Non Model A & B Distributors

[LeroyM]

Hey guys,

Who's running a non Model A & B distributor in their hopped up motors? What fairly modern distributor makes a good swap for theses old motors? I've heard before that a 70's Datsun distributor will work with some machining done to it but I have no idea which model the distributor came from.

I have used a old 50's Mallory before with good results but parts for them are hard to come by. Are the new Mallory's as good as the old ones?

Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. Thanks.

[Roadster62]

I just stuck a NOS Delco Remy on eBay (shameless plug) that may fit with some machine work. No idea what it was originally designed for.

[Pete]

I use Roto-Faze distributors with Jacobs computer ignitions.
Both have websites.

[YOJIMI]

I run a delco HEI out of a oldsmobile v-8 that I modified on my lathe , took an afternoon , looked at distributor caps till I found 4cyl that fit ,this distributor is self contained , coil and all. 1 wire hook-up. I did this because I didn't have a model A distributor , and wanted to get it running , has centrifical advance and vaccume advance hooked up , so far it has ran great..........
JIMI

[LeroyM]

YOJIMI,

Do you know what year the oldsmobile was that the distributor came out of and what 4cyl cap you ended up using?

[Mike Mc]

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I'm running a modern Mallory in a standard A motor with a 5.5:1 head. I'm happy with it.

[Denny/Utah]

I'm planning to use a Ford Escort distributor. Note the key word "planning". I have not even acquired one yet but it's a four cylinder with a fairly large diameter cap and it is designed to turn counter clockwise (as do most/all Fords).

[Del in NE Ohio]

I'm running a modern dual point Mallory w/centrifigal advance. Points, condenser, cap, rotor still readily available at summit racing. I also run a 5.9 Brumfield Head w/ no other mods. Works great - trouble free.

[82ndscotty]

i have run an early datsun 70 s in my ovh am now running a single point mallory mallory. both performed great. the datsun requires some lathe and mill work and you only use the primary set of points. dual points in a 4banger driver is not necessary in my opinion. fs ignitions make a nice reliable ignition check it out. scotty

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

After reading a article in Secrets Magazine, the official journal of the Secrets Of Speed Society (S.O.S.S.) and author Gary Anderson ( thanks Gary), of Michigan. volume 19 issue 2 we have machined up a dozen or so of these new Mallorys for the Model Ts and Model As ( Different lower ends and different curves for sure ).

(by the way if you dont get this magazine you really need to !!! Order at [email protected] )

The Model A uses the Mallory with a slight amount of machining work by ctting some off the bottom, machining a drive tang and making a new bushing. The springs are changed to get the curve moving a little quicker than usual ..
Some pics:








Polished or "vintage" blasted????



Unit is held in with bolt or may use machined clamp by threading the pin hole.
Curve is very adjustable but most have used a 20 degree advance at 3000 rpm for the A's and 20 degrees at 2000 for the Model Ts'...

[John LaVoy]

We have been pleased with the Zipper from FS Ignitions. It is an electronic replacement. We did an article on it in Vol 3 Issue 1 of the Model A Times.

[T.W.Dustin]

I am using an FSI (First Street Ignitions) distributor (not the Zipper). My engine is stock other than the distributor and single downdraft setup w/ a Yapp Scalded Dog intake and Stromberg 97 (reman. - English) carburetor. I love the changes.

[d.j. moordigian]

Bubbas...if you don't mind, what was the Mallory originally for? Best guess, chevy 2 marine? Thanks, Dudley

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

Originally Posted by d.j. moordigian

Bubbas...if you don't mind, what was the Mallory originally for? Best guess, chevy 2 marine? Thanks, Dudley

I think the article said it was for a 170 Ford Industrial engine......nice unit , single point no fuss -no muss.....

[Pete]

Good looking unit Bubba.
I have to chuckle and giggle at the UL label though.
Yes, I know it is a piece of electrical equipment but that just tickles
my funny bone.
I have dealt with UL many times over the years when I was in the electrical equipment manufacturing business so I know what it takes to get a UL label on a piece of equipment....
I wonder if the CSA label is hiding behind the spring clamp.
Again, good job.

