Newbie Question - Shifting suddenly difficult !

[Dave Young]

Ok ... I'll admit it ... I've been pouting over some ridicule I received on what I thought was a legitimate question from a newbie owner. Several of the good guys here contacted me and wisely told me to forget these insulting replies and stay with it ... so, I've swallowed my pride, got up, dusted myself off, and I'm starting all over again. (lyrics from a 1930's Fred Astaire song).

So I'm bracing myself, but here goes ...

My 1929 Tudor is suddenly getting harder and harder to change gear. And I'm talking about 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd. (forget about downshifting, I can't do that anyway, so I can only assume the same applies).

There doesn't seem to be any reason for it that I'm aware of. Smooth as silk up to about a week ago, but very difficult now. From what I've read, sounds like a serious lack of oil in the transmission ... but there's no leaks on the garage floor !

I'm 81years old and don't do crawling under cars anymore, however, I'm willing to do it in the case of my model A. (I'll tie a rope on my feet so that my wife can pull me out if I can't make it). I want to be able to rule out the lack of oil, first.

But to save me the indignity of trying to get under and out from under the car, can any of you experienced guys offer any alternate reasons why it's suddenly become so hard to shift. Don't get too technical, now ... I'm no mechanic.

Thanks, Dave

[1930-Pickup]

Sorry to hear some guys gave you a tough time

Really, you need to check the transmission fluid. They do leak...its very common for cars of this era. A dry trans will not lubricate the shift lock detent pins and rods (sorry, too technical?) and other internal parts too.

If its not leaking at all I would be worried that your transmission is empty

How about you take it to a lube shop? Its easy to check the oil, especially on a lift. Bring a couple quarts 600W gear oil with you (from a Model A parts supplier).

By the way, you can check the oil without getting under the car, but you will need to remove the floorboard...

[WHN]

New car to you? The first thing I would recommend is change ALL fluids.

I’m only 71 but no longer can get under our car. I take to local car repair shop. They love to work on the old stuff. Young kids, you have to stand there and show them. It’s fun.

We use half STP and half 600w oil from suppliers. That’s how I would start. Enjoy.

Don’t forget u joint, not regular grease, we use John Deere Cornhead grease, also use in steering box.

[Nabco]

I’m somewhat of a newbie too Dave...I noticed you are n PA, I can tell you that my car shifts a little more difficult once it starts getting colder outside, takes a little longer the trann6 oil to warm.....not sure if this is your problem or not, I’m sure the more experienced guys will check in.

Nick

[CWPASADENA]

It sounds like the trans is low on lube or the clutch is not fully releasing

If the trans is low, try to use 600W but you can get away with 90-140. We did it for years when 600W was hard to find.

If the clutch is not fully releasing, try to adjust it. This will definitely cause hard shifting.

Try to find a local Model A Club, they can usually help.

Do not pay attention to those who look down on new owners who may not know everything about the car.

We all learn by asking questions.

Chris W.

[1crosscut]

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When you say difficult to shift do you mean that it is stiff and won't go into gear, difficult to move the shift lever, gears grind when shifting... more specific information could help.

Have a neighbor kid that would be willing to crawl under the car and check it for you?? Afterwards take him/her for a ride in the car to get a treat at McDonalds or such.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

"Maybe" the clutch release lever CRACKED??? Fairly common thing, easy to check.
Bill W.

[NCRebel]

I second the idea of a young person getting involved in working on your car with you. I'm looking for an apprentice at the moment to help with the heavy load of self maintenance and garage detail. Beside the good views on cold stiffening the fluids and the gear box being dry, any new grit that entered the casement will cause the teeth to be blocked and the plates not turn smoothly.

Check the easy stuff first and I hope the easy fix is your solution.

