TOP DEAD CENTER Ford 1946

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by George/Maine

If I were you i,d remove that so caller blower or what ever it is.

I believe that blower looking thing you're referring to is his servo (power) brake mechanism.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by Harylufa

HI!
Today I install the vacuum gauge and the needle pointed to the part green, It seem to be motor in conditions.

Did you try changing the timing to see if you could get any more vacuum on the gauge?

[George/Maine]

I was reading and old book and says .
When TDC is found that mark will be 4degs BTDC,and when using the fixture drop it in and forget it.
If no fix gauge NOW ,you can use your timing light and put it on the mark that you made.Thats 4 BTDC.
Don,t use one of those new timing lights.

[Harylufa]

Dear Friends!
One question, perhaps I am making mistake.
1) Dist rotate clockwise? Pulley from crankshaft rotate clockwise. Am I right?
I am confused now.

Today I drove to Buenos Aires City and my car rised temperature. I know that I insist all the time, but I can not solve the problem yet, perhaps is something wrong I have done or I have read.
Thank you!

[Harylufa]

Originally Posted by George/Maine

If I were you i,d remove that so caller blower or what ever it is.
Did this engine ever run good?

Hi!

the power brake had been for years, never had some problem, but as I posted till go on raising temperature.
Someone told that there is much sediment into the engine, could be one of the problem.

Thanks

[Old Henry]

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Originally Posted by Harylufa

Today I drove to Buenos Aires City and my car rised temperature. I know that I insist all the time, but I can not solve the problem yet, perhaps is something wrong I have done or I have read.

Originally Posted by Harylufa

as I posted till go on raising temperature.
Someone told that there is much sediment into the engine, could be one of the problem.

Hary,

Back to your original problem with "raising temperature" and "rised temperature." As you may have read in response to this problem before, flathead engines run hot because the exhaust from the cylinders goes back into the engine block before exiting the block into the exhaust manifold. That's why there is such a big radiator, two water pumps, and 4 hoses to cool the engine unlike modern engines that have small radiators, one pump, and two hoses. So, it is expected and normal for the flathead engine to run hotter than what modern engines do.

However, that apparent hot engine can be deceiving. Modern cooling systems typically have a 15 lb radiator cap on them so that they can get much hotter before boiling over than our flathead engines that only have a 4 lb radiator cap. Still, with a 4 lb radiator cap at your elevation of 21 meters the water in your engine should not boil out until it reaches 240 degrees farenheit. As long as the water doesn't boil out, you have no worries. The engine will not be damaged at any temperature below the temperature that the water boils out of it. Of course, if the water ever does get hot enough to boil out of the engine the engine must be stopped immediately and let cool before continuing or it will be damaged.

Another thing is the way the temperature gauges read in these old Fords. My temperature gauge reads between 1/2 and 3/4 on the gauge at normal operating temperature even in the winter and I've never had the water boil out even when the gauge reads at the maximum temperature. Comparaing that to modern temperature gauges, they typically read way below 1/2 at normal operating temperatures. That can lead one to believe that when the old Ford gauge reads so much higher that it must be too hot. It is not. It is normal for the gauge to read much higher in our old Fords than in modern cars.

The best idea I have for you is this: Drive your car around and get it up to operating temperature and maybe what you think is too hot. Then go home, turn off the engine, then turn the ignition back on so that the temperature gauge will still work, put a rag over the radiator cap and carefully open the radiator cap just enough to let out any pressure that there is. If the water is trying to steam out close the cap. If the pressure is released such that you can finish removing the radiator cap, take it off and insert a liquid thermometer such as your wife might use in the kitchen to make candy into the radiator water and see what temperature it is. You will most likely find it well below 200F. Whatever the temperature is, note that as you look at your temperature gauge in the dashboard and see what it reads corresponding to the temperature on the thermometer. Now you will have a known reference point on your gauge that you know what the water temperature is when the gauge points to that spot. If the temperature is under 200F you're fine. Remember, at your elevation the water is not going to boil out of your engine until it reaches 240F and until it reaches that temperature and actually boils out you have no worries.

