|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
07-29-2012, 06:55 AM | #21 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Convoy, Ohio
Posts: 124
|
Re: Installing front and rear springs
I put both my springs together that way - leaf at a time - used a threaded rod and a couple of BIG c-clamps
I wish now I had known about using the slip plate between them (it was 25 yrs ago - back when Fordbarn was probably an old shed Maybe I'll put this on my winter project to do list - |
07-29-2012, 09:40 AM | #22 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Olympia, WA
Posts: 691
|
Re: Installing front and rear springs
Also, be sure to taper the ends of the leaves so they won't catch each other in the spring pack.
Pete |
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|
07-29-2012, 06:53 PM | #23 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Anchorage, Alaska
Posts: 9,115
|
Re: Installing front and rear springs
Thanks again Tom, BTW Napa has Slip Plate, part #BK33203. Not all stores carry it, but can usually get it in a day or so from their warehouse -- even in Alaska!
|
07-29-2012, 09:22 PM | #24 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Southern California
Posts: 3,131
|
Re: Installing front and rear springs
Quote:
He is absolutely correct. The bottom of each leaf, on the ends, is cut with a 90 degree edge, even the originals. The edge bites into the leaf below and causes a depression. When restoring a spring beside rounding the edge off you should also try to flatten out the depression with a disk sander. Tom Endy |
|
08-11-2012, 12:25 PM | #25 |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Three Forks, MT 59752
Posts: 71
|
Re: Installing front and rear springs
Thanks everyone for your help. I borrowed the spring spreader from Dean in Bozeman. Worked great. The only other problem I ran into was mounting the front spring. The castle nuts don't go on far enough on the U bolts to insert the cotter pins. Yes all the parts are correct for my 29. Any suggestion or is this a common thing?
|
08-11-2012, 02:13 PM | #26 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: new britain,ct 06052
Posts: 9,390
|
Re: Installing front and rear springs
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)
Paul in CT |
08-11-2012, 02:48 PM | #27 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Mpls, MN
Posts: 27,582
|
Re: Installing front and rear springs
If the top leaf is a replacement be sure the edges of it are beveled to fit the rounded part in the crossmember.
|
08-11-2012, 04:20 PM | #28 |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Three Forks, MT 59752
Posts: 71
|
Re: Installing front and rear springs
The front spring is a used 10 leaf that has been powder coated. The bolt is in the hole in the frame. I will check the top leaf.
Thanks for the help! |
08-11-2012, 06:16 PM | #29 |
Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Three Forks, MT 59752
Posts: 71
|
Re: Installing front and rear springs
I bet I am going to be told my whole problem is the thickness of the powder coating. I'll just find shorter castle nuts and make everything work.
|
08-11-2012, 11:36 PM | #30 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Millbrae, CA
Posts: 504
|
Re: Installing front and rear springs
Yes, powder coat thickness can affect fits. I spent a couple plus hours last week just fitting spring clamps on the lower few leafs on my front spring. I had to file an elongated hole in the clamps and carefully knock down some of the powder coat where it was not visible. ...hope the shorter nuts work for you.
|
|
|
Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) |
|