[Jacksonlll]

Put car in neutral with engine running, push clutch in fully. Wait for about 20 sec. AND TRY TO PUT IT IN FIRST. IF IT GRINDS, your pilot bearing may be binding (big job to fix), or your clutch lever that the pedal pulls to release the clutch, may be failing and has a crack in it. Easy fix. Find a club and lean on them. Good luck.

[Dave Young]

Crosscut ... Yeah, all the above ... stiff, won't slip into next gear, wants to grind.

As for getting a youngster to get under the car ... I live in a retirement community where most of the residents are older than I am. I am the neighborhood kid ! ...
Not much chance of getting anyone else to get under the car, even for a McDonald's
hamburger.

[Paul Bennett]

Now I'm feeling bad as at age 80 I love to take naps under my car. I don't plan it that way but the scenery under there is great. Until the cold wx set in anyway. I used to sleep in my back seat to save the $5 motel charge.

Good Luck on freeing your transmission. Frankly, I heard the Russians are hacking into them to monitor where you go. Sorry I don't have an answer but do have a great Christmas season.

[heneste]

Sorry to hear some have given you a hard time, questions are made to be asked. Anyways, it could be a slow leak that occurs when the car is in gear on the road or the gears could be splashing the oil through the vent hole on the top of the transmission. Is it possible the clutch may need adjustment? I'm thinking the pedal may not be travelling as far as it should if the clutch has become worn. Keep us updated on what you find and hope it's easy to fix.

[1929 Red Tudor]

I am a newbie as well, my local Model A club has been a ton of help so I say do your best to find a local club and asks for some help.

[1930-Pickup]

This really isn't an issue of a transmission problem for you. The transmission issue that you are having is only a symptom of a larger situation.

Because of your limitations, you desperately need a plan on how to solve your future vintage car problems, including adjustments and repairs above and below the car. There will be many I'm sure.

Contacting a club is a great idea. It's one idea of several ideas in your bag of tricks to keep your car maintained and repaired properly. Plan for and collect more ideas for your bag of tricks to keep this lifestyle fun.

Maintenance = Reliability,
Reliability = Safety,
Safety = Fun

[1930-Pickup]

Originally Posted by 1929 Red Tudor

I am a newbie as well, my local Model A club has been a ton of help so I say do your best to find a local club and asks for some help.

Welcome 1929 Red Tudor!

[Tom Wesenberg]

If you push the clutch to the floor, wait 10 seconds, and the gears are still spinning, then I also think you might have a crack in the clutch arm on the end of the shaft.

[BILL WILLIAMSON]

It gets HARDER & HARDER to find a club member to help. Either they're not ABLE to help, or they've passed away.
Bill Sad

[burner31]

If it's not leaking oil on the garage floor it's more than likely empty, get her filled up and drive her like there's no tomorrow...

[Big hammer]

I 2nd and 3rd the low on lube, but also will say IF your idle speed is to high this will also make it hard to shift!
And to those that gave you a hard time.................
If you where closer I would be glad to give you a hand!

[1crosscut]

I just looked to see where you are. Seems that a couple of weeks ago I was just a few miles away from you. Had I known I could have stopped by for a look. Now it would be a 1,200 mile trip. The Delaware Valley Model A Club in Philadelphia may be able to hook you up with someone to help.
You can email them at [email protected]

[Clem Clement]

Dave,
We are happy to have you join us. Ignore the
pinheads that fuss.

I'm 80 and learn from the Barn every day.

Hint: all my old cars are parked on used carpet. Easier on the back AND BRING A FULL ROLL OF PAPER TOWELS WITH YOU. MOMA WILL THINK YOU ARE BEING NEAT, BUT THE ROLL MAKES A GREAT HEAD PILLOW.

What town are you near?

[1930artdeco]

Dave in the future, Mitchell makes a tranny dip stick (I think all of the vendors sell it) that you can install and check from above. If the floor boards are new, cut a hole in it and hinge it. Then flip it up when you want to check it. Assuming that there is oil in it, and since it just started last week it is possible that something loosened up in the clutch (adj. the fingers or the arm) or maybe grease/replace the throw out bearing.

