The Ford Barn

Roadster Rich · 07-11-2015, 03:15 PM

Finally back from Europe and able to pull the head from the 30 Town Sedan. I posted about getting the car to my shop and finding the badly cracked head.
Cracked Hd.jpg

Just pulled the head today and I am one happy guy. I can find no cracks in the block.
Block 1st Look.jpg

The cylinder walls do not look bad to me. Here is #2 and #3. Measured and they are stock diameter without inserts.
Cylinder 2.jpg
Cylinder 3.jpg
Not really bad for carbon build up as you can see on number 1. This has not be started in over 30 years.
Cylinder 1.jpg

Also sometimes you get lucky. I checked the fan and this is what I found.
Fan Crack.jpg
Fan Crack 2.jpg

I don't think it would have gone much farther before a major catastrophe.

I think that I will open up the valve chamber to check clearances and clean up to see how the valve seats look. Next drop the pan and plastigage the rod and crank journals. If all look OK, do you think I should just replace the head (I have two heads that I can use) and try to get her started?

With the rust in the engine, is it wise to fill with something like the derust solutions and let it sit for a few days and drain off? I will get a scope from work to see how far into the water Jackets I can see, but it looks pretty rusty and cruddy from the top of the block.

40 Deluxe · 07-11-2015, 04:45 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

As a first step pack rags around the valves that are open, push the car outside and go at the water passages with a long air nozzle. The scale in the water jacket is all dried out by now and loose, so you can blow a lot of it out. Then go at it with a high pressure washer and see how it looks. You may want to throw a blanket or something over the car first!

07-11-2015, 03:15 PM	#1
Roadster Rich Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Alpharetta, Georgia (Atlanta) Posts: 272	Progress on the Barn Find Finally back from Europe and able to pull the head from the 30 Town Sedan. I posted about getting the car to my shop and finding the badly cracked head. Cracked Hd.jpg Just pulled the head today and I am one happy guy. I can find no cracks in the block. Block 1st Look.jpg The cylinder walls do not look bad to me. Here is #2 and #3. Measured and they are stock diameter without inserts. Cylinder 2.jpg Cylinder 3.jpg Not really bad for carbon build up as you can see on number 1. This has not be started in over 30 years. Cylinder 1.jpg Also sometimes you get lucky. I checked the fan and this is what I found. Fan Crack.jpg Fan Crack 2.jpg I don't think it would have gone much farther before a major catastrophe. I think that I will open up the valve chamber to check clearances and clean up to see how the valve seats look. Next drop the pan and plastigage the rod and crank journals. If all look OK, do you think I should just replace the head (I have two heads that I can use) and try to get her started? With the rust in the engine, is it wise to fill with something like the derust solutions and let it sit for a few days and drain off? I will get a scope from work to see how far into the water Jackets I can see, but it looks pretty rusty and cruddy from the top of the block.

07-11-2015, 04:45 PM	#2
40 Deluxe Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: now Kuna, Idaho Posts: 3,779	Re: Progress on the Barn Find Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) As a first step pack rags around the valves that are open, push the car outside and go at the water passages with a long air nozzle. The scale in the water jacket is all dried out by now and loose, so you can blow a lot of it out. Then go at it with a high pressure washer and see how it looks. You may want to throw a blanket or something over the car first!