Water Wetter in it. Works fine now. What will I use in winter? Can someone recommend an Antifreeze that is low foaming or give me another idea. I am running an original pump and radiator.

4. 2nd Gear pushes back and pops out of gear when cruising or going up hills.

5. How do you remove tires from the wheels? The old way with bars or possibly with a tire machine. I was thinking about powder coating my wheels this winter but am worried that mounting tires with bars will chip the edges.

6. Will be tackling a front end wobble soon, starting with a right kingpin that is loose on the bottom.

7. I assume regular modern day wheel grease is OK for the suspension and steering.

8. How do you grease the waterpump? Just push some in with your finger? I have the proper grease for this.

9. It appears that I can install rods on the doors and snap side windows on in the winter. Is this correct?

I have a service shop although we have never serviced an A but should be able to figure it out along with the manuals.

Thanks for your help,

Ted

[charlesea]

#5 question. You can take about a foot of heater hose & cut into 3" lingths, cut one side & put over the rim, Saves chipping paint or powder coat. Use regular tire tools, at least 2. Walk around the tire to break the bead. Carefully remove the tube. You can use talcum powder or a light coat of vasoline around the bead helps get the tire back onto the rim.

[heneste]

For #4 I've heard that excessive wear on the shift forks can sometimes cause the shifter to jump out of second gear.

For #8, There should be grease fittings on the front and rear of the impeller shaft. If it's the original pump, both fittings should be greased slightly (Not too much or you could have grease causing water restrictions in the system).
The leakless pumps are either non-greasing or some have one of the fittings as show and the other one requiring greasing.

I have a leakless one from Snyders that has the front grease fitting just present for show and the rear fitting requires greasing every 500 miles. The rear fitting has a screw on cap to prevent dirt etc. into the fitting also.

Best of luck with the project!

[1930artdeco]

Welcome to the club Ted, I think you will find all your answers here and then you will enjoy your car immensley.

Mike

[sonny30coupe]

use a plastic trash bag between the wheel and tire, it will slide right on, then pull out the bag.

[columbiA]

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#5 Re&re tires on an "A" is very easy.I do it by leaving the wheel on the car.Let the air out,break the bead with your hands & U can often pull the bead over the rim with out a tire iron.Pull the tube out,then work the inner bead off.To put the tire on,use some dish detergent on the bead & it should go on by hand.Use talcum (baby) powder on the tube.Inflate to about 20 #,let air out then inflate again to 35# & you are done. #4 Popping out of 2nd-The splines on back of main drive gear may be worn on a slight taper where it fits into the internal splines on the 2nd speed sliding gear.The forward roller brg on the main shaft may be worn.The nose of the MDG may be worn where it fits in the pilot brg in FW.If you need to replace one brg,replace them all.

[columbiA]

#2 If a slight amount of oil is leaking from under the cap at bottom of shift lever,it may be from having a light oil in trans-should be the 600W as sold by the vendors which is similar to a modern 250 W.Or it could be a plugged vent hole about 1/2 way down back of shift tower.NO seal is used. #7 Regular chassis grease is fine for all the grease fittingsEXCEPT the one that may be on the steering box if it is the 7-tooth steering gear which most 29,s used.It is supposed to take the same oil as trans & diff.but will leak out if steering box is worn #8 To grease the WP I give the rear bushing about 1/3 of 1 pump of the grease gun& 1 pump to the front brg if its the std pump.Too much grease in rear bushing will get into cooling system.

[Brambleworth]

Thanks for the info everyone!

[columbiA]

My previous answer to your #4 question re-popping out of 2nd applies more to popping out of 3rd.Popping out of 2nd is more likely the teeth on 2nd sliding gear & teeth on matching gear on cluster being worn causing the sliding gear to be pushed forward out of mesh.Could also be worn brg between MDG & main shaft.Weak detent or worn shift rail could also be a problem.Sometimes the two .010" shims are missing between the top 2 ears of FW hsg & block which could throw the hsg out of alignment which could cause the trans to jump out of 2nd or 3rd.