[triumphleroy]

I know this is an old post BUT?
Maybe I am missing something here; but how is the Modified Mallory going to get oil to the shaft! Should an Oiler be added also? Like on an Stock A model or even the Mallory from earlier? Any one using one of these? Any more photos?
I remember reading about the modification somewhere but have not been able to find it lately! I really like the looks of this one...
Just wondering?

[wensum]

I should do some research, but I'm led to believe that most modern distributors run the wrong way for the Ford and a Honda one is the one to go for?
A friend runs a modern distributor on his A and I'll have to check with him about it
Keith

[Tom Walker]

I run a (original model) Mini distributor on my Miller OHV engine. Has the subject of the automatic advance come up? If you use anything modern, you may have a distributor that is designed to advance the timing at much higher revs than is required for a Model A.
On my Mini distributor, I had a hard time inceasing the size of the advance bob weights, and installing weak springs to get the advance early enough. And then I had to limit the amount of advance too. Just wondering if this has been considered?

[George Miller]

I use a modified dual point Mallory for a chev V8. In my home built over head. This engine is now in my 30 pickup.

[Jim Brierley]

i'm using the datsun you speak of, the one with a tach drive. they have a ball bearing instead of a bushing. these are dual point units but they have too much advance for a flathead, mine are on ohv conversions. they need a little machine work to fit the head, and a new drive shaft.

[Art Bjornestad]

I bought my single point Mallory on EBAY and just stuck it into my A motor. It was labeled for 4 cylinder.

[Art Bjornestad]

My mistake, I bought the single point on Amazon......not Ebay.

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by triumphleroy

I know this is an old post BUT?
Maybe I am missing something here; but how is the Modified Mallory going to get oil to the shaft! Should an Oiler be added also? Like on an Stock A model or even the Mallory from earlier? Any one using one of these? Any more photos?
I remember reading about the modification somewhere but have not been able to find it lately! I really like the looks of this one...
Just wondering?

Hey Leroy,
Photos: Here are two of Bubbas' latest creations of mod Mallory, limited edition...sans the UL tag,etc.
Very clean simple look and rec'd WITH dist shaft and and wire set. Centrifugal advance and setup by Jim ...with his majic touch ! Hasn't run yet, as it is for B that I'm SLOWLY putting together. However, others who have run this unit, say that it's the best..we'll see, eh !!

[hardtimes]

pictures of Bubba ignition:

[triumphleroy]

Hardtimes,
I spoke with Jim aka "Bubba" First of this week and he say's that it will be January before he has some of these distributor made up! Leaning toward his or one from FSI but do not really know how much Bubba's cost on his is. What did it run if you don't mind my asking I have been unable to find a price on his site etc. my email is here on my profile and you can email me if you prefer. I think Jim (BUBBA) said he was going to be away from his shop next few weeks also. Also going to look around at the Texas Hillclimb event tomorrow to see what is being used. I just want daily driver quality not high performance.

[hardtimes]

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I 'looked around'. No one, IMO, can beat the quality/expertise of Bubba's product. Proof is in the 'pudding' as they say. Jim sells out of everything that he makes...and quickly. We are very lucky to have him as a friend and source of things ..distributor !
I'll PM you some information. But, let me say that his prices are more than competitive and getting a new anodized black distributor shaft plus a new set of plug wires, makes this an even better expenditure than I've ever received on such equipment. I've read that he is cutting back his work to a great extent (semi-retirement?) and so his product MAYBE harder to get and / or take longer. That's why I jumped in when I did much earlier.

As far as 'driver quality' dist, well I've used an elect kit that I installed in my dist body...many years ago. It runs GREAT and has never missed a beat in 10 years.
I also have an FSI red unit, that I've had for 5/6 years that I haven't even used...as backup. Now will use Bubba unit, and will use electronic mod stock unit, that I've been running as backup. Let us know what you find at the Texas Hillclimb !

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by Pete

I use Roto-Faze distributors with Jacobs computer ignitions.
Both have websites.

Hey Pete,
'computer ignitions' ! Hm, as I'm computer challenged , how is this system setup, i.e.- is it simple swap in , you have to have computer to calibrate computer, what's involved Since you've already used this equipment, thot maybe you could give condensed short version on installation/use ?

