39 coupe windshield drain hoses

[charles in east texas]

Do the windshield drain hoses that go behind the kick panels go out of the car
or stop before they hit bottom. The 39 book was no help. Also is there's a trick
to installing the windshield seal. Charles

[ford38v8]

I may be wrong, but I believe the hoses end just inside the A pillars, which themselves have a drain hole. Dumb setup to be sure.

[flatheadfan]

The original "plan" was to have the drain hoses dump behind the cowl panels with the hope of the water finding a small hole (usually plugged), to drain out. I agree, it wasn't the best design. To avoid this what I did on my '35 and '36 was to route the drain hoses over to the cowl vent drain hose. With the use of a 4-way plastic connector everything now safely drains out the cowl hose.

Hope this helps.

Tom

[Clem Clement]

I ran my hoses thru the bottom of the cowl area and hanging down about an inch. No change of pooling.

[40cpe]

As far as the seal: The first rule is to get ALL the old seal out of the channel. It might be necessary to fabricate some tools to get behind the lip and get the old stuck-on, hardened seal pieces out. Then lay your seal out, lube it with silicone or your favorite rubber lube and force it into the slot. Don't stretch the seal. As you work it you will get the feel for how it goes in. You might have to remove it and start over, but you'll get there.

[charles in east texas]

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Thanks fellows! I'll look for the cowl drain hose tomorrow. that sounds like a better way to go. My buddy and I have had nothing but trouble with the seal. I have all the old seal out
which was a challenge in itself. Just can't seem to get the small part of the seal to go under the frame area where it is so tight. Thanks again for your advice. Charles

[Marvin/TN]

If there is going to be any painting involved either now or later do not use Silicone. It will contaminate everthing in or around the shop. That is unless you like moon craters in your finish. I do not allow silicone anywhere in or around my shop

[charles in east texas]

Originally Posted by Marvin/TN

If there is going to be any painting involved either now or later do not use Silicone. It will contaminate everthing in or around the shop. That is unless you like moon craters in your finish. I do not allow silicone anywhere in or around my shop

We have already used 1 can. Yikes!

[Kube]

Originally Posted by charles in east texas

Do the windshield drain hoses that go behind the kick panels go out of the car
or stop before they hit bottom. The 39 book was no help. Also is there's a trick
to installing the windshield seal. Charles

There actually is a small hole in the bottom of the cowl area that the rubber hose extruded through. Ford did not intend the water to "find a way out" on its own.

Replacing the windshield seal requires patience. As has been advised, removing ALL of the old seal is an absolute necessity. I modified a screw driver to fit in the groove. It is perhaps not the best method, but it does offer assurance that all of the old seal has been eradicated.
Installing the new seal: Fit all four corners first and only then work on the areas between the corners. The liberal use of Windex helps lubricate the new rubber and make it easier to install.

[flatheadfan]

Kube-

I can't speak directly to the drain working routine other than the cars I own ('35 and '36). On the '35 (original 39K car which I have owned for 56 years) the drain hoses were only about 12" long far short of the bottom of the cowl. There is a small hole on the bottom of the cowl (would choke a pencil), that is "suppose" to be a drain hole. A rubber tube would not fit inside the hole. It appears that the water was suppose to exit the hose and then drip down and flow toward the hole, not unlike a door drain. Again, a somewhat less than brilliant design.

Tom

[charles in east texas]

Originally Posted by Kube

There actually is a small hole in the bottom of the cowl area that the rubber hose extruded through. Ford did not intend the water to "find a way out" on its own.

Replacing the windshield seal requires patience. As has been advised, removing ALL of the old seal is an absolute necessity. I modified a screw driver to fit in the groove. It is perhaps not the best method, but it does offer assurance that all of the old seal has been eradicated.
Installing the new seal: Fit all four corners first and only then work on the areas between the corners. The liberal use of Windex helps lubricate the new rubber and make it easier to install.

Thanks Kube. We have tried for two and a half days with the seal and no luck.
Had the windshield out twice and this morning we gave up. Going to order a new seal today and start over. Charles

[40cpe]

I don't know whose seal you are using, but Drake has one that has moulded corners and is reported to seal better than the non-moulded type. I have a Carpenter seal on mine and it seems to seal against wind and most water after dinking with the frame adjustment several times.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by charles in east texas

Thanks Kube. We have tried for two and a half days with the seal and no luck.
Had the windshield out twice and this morning we gave up. Going to order a new seal today and start over. Charles

Yep, this job is for the patient! Stick with it... you'll get it.
from my experience, the molded one from Drake is the best.

[Kube]

Originally Posted by flatheadfan

Kube-

I can't speak directly to the drain working routine other than the cars I own ('35 and '36). On the '35 (original 39K car which I have owned for 56 years) the drain hoses were only about 12" long far short of the bottom of the cowl. There is a small hole on the bottom of the cowl (would choke a pencil), that is "suppose" to be a drain hole. A rubber tube would not fit inside the hole. It appears that the water was suppose to exit the hose and then drip down and flow toward the hole, not unlike a door drain. Again, a somewhat less than brilliant design.

Tom

I can't speak of 35 - 36 cars. But can only suggest that Ford was evolving in the design. Just one year prior, in '34, the hose exited the firewall. Again, not a great design but one can see the evolving design.
On the '39, the hose was in fact routed through the hole in the lower cowl section (each side).

[charles in east texas]

This afternoon I found how water drains out after it exits the drain hoses. With a piece of stiff wire I punched around the bottom of the "A" puller and sure enough the wire came out and hit the running board. The space is nothing more than a small slit between two pieces of metal. Charles

[Clem Clement]

Charles,
I ran the hose thru that area(which had been rebuilt with some welding and bondo so the hoses stuck out below that section. Then I dumped some old paint in the area to seal things. Then dumped some used oil in the same area. Ain't nuthin gonna rust in that area.

[Texaswino]

Charles, I have a brand new Drake WS gasket that I did not use on my 37. You can have it for cost. I'm in Mt Vernon.