Update on my dead fish update

[big job]

The hard start issue went away after driving every day (200 miles on it)
the heating issue went away two more new thermostats from napa former
Auto Zone junk China . Now, before I call the tech. I just got my $350
Powermaster alternator suppose to be 90 amp 6vt pos ground. New belts
Good ground and I'm getting just under 15 amps. I turn the headlights
on & heater and get around 15 amps discharge. What I did was use the
generator armature fat wire and moved it to the Batt terminal on the
regulator so it current flows through the ampmeter on the dash as the
generator will do. Proof with that is I put my charger on that regulator
terminal (Batt) put charger on 30amp and get 30amp on the dash.
Powermaster says connect alt output to solonoid or battery - so whats the
difference = both battery direct or going through the regulator (Bat)
origional circut , they both go to the same place right. My origional generator
worked fine it put out and kicked up with lights on problem was it don't
fit a 8BA . So now this alternator won't kick up. I ask here before I send the
thing back.. Also they say the alt output wire is also the load sensor.
Also this Super Deluxe is my only set of wheels besides my 2 m a gal 460 F350

Sam

"if something don't go wrong everyday I don't have a good day"

[flatheadmurre]

Measure voltage at output of alternator if it´s lower then spec from powermaster the regulator is bad.
Full load it should maintain voltage at output of alternator no matter if your wiring is bad.

[koates]

Hi Sam, your rather "ragged" description of your powermaster alternator fit up and wiring would seem to be OK. Does your powermaster require any other wires connected to it such as a sense wire or a warning light or ignition wire to excite the alternator. Powermaster say to connect to the solenoid main battery cable terminal (not the starter terminal) which is the path of least resistance to the battery and a true battery voltage reading for the inbuilt voltage regulator to sense the battery state of charge or loads turned on, eg lights, heater fan etc. Of course doing it that way will bypass the ammeter and it wont show a charge. Use a voltmeter on the alternator main terminal to check the voltage which should be close to 7.5 volts if it is charging correctly. You might need a few revs up when checking the voltage. Regards, Kevin.

[big job]

Hy Kevin,,, only one terminal which is output and that is also the load
sensor per instructions. This unit is suppose to be correct for 49 to 53
Ford and Mercury. It suppose to be 90 amps. Ok it excites fine. I have
driven 65 mph. same thing - barely puts 15amps and with lights on its
shows discharge (about 10 amps). At idle it shows maybe 10 amps. It just
will not kick up amps when a load is applied. I think its defective. Guess
I have to call their tech phone line........
I have installed a few one wire alt. from Napa My Ford backhoe my Loader
my F6 Ford an my Ford skidd steer loader all with no problems. Problem
is with Napa is no 6vt available. ugg Sam

[koates]

Sam, Just check the fanbelt is tight enough to drive the alternator without slipping and also that the pulley is tight on the alternator shaft. Maybe a local auto electrical shop could run it up in their test bench. Make sure you tell them it is 6 VOLT POSITIVE GROUND. Don't want them hooking it up backwards. Regards, Kevin.

[5851a]

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Just a thought. Is the wire you are hooked to heavy enough to withstand 90 amps if the alternator ever went to full charge? Like if it were trying to charge a low battery. Personally I would run output to battery and use a voltmeter.

[51 MERC-CT]

Just because the alternator is rated at 90 amp does not mean it is going to charge at that rate if the battery is charged.

[koates]

Sam said on post #1 that he had a 30 amp charger connected through that wiring. His alternator wont do better than 15 amps with lights and heater fan on. Regards, Kevin.

[34PKUP]

Originally Posted by koates

Sam said on post #1 that he had a 30 amp charger connected through that wiring. His alternator wont do better than 15 amps with lights and heater fan on. Regards, Kevin.

If with the heater fan and lights on there is only a 15 amp draw then that's all it will indicate.

[5851a]

Originally Posted by 51 MERC-CT

Just because the alternator is rated at 90 amp does not mean it is going to charge at that rate if the battery is charged.

Yes I agree, but was just thinking worse case thing like trying to charge back up a low battery.

[BillM]

With the one wire output also being the sense wire you need a heavy gauge wire so as to not have an excess voltage drop across the output/sense wire.

[flatheadmurre]

Just measure the output voltage at load is it dropping below what it is set for in the spec from powermaster it´s bad.
Doesn´t matter if your hooking it up with a thin wire the output voltage should be steady.

[BillM]

While you are waiting for the tech line to open you might want to read through this article; it also has links to Power Master. Note that both specify connecting the out put directly to the battery and also note the wire gauge charts.
http://www.rodauthority.com/tech-sto...er-to-hook-up/

[big job]

Problem solved, problem was after you reach 70yrs old you go brain dead. My inital
run I had a jumper ground wire and forgot about it. So a heavy grd wire from alt. to
carbruator stud bolt. Now I start car it now goes to 30amps and trickles back to zero.
Turn on all lights heater & at idle amp meter stays a zero means full charged battery.
I feel like I wasted your time with my stupidity...
sam

[VeryTangled]

Sam, thanks for coming back and letting us know how it turned out.