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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: McGregor, IA
Posts: 233
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In my previous vacuum guage thread I closed with “off to the next adventure” I will add also the the motor runs great even though I suspect it’s a little tired but I don’t want to check the compression and open that can of worms, something’s are better left unknown for the present.
My next project is to refinish the steering wheel. It’s off and in the final stages of JB weld and sanding, the column drop is refinished as is the tube and the center cap. But I made the mistake of trying to take up some of the steering wheel play and while the tires were off the ground I checked for lose wheel bearings turned them right and left and the steering box sounds like a rock crusher. I would like to take it out but I don’t have a hoist. The headers look a little in the way for going out through the passenger compartment. So finally the question. Can I get it out the bottom? I was thinking of possibly just getting the whole axle assembly out of the way?
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Cheers, Jim&Sandy McGregor, IA |
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#2 |
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Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Orcas Island Washington
Posts: 4,935
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I have read where a lot of people, even at the request of the rebuilder cut the shaft and tube maybe six inches above the box and send it in that way. Sleeve the shaft and weld back. If it were me I would cut it now, deal with it, rebuild etc and weld er up. Think about the stresses. Shaft maybe 5/8" , circumference like an inch and 3/4 of weld to shear off by arm strength.
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Owner/Operator of 'Jailbar Ranch' on the side of Mt. Pickett. Current stable consists of 1946 1/2 ton pickup turned woodie wagon with FH V8, 1947 Tonner Pickup (red) mostly stock with exception of a cummins 6at turbo diesel, 1946 Tonner Pickup (green) with 226 cu in 6 cyl flathead, 1979 Toyota landcruiser wagon, completely encased in 1947 Ford Jailbar sheet metal. Ok, cornbinder rear fenders..... 'Rusty ol' floorboards, hot on their feet' (Alan Jackson) |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: McGregor, IA
Posts: 233
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Thanks GB. That’s an approach I wouldn’t have thought of but something I could do.
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Cheers, Jim&Sandy McGregor, IA |
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#4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: McGregor, IA
Posts: 233
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Does anyone have more advice before I cut the steering shaft to remove the steering box? I will get the sleeve before I cut and index it for length and clocking. Any more input would be appreciated.
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Cheers, Jim&Sandy McGregor, IA |
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#5 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: East Shore of LAKE HOUSTON
Posts: 11,113
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#6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: McGregor, IA
Posts: 233
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Cheers, Jim&Sandy McGregor, IA |
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#7 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 563
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#8 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: McGregor, IA
Posts: 233
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Hey Crankster! Right now something’s are best unknown. It runs ok, doesn’t smoke, has its share of blowby. Had it out to repair oil pan leak and from what I saw it looks old but what I don’t know or want to know is how tired it is. It also steered OK, just a little slop that I tried to adjust out and then like I said I made the mistake of grabbing hold of a wheel and turning it right and left and heard the marbles rattling around, now I HAVE TO FIX it. Maybe next year I’ll do the compression test and HAVE TO freshen the engine up. Just trying to keep the money bleed under control.
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Cheers, Jim&Sandy McGregor, IA |
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#9 |
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 10,319
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I have a stupid question. If one has a lift (or can get the car jacked up far enough), can the steering gear be removed from the bottom after removing the steering wheel and the appropriate fasteners?
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#10 |
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Join Date: Oct 2017
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Yabut, that's what I'm trying to tell you, if it's pulling 20" vacuum you already know compression is acceptable. Don't stress over this! Try some Marvel's in both the gas and oil per the directions on the can if it seems a little down on power.
Lower compression is caused by excessive wear in piston rings and cylinders but oftentimes this can be deceptive, in vintage engines it can also be caused by excessive carbon & gum varnish resulting in stuck piston rings. A solvent like Marvel's really helps with this, it was designed for dissolving carbon and gum residues, it also helps keeps valves moving freely too. It won't repair worn rings, but it's worth eliminating stuck rings as a possibility. |
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#11 |
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Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: McGregor, IA
Posts: 233
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Tubman, I guess this is exactly what I’m going to find out but the info I’ve run across says you need a lift. Stupid me for building with 10’ ceiling and having other toys. I have decided to jack it up and see what clearance I have. If not enough I will remove the front axle assy.