[Purdy Swoft]

I use modern Mallory dual point distributors in two of my model A engines. The first one came from Harrys model A parts in Oregon and the second one came from Berts in Denver. The Mallory dual point distributors have been the best and most trouble free distributors that I have ever used in any engine .

[machine girl]

How about FS distributors ? we run them on all our motors, never a problem.

[Tierod_Bill]

Spent this morning tuning up the new dizzy install from Bubba's Hot Rod Shop.
Bubba (GMC_BUBBA) installed a new dizzy and added a timing mark. WOW, big difference. Starts right up, has good mid range power band. Did not have the chance to see upper speeds yet.
Check it out...


New timing mark from Modelaonly.net



Great install... BIG Difference in over all performance, better response. Don't have to mess with your advance lever... :-)



Yep, gota get rid of the black eyes...

If you need "T", Early V8 or "A" distributors... He IS THE MAN TO SEE...
Thanks BUBBA....

You are right, he is cutting back, and specializing...took a while to get this one...but well worth the wait...

[Chris Haynes]

I will be running this Wico JEM Magnito on mine.

[Lawrie]

would a list with a vacuum advance on and set up be better than just the mech advance.
I see on my A with only the 5.5 head and down draft carb you need to retard it going up a hill under full power,
So if only the mechanical advance is there would you be missing some power by not retarding under load .
Lawrie

[Tom Wesenberg]

Tierod Bill, you have a nice looking engine and compartment.
I hope tha green antifreeze shown was just a bit of spill while filling.
The botton of the radiator should have clips to hold the wiring harness.
It looks like you have a tall 1930-1 water outlet instead of a 28-9 shorter outlet.

You're right, those 1930-1 headlights need to go and get the correct 28-9 style.

[Ford1931]

Chris, I have a mag like the one you pictured and would like to run it. I am not sure how to time it. Does it have an advance? I was told they were used on stationary engines and used to run at certain rpms.

[Purdy Swoft]

Originally Posted by Ford1931

Chris, I have a mag like the one you pictured and would like to run it. I am not sure how to time it. Does it have an advance? I was told they were used on stationary engines and used to run at certain rpms.

I've never run one but have heard that they are hard on the center camshaft distributor drive teeth. The magneto that is driven off the front timing gear would probably be easier on the center camshaft.

[Chris Haynes]

Originally Posted by Ford1931

Chris, I have a mag like the one you pictured and would like to run it. I am not sure how to time it. Does it have an advance? I was told they were used on stationary engines and used to run at certain rpms.

It automaticly retards for starting.
Back in the '60's I had an A that had a vacum advance distrubutor on it. It came from a Jeep.

[Tierod_Bill]

Tom Wesenberg: Thanks Tom..I'll look for the clips, I did not notice the green, until I posted the pictures, so investigation is in order. The Motor Serial Number: *A4181609* points to a 30 motor. Engine was made on Dec 1, 1930, Thanks to modelahouse.com. Should I switch to the shorter neck, or is it OK?
28-29 Acorn style Headlights are on the wish list. Thinking about a 12V conversion.

[christian]

as tom said the goose neck you have its for a 30-31 as the radiator on those is taller. using the shorter neck will eliminate that bend you have in the upper hose.

[Purdy Swoft]

Originally Posted by Tierod_Bill

Tom Wesenberg: Thanks Tom..I'll look for the clips, I did not notice the green, until I posted the pictures, so investigation is in order. The Motor Serial Number: *A4181609* points to a 30 motor. Engine was made on Dec 1, 1930, Thanks to modelahouse.com. Should I switch to the shorter neck, or is it OK?
28-29 Acorn style Headlights are on the wish list. Thinking about a 12V conversion.

As long as the longer 1930 upper water outlet isn't causing any problems I would leave it alone. Any time that the water neck is replaced there is a good risk of cracking the water neck. Being as its not a show car that will be entered in national judgeing there should be no problem. Save yourself some hassle and expense.

You can convert to twelve volt with the original generator with no mods to the generator and no wires will need to be changed as long as you keep it positive ground. I run my roadster 12 volt in this manner and really like it.