I'm not sure what "sediment" you are talking about in your engine but if it's oil sludge, that will not affect engine operating temperature.

You have cleaned out your radiator and done everything that you can for the engine to run as cool as it will. After checking the actual temperature of the water compared to the reading on your gauge you should be able to relax and drive without worrying about "temperature rise" until the water actually starts boiling out of the radiator. That is not likely going to happen with your clean radiator.

I hope all of this helps.

Relax. Drive your car and enjoy it. Don't worry about the temperature.

[Harylufa]

Originally Posted by Old Henry

Hary,

Back to your original problem with "raising temperature" and "rised temperature." As you may have read in response to this problem before, flathead engines run hot because the exhaust from the cylinders goes back into the engine block before exiting the block into the exhaust manifold. That's why there is such a big radiator, two water pumps, and 4 hoses to cool the engine unlike modern engines that have small radiators, one pump, and two hoses. So, it is expected and normal for the flathead engine to run hotter than what modern engines do.

However, that apparent hot engine can be deceiving. Modern cooling systems typically have a 15 lb radiator cap on them so that they can get much hotter before boiling over than our flathead engines that only have a 4 lb radiator cap. Still, with a 4 lb radiator cap at your elevation of 21 meters the water in your engine should not boil out until it reaches 240 degrees farenheit. As long as the water doesn't boil out, you have no worries. The engine will not be damaged at any temperature below the temperature that the water boils out of it. Of course, if the water ever does get hot enough to boil out of the engine the engine must be stopped immediately and let cool before continuing or it will be damaged.

Another thing is the way the temperature gauges read in these old Fords. My temperature gauge reads between 1/2 and 3/4 on the gauge at normal operating temperature even in the winter and I've never had the water boil out even when the gauge reads at the maximum temperature. Comparaing that to modern temperature gauges, they typically read way below 1/2 at normal operating temperatures. That can lead one to believe that when the old Ford gauge reads so much higher that it must be too hot. It is not. It is normal for the gauge to read much higher in our old Fords than in modern cars.

The best idea I have for you is this: Drive your car around and get it up to operating temperature and maybe what you think is too hot. Then go home, turn off the engine, then turn the ignition back on so that the temperature gauge will still work, put a rag over the radiator cap and carefully open the radiator cap just enough to let out any pressure that there is. If the water is trying to steam out close the cap. If the pressure is released such that you can finish removing the radiator cap, take it off and insert a liquid thermometer such as your wife might use in the kitchen to make candy into the radiator water and see what temperature it is. You will most likely find it well below 200F. Whatever the temperature is, note that as you look at your temperature gauge in the dashboard and see what it reads corresponding to the temperature on the thermometer. Now you will have a known reference point on your gauge that you know what the water temperature is when the gauge points to that spot. If the temperature is under 200F you're fine. Remember, at your elevation the water is not going to boil out of your engine until it reaches 240F and until it reaches that temperature and actually boils out you have no worries.

I'm not sure what "sediment" you are talking about in your engine but if it's oil sludge, that will not affect engine operating temperature.

You have cleaned out your radiator and done everything that you can for the engine to run as cool as it will. After checking the actual temperature of the water compared to the reading on your gauge you should be able to relax and drive without worrying about "temperature rise" until the water actually starts boiling out of the radiator. That is not likely going to happen with your clean radiator.

I hope all of this helps.

Relax. Drive your car and enjoy it. Don't worry about the temperature.

DearHenry!

Modern cooling systems typically have a 15 lb radiator cap on them so that they can get much hotter before boiling over than our flathead engines that only have a 4 lb radiator cap.

What is the original radiator cap in lb that came from factory??
my radiator cap does not fit or tighten.
Thank for clear explanation.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by Harylufa

DearHenry!

Modern cooling systems typically have a 15 lb radiator cap on them so that they can get much hotter before boiling over than our flathead engines that only have a 4 lb radiator cap.

What is the original radiator cap in lb that came from factory??
my radiator cap does not fit or tighten.
Thank for clear explanation.