Crankster, I wouldn’t know if it is down on power from what it should be. I drive a ‘14 F150 3.5 Ecoboost so the flathead is definitely down on power in comparison. Since I set the timing and carb plus the guide for the pedal rod so it wasn’t moving side to side 4” it is way better than before. I can sense it being strangled at higher rpm’s so I’m thinking about a Merc manifold and GM two barrel and a modified sbc distributor. But that’s a ways off. Right now I’m just happy as a hog in slop driving it, glass packs, 3 on the floor, no power steering or brakes.
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Cheers, Jim&Sandy McGregor, IA |
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#12 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: East Shore of LAKE HOUSTON
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I don't know why the steering box could not be removed from the bottom. The picture below shows what is likely a '38 Ford because of the visible cable conduits for the cable brakes. Otherwise, it ought to be pretty close to what you have. This picture shows the RUSTY engine pans in place. MOST cars of this vintage have had their engine pans removed. Without the pans in place, I'm not sure that there would be any problem with the box/column coming out the bottom except for possibly the tie rod being in the way. Tie rods come off easily! Second shot shows a straight-down view of the drag link and tie rod on another '38 with V8-60 engine (that goofy-looking bracket is a V8-60 engine mount). With drag link disconnected, that box/column should almost FALL out of there. DD |
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#13 |
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Columbus, IN
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I have a 1937 5 window coupe. I was able to remove the entire steering box and column assembly out through the car with the steering wheel installed. The seat was not attached to the floor and the left floorboard was removed. Also no engine in the frame. I don't know if having the engine installed would prevent getting the steering box through the opening.
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#14 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: McGregor, IA
Posts: 233
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The headers welded to the exhaust pipes on mine look to block the out through the inside route. I have the steering wheel off, the column tube the column drop and the horn/light switch rod removed.
Another question: are both of the upper bushings for the steering shaft the same? My top one didn’t look the same as the just above the column drop. But the top one was more deteriorated than the bottom one. It was soft and gooey and conformed to the flare as it poked out of the column outer tube.
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Cheers, Jim&Sandy McGregor, IA |
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#15 |
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Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: McGregor, IA
Posts: 233
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I started on the steering box project. It’s up in the air, ties dangling from the spring. Pitman arm nut off via a punch on the slots in the nut (I’ll have to get the proper socket for reassembly. Dropping the drag link was a little more challenging but a little heat from a small butane torch convinced it!
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Cheers, Jim&Sandy McGregor, IA |
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#16 | |
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: East Shore of LAKE HOUSTON
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Yikes ...You had better check that seal where the sector exits the steering box casting. That much concentrated heat may have fried the seal. You mean that everybody doesn't have a Pitman arm puller? Mine's a "Lisle" brand that I've likely had for 55 years now. DD . |
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#17 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: McGregor, IA
Posts: 233
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I’m not thinking that seal was warmed much. It’s just a micro butane torch and I only used it on the drag link end of the pitman arm. Thanks
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Cheers, Jim&Sandy McGregor, IA |
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#18 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: McGregor, IA
Posts: 233
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Box is out and disassembled. Pitman arm popped off with the three jaw gear puller. Sector gear is toast, worm gear is toast, all the bearings are toast. But the sector shaft bushings look and feel good with the old shaft. Now to source parts. Get the one bearing cup ( steering wheel shaft) out and clean things up.
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Cheers, Jim&Sandy McGregor, IA |
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#19 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: McGregor, IA
Posts: 233
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![]() [url]https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=5387&pictureid=43571[ After. https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/pictu...ictureid=44297
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Cheers, Jim&Sandy McGregor, IA Last edited by miniceptor86; 12-02-2021 at 05:13 PM. |
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#20 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Minnesota, Florida Keys
Posts: 10,319
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I don't think the "Before" picture posted correctly, but the "After" looks great!
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