POR 15 Paint

[Gary Gregory]

Can a guy use regular paint reducer to thin POR 15 or does it require the POR brand thinner/solvent ?

['29wagon]

i'd use denatured alcohol gently, do you intend to spray it ?

[Jim Brierley]

I've never thinned it but lacquer thinner easily takes it off fingers and such.

[bobscogin]

From their website:

HOW DO I THIN POR-15 IF I WANT TO SPRAY IT?
You should use only POR-15 Solvent for thinning. Keep lacquer thinner handy for clean-up. Do not thin POR-15 more than 5%.

Bob

[bobpo]

Just used it myself and love it. Go with "bobscogin" above. I love the stuff, have used it for years. It dries VERY HARD, great for hidden bolts, tools, hidden parts and just places where it's hard to get to to keep them clean. Be sure to keep the POR-15 paint can rim clean. I cover the open can with Saran Wrap and then put the lid on. Has worked for years. I have not had to thin it, but I do stir the paint..... I bought a bottle of POR-15 thinner and have barely used it.

[Gary Gregory]

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I had planned on spraying....guess I'll get a small can of POR-15 thinner.

[Curt Campbell]

Be sure to wear breathing protection...its a killer to lungs

[Dennis Pereira]

And gloves do not let it dry on your hands or you will be wearing it for a while. I know this from personal experience ha ha.

[cars56]

they sell their own reducer
por is great stuff
jus top coat it later

[Gary Gregory]

Thanks. Was thinking of using it on the frame on my coupe...would i need to top coat ?

[Sparky]

You don't have to top coat if it is hidden, but it will turn gray if exposed to the sun.

[cars56]

does sunlight break it down if not top coated?

[Craig Lewis]

Originally Posted by cars56

does sunlight break it down if not top coated?

POR15 is a form of liquid urethane and yes direct sunlight will make it chalky and crumbly so it flakes off in a few months.
Additionally I've come to realize that if the metal is meticulously prepped and made shiny smooth...the POR-15 DOES NOT STICK. Yes it will APPEAR to adhere at first...but the meerest scratch or bump begins a lifting process ...any moisture brings rust which spreads quickly undernieth.
In my case the rusty metal around a windshield pinchweld was VERY carefully prepped with a power scotchbrite wheel...so it was smooth/shiny steel and 2 coats of POR15 brushed on.
Cured overnight.
Glued in windshield.
2 months later I installed a second windshield (unlucky bloke) and the POR15 was peeling off in sheets
It seems to stick best to rough rusty metal although a rough sandblasted finish should work well. I suspect smooth sanded primer would be a mistake although I haven't tried that.
(after years of using it off & on, I'm starting to experiment again as the peeling experience quite shocked me)
Please understand I'm Not Against POR15...but it's different than paint and follows a different set of rules.

"Sorta related info"...urethane in a much thicker form is used to glue windshields into cars since around 1980.
This stuff also deteriorates in sunlight.
That 2" black band you see surrounding the inner edge of your modern car's windshield, is called a "ceramic frit". It's main purpose is to block sunlight from compromising the urethane bond.

[SAJ]

you should not thin any urethane with an alcohol, because alcohols terminate the chain reaction that occurs to harden polyurethanes like POR15. This is why meths or denatured alcohol, or "surgical spirit" are good to clean your hands and tools. The solvent stops the urethane from polymerising and gluing your fingers up. POR15 is a "moisture curing" urethane. So special low moisture content thinners are needed to prevent it from curing in the pot before you apply it. You should use the correct thinners to be sure of a good job.
Urethanes, like epoxies, are subject to attack by UV in sunlight and will chalk and decompose if not top coated witha barrier paint of some kind that is not affected by UV

['29wagon]

so denatured alcohol is not recommended nor m.e.k. ? it dried hard as a rock for me. i did not spray it, i mixed a small amount in a four ounce can and applied it to the lower crevasses of the cowl after repairs were made. the low humidity and heat assist in a natural baking process. outdoor project/open car
time will tell. i intend to top coat it regardless after etch priming what i can.
i wouldn't trust it to uv clear coat it . quite pricey to use an unfamiliar product on something larger, such as fenders to show or be judged.

[bobpo]

I wish POR-15 produced other colors. There must be a good reason why they don't. At a price of $45.00 per quart for just Black or Silver, it would seem pricey. However, once you have used this stuff, you can become quite attracted to it in light of the fact that it dries fairly quickly and is Very Hard.
I love it..... It is great for coating the many things that are not easily seen. And of course, those items usually don't need to be top-coated because they are not affected by the UV factor.

[Rem/Mo]

Originally Posted by bobpo

I wish POR-15 produced other colors. There must be a good reason why they don't. At a price of $45.00 per quart for just Black or Silver, it would seem pricey. However, once you have used this stuff, you can become quite attracted to it in light of the fact that it dries fairly quickly and is Very Hard.
I love it..... It is great for coating the many things that are not easily seen. And of course, those items usually don't need to be top-coated because they are not affected by the UV factor.

Have you ever looked at KBS Rustseal.

http://www.rustymetalpaint.com/Stop-...ings_c_11.html

['29wagon]

https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28032

[bobpo]

Rem/Mo,

I never heard of that product prior to your post, but will definitely look in to it now. I really like the additional color array. Thanks for the info and by the way, have you used it and if so, what was your take on it?

[Rem/Mo]

I have not used it but do plan to.
I have read quite a bit on it and it seems to be an equivelant to POR15.