The original radiator cap on our engines is 4 lb. available here: http://macsautoparts.com/early-v8-fo...0R3CHL1075611/

[Harylufa]

Originally Posted by Old Henry

Hary,

Back to your original problem with "raising temperature" and "rised temperature." As you may have read in response to this problem before, flathead engines run hot because the exhaust from the cylinders goes back into the engine block before exiting the block into the exhaust manifold. That's why there is such a big radiator, two water pumps, and 4 hoses to cool the engine unlike modern engines that have small radiators, one pump, and two hoses. So, it is expected and normal for the flathead engine to run hotter than what modern engines do.

However, that apparent hot engine can be deceiving. Modern cooling systems typically have a 15 lb radiator cap on them so that they can get much hotter before boiling over than our flathead engines that only have a 4 lb radiator cap. Still, with a 4 lb radiator cap at your elevation of 21 meters the water in your engine should not boil out until it reaches 240 degrees farenheit. As long as the water doesn't boil out, you have no worries. The engine will not be damaged at any temperature below the temperature that the water boils out of it. Of course, if the water ever does get hot enough to boil out of the engine the engine must be stopped immediately and let cool before continuing or it will be damaged.

Another thing is the way the temperature gauges read in these old Fords. My temperature gauge reads between 1/2 and 3/4 on the gauge at normal operating temperature even in the winter and I've never had the water boil out even when the gauge reads at the maximum temperature. Comparaing that to modern temperature gauges, they typically read way below 1/2 at normal operating temperatures. That can lead one to believe that when the old Ford gauge reads so much higher that it must be too hot. It is not. It is normal for the gauge to read much higher in our old Fords than in modern cars.

The best idea I have for you is this: Drive your car around and get it up to operating temperature and maybe what you think is too hot. Then go home, turn off the engine, then turn the ignition back on so that the temperature gauge will still work, put a rag over the radiator cap and carefully open the radiator cap just enough to let out any pressure that there is. If the water is trying to steam out close the cap. If the pressure is released such that you can finish removing the radiator cap, take it off and insert a liquid thermometer such as your wife might use in the kitchen to make candy into the radiator water and see what temperature it is. You will most likely find it well below 200F. Whatever the temperature is, note that as you look at your temperature gauge in the dashboard and see what it reads corresponding to the temperature on the thermometer. Now you will have a known reference point on your gauge that you know what the water temperature is when the gauge points to that spot. If the temperature is under 200F you're fine. Remember, at your elevation the water is not going to boil out of your engine until it reaches 240F and until it reaches that temperature and actually boils out you have no worries.

I'm not sure what "sediment" you are talking about in your engine but if it's oil sludge, that will not affect engine operating temperature.

You have cleaned out your radiator and done everything that you can for the engine to run as cool as it will. After checking the actual temperature of the water compared to the reading on your gauge you should be able to relax and drive without worrying about "temperature rise" until the water actually starts boiling out of the radiator. That is not likely going to happen with your clean radiator.

I hope all of this helps.

Relax. Drive your car and enjoy it. Don't worry about the temperature.

Originally Posted by Old Henry

The original radiator cap on our engines is 4 lb. available here: http://macsautoparts.com/early-v8-fo...0R3CHL1075611/

Henry!

Thank you very much! I will buy one!

[JWL]

To answer your question----the distributor and the crankshaft rotate in opposite directions. If you stand in front of your car and look at the engine the crankshaft turns like a clock and the camshaft(distributor) turns anti-clockwise.(counter clockwise)

[Harylufa]

Originally Posted by JWL

To answer your question----the distributor and the crankshaft rotate in opposite directions. If you stand in front of your car and look at the engine the crankshaft turns like a clock and the camshaft(distributor) turns anti-clockwise.(counter clockwise)

HI JWL!

Ok very clear.

Thank you very much

[Harylufa]

Dear Friends!
I have a Ford Holley 2100. I d like to know if I can connect the vacuum gauge in the hole shown in the picture. Can I make any reading there?

I attach an illustrative picture that you can see what I mean.

Thank you!

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by Harylufa

Dear Friends!
I have a Ford Holley 2100. I d like to know if I can connect the vacuum gauge in the hole shown in the picture. Can I make any reading there?