[Pete]

Originally Posted by hardtimes

Hey Pete,
'computer ignitions' ! Hm, as I'm computer challenged , how is this system setup, i.e.- is it simple swap in , you have to have computer to calibrate computer, what's involved Since you've already used this equipment, thot maybe you could give condensed short version on installation/use ?

Both the distributor and ignition are bolt in items. Nothing to adjust except initial timing as you would for a stock engine.

[hardtimes]

Thanks Pete !
Have another good option to look into now !

[Tanglfoot]

I am using a 1997 Nissan Navara, minor mods to the body and shaft has enough advance looks good. Also the Ford Escort and Cortina work fine with minor mods


The older you get the better you were:

[Tanglfoot]

PS: Make that 1987 Navara

[colin1928]

Willys Go Devil Distributor has the correct advance curve fitted a few years ago remember it as almost drop in or very little work

[pooch]

English ford prefect drop straight in .

I have been told prefects can have gear driven and chain driven cams, that go opposite ways, so you need the right direction one as the A .

[Jonnyenglish]

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Originally Posted by pooch

English ford prefect drop straight in .

I have been told prefects can have gear driven and chain driven cams, that go opposite ways, so you need the right direction one as the A .

Anyone got any more info on this? Which model, years etc will work on the A?

[Joey Anchors]

Sorry to bring back an old thread, but I was doing some research on dual points and found the modern Mallory 2301105.

When using one of these do you keep the stock coil and is the distributor a 6v setup?

My plan is to run one with a Scalded Dog single intake/97, Lion III, Y-dual headers and when/if the A's engine needs a rebuild I'll be upgrading the cam/crank/bearings at that time.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Joey Anchors

Sorry to bring back an old thread, but I was doing some research on dual points and found the modern Mallory 2301105.

When using one of these do you keep the stock coil and is the distributor a 6v setup?

My plan is to run one with a Scalded Dog single intake/97, Lion III, Y-dual headers and when/if the A's engine needs a rebuild I'll be upgrading the cam/crank/bearings at that time.

Dual points give the coil more dwell for more coil saturation. This might help on a high speed V8, but certainly isn't needed on a Model A. Purdy mentioned several times about the hot spark of the FLAME THROWER coil he used, if you need more spark. I've had good service from my stock ignition and slant pole coil.

[ursus]

I have no experience with non- A or B Ford distributors but recall seeing use of distributors from an early military Jeep and from a Volkswagen centrifugal Bosch 009 that had been modified to fit and seemed to work very well.

[40 Deluxe]

A note on "hot coils": A Super Duper Flame-Throwin' Bug Zappin' coil only produces enough voltage to fire the spark plug no matter what it's rated at! When the points open and the coil's primary field collapses, voltage rises in the secondary windings only until there is sufficient energy to jump the plug gap. Thus, if 5,000 volts is enough to produce a spark, 5,000 volts is all the coil will produce. Higher compression pressure and/or a larger plug gap requires more voltage so the plug may not fire until the secondary voltage rises to maybe 10,000 volts. The advantage of a Mega Trick Zap-Ya'-Good coil is the reserve capacity. If the plug gap or rotor gap wears larger than specs, the coil can still fire the plug. It will also handle higher compression than a stock coil.
On the down side, a hot coil draws more amps than a stocker. which amperage of course flows through he points. Therefore points don't last as long. Also, if the plug gap and/or rotor gap gets too large, you have a higher voltage flying around inside the cap which can lead to stray sparks jumping to ground, jumping to the wrong plug, or eating through the rotor.
With stricter emissions laws in the '70's manufacturers had to go to a leaner fuel mixture. It takes a larger plug gap to reliably fire a lean mixture, which requires a higher voltage coil, which requires more current, which burns points quicker. Thus we now have solid state, or electronic, ignition. We also have heavier and better insulated plug wires to contain that high voltage.

[hardtimes]

Hey 40 Deluxe,
Well stated. In addition, there are a few 'things' that can be easily done to help keep the spark going to where it is supposed to and not elsewhere.

Along the lines, and in keeping with the magnetos mentioned, as distributors of spark, here's a side drive four cyl example from the shed.

Anyone have the other half of the 'drive' that connects to the cam cover ?

Just connect it to the right front of you engine