Coil killer

[39topless]

Can you kill a coil, which has a built in resistor, by trying to start a car, after reinstalling the stock type resistor under the dash? 1939 221 V8, helmet distributor, 6V. Coil is tube type with adapter on distributor.
There is electrical current to the coil and to the condenser with the ignition on. No spark from coil on cranking. Coil worked before.
Thanks, Phil

[flatjack9]

Bypass the resistor under the dash.

[ponymare]

If the coil has an internal resister, and you put another one under the dash, you are reducing the current to the coil below 6volts, hence no spark.

[39topless]

Originally Posted by ponymare

If the coil has an internal resister, and you put another one under the dash, you are reducing the current to the coil below 6volts, hence no spark.

Sorry, I left out the part about my going back to bypassing the under dash resistor again. Still no spark from coil. My question is: Did I some how kill the coil (with the built in resistor) by running it through the under dash resistor one time when cranking the engine? That does not seem possible but then, at one time, it did not seem possible for a man to change into a women and visa versa.
Thanks,
Phil

[JSeery]

Running the coil on low voltage (external and internal resistors) should not damage the coil.

[G.M.]

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I'll repeat what I posted many times. With a rebuilt stock type coil,
original parts and wiring there is no mystery when it comes to
trouble shooting. Problems are easy to find as they are repetitive. G.M.

[George/Maine]

First wire correct if pos grd ,pos wire to points and new condenser.
Take the spark plug wire out of cap and put 1/2" to grd.
You will see spark better this way 8 times in 2 turns.
If you leave wire in you see (once) per 2 turns of engine.

[39topless]

Originally Posted by G.M.

I'll repeat what I posted many times. With a rebuilt stock type coil,
original parts and wiring there is no mystery when it comes to
trouble shooting. Problems are easy to find as they are repetitive. G.M.

Thank you GM for your thoughts. It was one of your earlier posts that inspired me to return my ignition system to the original configuration and I purchased an original coil/condenser, from a fellow Barner, along with a (as advertised) "bolt and go" distributor. Parts received. Having a recently Bubba-ed distributor, I did not need to use the rusty (bolt and go? yah right) distributor but I had hopes that the Ford script coil/condenser would work. I installed the coil and condenser on my "Bubba" , installed a new under dash resistor from C & G and gave it a go. Started but ran like crap. Installed a new condenser, ran just a bit better but still like crap.
Ok, lets send the coil to Skip and, for the time being, reinstall the tube coil etc. Did it. Gave it a crank and nothing! I disconnected the under dash resistor and gave it a crank. Nothing!! Now there is electrical current to the coil but no spark from the coil when cranking.
Not sure where to go from here.
Thanks, Phil

[George/Maine]

If you are waiting for parts and want to try another coil get a 6 volt coil from AutoZone C809
Its for 51 ford no resister needed. Run direct to coil power wire use alligator clip it may start. Make sure condenser has good clean ground, and points adjusted.

[39topless]

Originally Posted by George/Maine

If you are waiting for parts and want to try another coil get a 6 volt coil from AutoZone C809
Its for 51 ford no resister needed. Run direct to coil power wire use alligator clip it may start. Make sure condenser has good clean ground, and points adjusted.

Thanks George

[Tinker]

So it ran great before the bubba rebuild? I've had a few bubba setups for me and friends and they are still running very well. Very happy, happy enough to tell my friends to purchase. I also have a skip dizzy rebuild on my 36 and it runs great. Yes he does them to. 3 of the 5 rebuilt dizzied that I've personally experienced had skip rebuilt coils. Those 3 are cars I run. Helmet coils. All crank and start quickly.

Seems to me something else is going on. Have you put a voltage meter in the coil lead? Should be around 4 volts. Maybe a bash switch issue too.

Best of luck.

[Tinker]

Originally Posted by 39topless

Can you kill a coil, which has a built in resistor, by trying to start a car, after reinstalling the stock type resistor under the dash? 1939 221 V8, helmet distributor, 6V. Coil is tube type with adapter on distributor.
There is electrical current to the coil and to the condenser with the ignition on. No spark from coil on cranking. Coil worked before.
Thanks, Phil

From this statement I'd look at the adapter unit.

[G.M.]

Originally Posted by 39topless

Thank you GM for your thoughts. It was one of your earlier posts that inspired me to return my ignition system to the original configuration and I purchased an original coil/condenser, from a fellow Barner, along with a (as advertised) "bolt and go" distributor. Parts received. Having a recently Bubba-ed distributor, I did not need to use the rusty (bolt and go? yah right) distributor but I had hopes that the Ford script coil/condenser would work. I installed the coil and condenser on my "Bubba" , installed a new under dash resistor from C & G and gave it a go. Started but ran like crap. Installed a new condenser, ran just a bit better but still like crap.
Ok, lets send the coil to Skip and, for the time being, reinstall the tube coil etc. Did it. Gave it a crank and nothing! I disconnected the under dash resistor and gave it a crank. Nothing!! Now there is electrical current to the coil but no spark from the coil when cranking.
Thanks, Phil

Phil email me and we will solve the problem. G.M. [email protected]

[BUBBAS IGNITION]

And by no means hesitate to send the distributor back for a check up. I do them the same day as we receive them and return. We do have parts failures like anyone else..

Theres quite a bit going on with these units , condensors, grounds , point settings etc....



???

[39topless]

Originally Posted by Tinker

So it ran great before the bubba rebuild? I've had a few bubba setups for me and friends and they are still running very well. Very happy, happy enough to tell my friends to purchase. I also have a skip dizzy rebuild on my 36 and it runs great. Yes he does them to. 3 of the 5 rebuilt dizzied that I've personally experienced had skip rebuilt coils. Those 3 are cars I run. Helmet coils. All crank and start quickly.

Seems to me something else is going on. Have you put a voltage meter in the coil lead? Should be around 4 volts. Maybe a bash switch issue too.

Best of luck.

It shows 5.3 volts.

[39topless]

Originally Posted by BUBBAS IGNITION

And by no means hesitate to send the distributor back for a check up. I do them the same day as we receive them and return. We do have parts failures like anyone else..

Theres quite a bit going on with these units , condensors, grounds , point settings etc....



???

Thanks Jim,
I did this about 3 weeks ago and you returned it as nearly "perfect". Thank you, Phil

[supereal]

Put a voltmeter between the coil input and ground. turn on the ignition switch and crank the engine. The reading should vary between the battery voltage (6-7 volts) and lower as the points open and close. If not, check the contact between the adapter and the rotor. Those adapters are often troublesome.