Mike

[RandyinUtah]

I think the very first thing I would check is to make sure the engine throttle lever on the steering column is fully backed off so the engine is not ideling too high. This will cause the gears to grind when shifting. Do this and go for a test ride and see if it solved your problem.

[Chuck Sea/Tac]

Here’s a thought ? Has the temperature dropped in pa.? When it’s cold, it certainly harder to shift——- at first, but gets easier as oil warms up.
I say, get someone to check oil level use your, or their, finger in the fill hole.

[Dave Young]

Thanks guys ... good advice and suggestions from all. Will try to go under the car today to check the trans oil level. (if I can still find the strength after putting up the outside Christmas lights, etc.). Oh, and I’m quite interested in those suggestions about a lower idle speed. I might be guilty there ... just never paid much attention to it. (so much to learn, so little time)

I’ll report back ...

And Clem, I’m about midpoint between Reading and Lebanon, on 422. Nearest towns are
Robesonia (east) and Myerstown (west)

[rosenkranswa]

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Looks like you're out by Reading. I live in Malvern, PA, not too far from you. For sure check the level, but it could just be the colder weather. My A's are always harder to shift once the temps drop and the 600W turns to goo. After the transmission warms up a bit things go back to normal. Happens every year and we have had below freezing temps fairy routinely now. There is a very active driving club in your area called the Active A's with lots of helpful people.

[Dave Young]

Wayne (rosenkranswa) ... I was very interested to hear about the Active A's (been searching for a local club) but I fear they're out of business.

Their website hasn't been updated since 2012 and my email to them ten minutes ago
was returned as un-deliverable.

But thanks, anyway. Dave

[Tom Wesenberg]

....

[mike657894]

On my car the floor boards are not screwed down. Which makes it really easy to check the trans oil. Mine was a inch low. The gears take up most of the space in that section so it was just a cup low. my plug was stuck a bit. Hitting a dead blow mallet into a crescent wrench can take the strain out of a stuck plug. I have the screw kits in new bags. And when my car gets back together I will probably screw the front board down fully and just put two in the larger floor board.

[Tom Wesenberg]

Originally Posted by Dave Young

Wayne (rosenkranswa) ... I was very interested to hear about the Active A's (been searching for a local club) but I fear they're out of business.

Their website hasn't been updated since 2012 and my email to them ten minutes ago
was returned as un-deliverable.

But thanks, anyway. Dave

Hmm........might need to change their name to "Inactive A's".

[serf2]

Hi Dave
Contact the Lehigh Model A club. Many of the members are local to you and a better group you won't find. I am sure they will be of help. Also my dad who is 85 lives near Pottstown and still loves Model A's and still works on them. Send me a private message and I will give you his number.
Mark
https://www.facebook.com/LehighValleyModelAClub/
http://lehigh-valley-model-a-club.webs.com/

[100IH]

Some of the old members may still be active or better yet, looking for someone to rub elbows with. Join the national club of your choice and get the member rosters. A little detective work might be the next hobby......... or just look at the above post !

[Dave Young]

Ok ... an update. I did manage to get under the car. Actually found the transmission, the drain plug and the fill plug. Unfortunately, I couldn’t move the fill plug. No way. It’s gonna
need to be up on a lift with a beefy mechanic with more strength in his wrists than I have.

But as I was crawling out from under the car (didn’t need the rope) a neighbor strolled up and asked what the problem was. Turns out, he once owned a model A and knows a hell of a lot more about them than I do. I explained the situation and he checked my clutch pedal.

Here’s your problem ... way too much play in the pedal and desperately in need of an adjustment. He explained why, and it made a lot of sense. So my next task is to find
someone who knows how to adjust it and can do it for me. (he didn’t offer and I didn’t ask)

I’ll conclude this thread when I can solve the problem. I’ve heard rumors of a mythical
mechanic who knows model A’s. I’ll try to track him down next week.

