Clutch Help/Guidance

[Tak28Tudor]

I need some folks with experience/expertise to help guide me: I have had my 1928 Tudor for approx. 2 years. The car is an older restoration (70s or 80s) but in overall good shape. I have attached a picture for reference.

The next project is to address the Clutch Chatter. The Clutch makes Chatter noise and vibration when releasing the clutch in 1st Gear and in Reverse. (Makes a knocking noise and shakes the entire car.) This only occurs when releasing the clutch in 1st Gear and Reverse. Does not occur at an other time. Transmission shifts fine and is smooth. The car does likely have a rear main leak....but it's not bad (a few drops of oil after sitting.) I was told to try and "Burn" the clutch dry as it likely has oil on it or use the vehicle more and it will likely work itself out. No dice. I still have Clutch chatter as mentioned above. I am determined to fix the issue as the car drives so nice. In your experience, should I pull the transmission and just replace clutch, pilot bearing, throw out bearing? What about the the throw out bearing hub? What else? I have never pulled the rearend/transmission before and I only want to do this Job once. Any guidance would be much appreciated. Thanks!

[65f100]

had similar problem with my 29 pu found the front cross member loose amd missing half of the rivets so I bolted it in tight and that heilped but it still chatters some
also the clutch disc on mine doesnt have the springs I plan on replacing all that when I get the engine overhauled
check the engine mounts and "burning the clutch in" will probly make it worse
good luck

[65f100]

btw car looks good!
have fun

[Conaway2]

Your car may have the multi-disk clutch since it’s a ‘28. These clutches work very well if the disks are in good shape. New disks for these are not available that I’m aware of; the original ones can be re-faced, however.

You can check to see if your car has this clutch by lifting the upper floorboard and looking at the bell housing inspection plate. If it has no louvers, your car likely has the multi disk clutch. Remove the cover to take a pic or two and post here. Members will quickly be able to tell you what style clutch your car has.

I would not try to ‘burn the clutch in’ - just drive the car and enjoy it for now. Otherwise, you’re creating unnecessary wear.

If the clutch starts to slip, then it will be time to address the issue.

If you do decide to pull the engine to work on the clutch, it’s always a good idea to replace pilot and throw out bearings. Many people have swapped out multi-disk clutches with the newer style single-disk clutch used for most of Model A production. If this is your situation, you’ll need a newer style flywheel, bell housing and pedals and pressure plate.

Good luck !
Jim

[JOES31]

Does the car have float a motor mounts? Sometimes these can
make the shake a bit more, especially in reverse.

[California Travieso]

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If I were you I’d stop worrying about the Model A clutch and spend spend more time in the Ferrari that is parked next to it!

David Serrano

[SAJ]

A broken centre float a motor mount made my clutch judder badly. Proof to me that those who leave it out of the installation entirely are due for trouble.
SAJ in NZ

[Ray64]

20 years no front float a motor but have rears and no problem for all that time IM HAPPY RAY

[nkaminar]

Check for loose parts as described above. Also check to see if all the clutch fingers are at the same height. But you are likely due for a clutch job. Assuming you have the more modern single disk clutch, the disk is originally slightly dish shaped so that it does not chatter. Use the disk with the springs and replace the pilot and throwout bearings. When you have it apart, check the flywheel and pressure plate to see that the surfaces are in good condition. If not, you will have to have them re ground.

[Patrick L.]

If its determined that it is the clutch, then the chatter is usually the flywheel, disk and /or pressure plate. So check pressure plate for abnormal warpage and have it turned if needed. Install a disk with caged springs along with a true or new pressure plate. With the the complete clutch assembled on the work bench check and adjust the finger height. They should be within .002" of each other. When done tap each finger with a hammer a couple times and recheck your adjustment.
The release bearing collar should not need to be replaced. Its probably a good idea to replace pilot bearing along with the release bearing. I grease the release bearing, but, do not grease the pilot bearing if its a solid oil-lite bearing. Instead load it with oil until you see the oil ooze [ technical term, smiley face] out of it before installation.

[Tak28Tudor]

Originally Posted by California Travieso

If I were you I’d stop worrying about the Model A clutch and spend spend more time in the Ferrari that is parked next to it!

David Serrano

Ha! Believe it or not, I enjoy driving the Model A just as much as the 328. Maybe because the Model A is so much cheaper to maintain...

[Tak28Tudor]

Originally Posted by nkaminar

Check for loose parts as described above. Also check to see if all the clutch fingers are at the same height. But you are likely due for a clutch job. Assuming you have the more modern single disk clutch, the disk is originally slightly dish shaped so that it does not chatter. Use the disk with the springs and replace the pilot and throwout bearings. When you have it apart, check the flywheel and pressure plate to see that the surfaces are in good condition. If not, you will have to have them re ground.

Thank you! Will do!

[Rob Doe]

As I recall, there are two important alignments that can affect the clutch and transmission??? They are described in the Les Andrews red book??? They use simple tools or a dial indicator is better. Additionally, if the engine and transmission are out of the car, it was suggested the work be done with the engine pointed nose down?

Maybe someone with experience can give us some accurate details. I'll try to find what I'm remembering and update again.

[bobv]

He first needs to determine if he has the multi disk clutch, if he does then most of the procedures mentioned will not be of any help. A multi disk clutch will have to be removed in order to make any repairs/adjustments.

[john charlton]

The multidisc has a square inspection plate the single disc it is oblong .

John in dreary wet Autumnal Suffolk County England .

[Patrick L.]

Originally Posted by bobv

He first needs to determine if he has the multi disk clutch, if he does then most of the procedures mentioned will not be of any help. A multi disk clutch will have to be removed in order to make any repairs/adjustments.

Yep, he didn't say anything about which he had. I assume a single disk as most have been replaced over the years. But, if it is a multi, all bets are off, especially with me.

[Patrick L.]

If the clutch assembly has been installed then the fingers can be set while in the car. Its not quite as good as if its out and on the bench. But, it'll work. If he lets us know something we can probably help.