My rear drum is stuck

[bikemaniac]

Hi,
I have serious issues getting my left rear drum off. The right one was also difficult and required a puller. Inspecting the conical axle surface and the conical mating part of the drum revealed a small area which looked like the parts were welded together due to high pressure and no grease. The puller was able to snap that strange high pressure welding.

The left drum is completely stuck: I tried heating the area where the other drum showed the inside welding marks. While heating with the propane torch I exerted a strong force using a puller. I guess I have heated the hub part to approx 400 degF ... but very very far from any color change towards red/yellow.

I tried slapping the drum with a 2 pound plastic mallet to see if I can free the bond. I tried slapping the drum while the puller is pulling, but nothing helps.

I use a normal 2 arm puller, but the pulling force is so high that the arms are sliding off. I feel that a lot of outward force is applied to the system, but nothing helps.

Does anyone know how I can get the drum off?

Lucas

[160B]

Here is a link to an drum puller that works very well

http://brattons.com/prodtype.asp?PT_...SearchCriteria=


K.R. WILSON REAR WHEEL HUB PULLER For Year(s): 28-48

An exact copy of the K.R. Wilson tool. This tough tool should remove any tight hub from 1928-48 Ford cars. Will not work on the protruding ring style of hub.

[mantta]

I had to heat one of mine to get it off but, I heated it with pullers on it and then shocked it with water and it popped right off.

[WestCoast]

i prefer the 3 arm drum puller, but what ever one you use take 2 2 1/2#hammers , put one on the back side of the drum snout and smack the front side of snout with the other hammer, do that all the way around a couple of times, when you do that the snout is distorted just a little bit thus breaking the wedge seal on the snout, tighten the puller as tight as you can and leave it, come back every hour or so and tighten it some more, you mave to leave the puller on all night, just keep tighting the puller till the drum pops off , take your time and you will win

[Bud]

Be careful beating on the end of the axle with either the KRW puller or other similar Ford puller. The threads can get messed up, bent, broken off, or the cotter hole could collapse. Or all of the above. (Learned this the hard way).
I like the idea of putting static tension on it and hitting it with heat (no gasoline in the area--best to do it outdoors). Also, try using a light to medium weight metal hammer rather than the plastic ones. Vibration, heat and cold should eventually remove it. Use several heat cycles from fully cold to hot. The thermal changes should break the rust bond. Eventually it will break loose. If you beat hard on the end, plan on new axles--IF you can get the hub over the threads. Patience is the best.

[H. L. Chauvin]

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FWIW:

Just one (1) similar experience.

I have the "Universal" hub puller that Synder's sells for approximately $85.00.

After calling the "Universal" manufacturer about a most difficult Model A rear hub, he told me that after more tightening, to just hit his designed center lug harder with a bigger hammer.

He also said that if his tool broke, (which he promised would not break), he would send me a new one for free.

He was correct ........... with never applying heat, on about the 10th lick with a large 1860's blacksmith's hammer with about a 16" long wood handle, and after continuing to tighten after every 3rd or so lick, everything came apart undamaged.

If your hub is securely welded, this is just another different experience for yet another day.

[Mitch//pa]

Originally Posted by H. L. Chauvin

FWIW:

Just one (1) similar experience.

I have the "Universal" hub puller that Synder's sells for approximately $85.00.

After calling the "Universal" manufacturer about a most difficult Model A rear hub, he told me that after more tightening, to just hit his designed center lug harder with a bigger hammer.

He also said that if his tool broke, (which he promised would not break), he would send me a new one for free.

He was correct ........... with never applying heat, on about the 10th lick with a large 1860's blacksmith's hammer with about a 16" long wood handle, and after continuing to tighten after every 3rd or so lick, everything came apart undamaged.

If your hub is securely welded, this is just another different experience for yet another day.

thats common practice when using most pullers on modern stuff like pitman arms and axle shafts etc

[WestCoast]

Mitch, I forgot to add that part about hitting the center bolt with a big hammer after you tighten the puller, heck im old I forget some of the most important things a lot

[Tinker]

Might help... Lightly loosen the axle nut and drive it in a circle left or right, you decide. Then a good puller.

[bikemaniac]

I got it off with a big bang. I heated it forever, used a bigger puller, was almost destroying the hole for the clevis pin. The pressure was enormous ... it looked like I was wrecking the 200 dollar puller.

Lucas

[Brentwood Bob]

well you got it off.
Bob

[bikemaniac]

Now my brakes are adjusted. And they are much better now. Now they are ready for the Transamerica trip I am planning. Above there was a discussion on drum quality: My front drums are cast iron while the rear ones are of the steel sheet type.

Lucas

[Bob C]

I don't know if anybody mentioned it but make sure the axle and hub
are clean when you reassemble it no grease, oil,or never seize on the taper.

Bob

[bikemaniac]

Originally Posted by Bob C

I don't know if anybody mentioned it but make sure the axle and hub
are clean when you reassemble it no grease, oil,or never seize on the taper.

Bob

Why?

[Marshall57]

I have had the same trouble when trying to use a drum puller, it nearly ruined the axle and deformed the puller (smashed the tip flat) I will be trying that loosen the axle nut and drive it just a bit trick. There has to be a better idea out there. I am dreading pulling them off again to look at or replace the back brakes.

[Bob C]

I tried to find a good explanation on line but no luck.
Basically friction hold the taper from turning and oil or
grease equals no friction.

Bob

[larrys40]

Glad you got it off.. In the future suggest using the KR Wilson style hub puller and using the axle protector nut supplied with the puller on the end of the axle and then install the puller and apply torque.
I use a good 1/2 air impact to tighten. I use a large brass hammer or small hand sledge to apply a wrap or two if needed. I am not a fan of applying heat to it unless absolutely necessary. The KR Wilson ABV156 hub puller will do the job except for the '28 style hub
I have a variety of hub pullers and it is still the best. It pulls the hub and not the drum by the lugs... and has not failed me once.
Yes, you can have a stubborn one now and then but they will come with the right tool and methodology.
Larry Shepard

[glenn in camino]

Release the hand brake.

[Charlie Stephens]

Originally Posted by bikemaniac

Hi,
I have serious issues getting my left rear drum off. The right one was also difficult and required a puller. Inspecting the conical axle surface and the conical mating part of the drum revealed a small area which looked like the parts were welded together due to high pressure and no grease. The puller was able to snap that strange high pressure welding.

The left drum is completely stuck: I tried heating the area where the other drum showed the inside welding marks. While heating with the propane torch I exerted a strong force using a puller. I guess I have heated the hub part to approx 400 degF ... but very very far from any color change towards red/yellow.

I tried slapping the drum with a 2 pound plastic mallet to see if I can free the bond. I tried slapping the drum while the puller is pulling, but nothing helps.

I use a normal 2 arm puller, but the pulling force is so high that the arms are sliding off. I feel that a lot of outward force is applied to the system, but nothing helps.

Does anyone know how I can get the drum off?

Lucas

Lucas,

Just a couple of comments. The hubs are supposed to require a puller to get them off, otherwise they are too loose which will result in a broken axle. Second, there is not supposed to be any grease on the axle where the hub attaches, the fit between the axle and the hub carries the load and grease will result in the key trying to carry the load. I have had the best luck with the reproduction KR Wilson puller.

Charlie Stephens