Thanks for all your comments and good suggestions. I appreciate them. Cheers, Dave

[aermotor]

This is an easy one if everything was OK before. Not much to clutch free play adjustment, do a little research on how to do it and slide under there with a couple wrenches for a minute or two.

John

[Tom Wesenberg]

Just remove the pin from the clutch adjusting rod, then turn the rod to take up the freeplay. You need about 3/4" pedal movement before the bearing touches the 6 fingers on the pressure plate.

[rosenkranswa]

The Active A's are alive and well, but are no longer a MARC chapter, now under the AACA umbrella. Contact: Membership Chairman, Bob Collins, 610-384-0236, [email protected]. We don't have a lot of younger folks in the club that are interested in maintaining the website, unfortunately.

We unfortunately just lost a longtime member last month and former MARC President, Don Ludwig.

Good Model A mechanic in the area is Mike Etling in Aston, PA, down towards Wilmington: [email protected], 610-505-4504. Aston's about a half-hour south of me. For engine work, Ora Landis at Schwalms out by Intercourse. Rag Tops in Pottstown works on Model A's as well. Used to be a really good guy in Downingtown but he retired and went out of business.

[rosenkranswa]

Most recent Active A's newsletter attached

[slammin]

Dave, you learned a good lesson. Before you drain fluid from tranny be sure you can open the fill plug. Nothing more frustrating than draining out the fluid and finding out you can't fill it. This applies to any car, not just As.

[Mikeinnj]

Originally Posted by heneste

Sorry to hear some have given you a hard time, questions are made to be asked. Anyways, it could be a slow leak that occurs when the car is in gear on the road or the gears could be splashing the oil through the vent hole on the top of the transmission. Is it possible the clutch may need adjustment? I'm thinking the pedal may not be travelling as far as it should if the clutch has become worn. Keep us updated on what you find and hope it's easy to fix.

I agree on adjusting the clutch.

[Mike Peters]

Dave, so here's the thing. Yes, your clutch needs adjustment, and Tom explained exactly how to do it, but why would your clutch it be out of adjustment this week and work perfectly last week? It's because your clutch release arm is slowly letting go. Happened on a friend's car last summer. Clutch not releasing , so he adjusted the clutch, and it worked a few miles and then the release arm finally broke. Those arms are sneaky, because they sometimes don't snap at once, bit rather, slowly give way. Soooo...when your mechanic is adjusting your clutch, get him to inspect that release arm very carefully. If it's cracked, or looks like the one in my photo, then replace it and you will never have another problem with your clutch. Happy motoring! mike

[Bill G]

The broken clutch arm happened to mine earlier this summer, and it was a rather sudden thing. When it broke, suddenly the pedal felt gimpy and was not able to release the clutch.

If this winds up being your problem, then the suppliers do sell a clutch arm that is not prone to failure. It does require a fair amount of pounding and cussing under the car to get the old pin out and the new one in.

[CWPASADENA]

Originally Posted by Magicbox51

The broken clutch arm happened to mine earlier this summer, and it was a rather sudden thing. When it broke, suddenly the pedal felt gimpy and was not able to release the clutch.

If this winds up being your problem, then the suppliers do sell a clutch arm that is not prone to failure. It does require a fair amount of pounding and cussing under the car to get the old pin out and the new one in.

If you do have to replace the clutch release arm, once you get the old pin out, you can use a grade 8 bolt and a self locking nut in place of a new pin. This is a lot easier than trying to peen over a new pin.

My experience,

Chris W.

[Bill G]

Originally Posted by CWPASADENA

If you do have to replace the clutch release arm, once you get the old pin out, you can use a grade 8 bolt and a self locking nut in place of a new pin. This is a lot easier than trying to peen over a new pin.

My experience,

Chris W.

Great idea! I will have to remember that one.