starter switch

[jdpalmer]

Starter switch hanging in how do you fix it

[Brentwood Bob]

Might watch this.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=lDBNoU0ZvLQ
You can rebuild yours.

[LEM]

This is another good one.

https://youtu.be/DH4mH0VFbfU

[Joe K]

Starter Switch not Pop-out.



Joe K

[Kurt in NJ]

Fully charged battery
More tension on the contact strip
Better quality switches
clean and flat contact on the starter

[nkaminar]

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Use some electrical grease, the kind with copper in it, available from McMaster-Carr.

[Bob Bidonde]

This is what I do:

[The Master Cylinder]

I saw somewhere, possibly Model "A" News, where someone puts a rubber hose under the contact to act like a spring. Never tried it myself.

[Joe K]

Originally Posted by The Master Cylinder

I saw somewhere, possibly Model "A" News, where someone puts a rubber hose under the contact to act like a spring. Never tried it myself.

I remember that. And also remember the claim was "parts are thin in economy of production" on the repop. And the rubber was a way to "compensate" for lack of resilience of the spring/contact.


It is possible to see the difference in depth of cover/pressing if you compare the repop to the originals. Pressing deep creates more "rejects", uses fractionally more metal, and requires additional "metal preparation" before the press. Besides wearing on the dies.



Joe K

[Bob Bidonde]

A-11458 Starter Switch Contactor was up to a Revision C by July 1931. I am guessing that the original contactor is made of beryllium copper which is an excellent spring material. The reproduction contactors I have are annealed copper that have no spring property at all. By the way, I have a box of NOS starter switches, and their contactors are very stiff springs.

[Brentwood Bob]

Beryllium copper apparently is resistant to annealing, i.e., the shorting out to the starter contact on the original contactor. I also think the hole is square for the copper stud.