I don't know what that port is on your Holley 2100 carb but I doubt that it is a vacuum port since it is above the throttle plates. The only vacuum is below the throttle plates.

Why don't you use the windshield wiper vacuum hose port? I can not think of a better source for intake manifold vacuum to use with your gauge to read it.

[flatjack9]

That measures venturi vacuum and is used to operate the Ford "Loadamatic" distributor used on 49 and up engines. Does not represent engine vacuum.

[Harylufa]

Originally Posted by Old Henry

I don't know what that port is on your Holley 2100 carb but I doubt that it is a vacuum port since it is above the throttle plates. The only vacuum is below the throttle plates.

Why don't you use the windshield wiper vacuum hose port? I can not think of a better source for intake manifold vacuum to use with your gauge to read it.

Dear Henry!

I used the windshield wiper vacuum port to read how my car is with the gauge.
I have only curiosity because i did not know what that hole is.
vacuum gauge read MOTOR NORMAL ,needle pointed in number 20 (green range)

Thank you.

[Harylufa]

Originally Posted by flatjack9

That measures venturi vacuum and is used to operate the Ford "Loadamatic" distributor used on 49 and up engines. Does not represent engine vacuum.

Hi Flatjack9!

Thank you for your info.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by Old Henry

The best idea I have for you is this: Drive your car around and get it up to operating temperature and maybe what you think is too hot. Then go home, turn off the engine, then turn the ignition back on so that the temperature gauge will still work, put a rag over the radiator cap and carefully open the radiator cap just enough to let out any pressure that there is. If the water is trying to steam out close the cap. If the pressure is released such that you can finish removing the radiator cap, take it off and insert a liquid thermometer such as your wife might use in the kitchen to make candy into the radiator water and see what temperature it is. You will most likely find it well below 200F. Whatever the temperature is, note that as you look at your temperature gauge in the dashboard and see what it reads corresponding to the temperature on the thermometer. Now you will have a known reference point on your gauge that you know what the water temperature is when the gauge points to that spot. If the temperature is under 200F you're fine. Remember, at your elevation the water is not going to boil out of your engine until it reaches 240F and until it reaches that temperature and actually boils out you have no worries.

Here is an illustration of what I'm talking about.
I just drove my '47 around enough to warm up the engine. It's 0C (32F) outside but with the thermostats it still warmed up to operating temperature. Then I came home, kept the engine running, opened the radiator cap and stuck my wife's candy thermometer in the radiator. Here's what I got. As you can see, even though my gauge reads almost to 3/4 the actual water temperature is only 60C (140F). That radiator water temperature is probably less than the actual engine temperature because I'm not sure that the engine temperature was hot enough to open the thermostats. If so, then the engine temperature could not be over 70C (160F) because that's the temperature that the thermostats open. But, I think it still shows how the old Ford temperature gauges read hot, that is, they give the impression that the engine is a lot hotter than it really is compared to modern temperature gauges. I believe my temperature gauge is quite accurate because I recently installed a new temperature sending unit in the engine.

If you really want to know how hot your engine is when you think it's too hot you'll need to do this same test so that you'll know and can relax and quit worrying about it.

[larrys40]

Not sure what the point is in marking the pulley with a pre-timed distributor. I set them up on a Fod Heyer stroboscope and they run great. Big difference in setting them by the static method or by chance and by golly vs the stroboscope.

Without a degree wheel in place of the distributor I'm not sure you would get it right on. Again... not sure what the point is with a pre-timed distributor,

[Fordors]

As flatjack has said there is definitely vacuum in a carburetor. Manifold vacuum is what is measured to determine the condition of an engine, or it's operating efficiency, but venturi vacuum must be present or fuel would never be pulled from the float chamber as the throttle is opened.

[Old Henry]

Originally Posted by larrys40

Not sure what the point is in marking the pulley with a pre-timed distributor. Again... not sure what the point is with a pre-timed distributor,

Harylufa did not understand that setting the timing of the distributor on the bench actually set it at 4 deg BTDC. He thought it set it at TDC and that he needed a timing mark to set 4 BTDC. Now he knows better.