Carburetor/ Fuel Pump Information

[KULTULZ]

Mechanical fuel pumps:

ALL new pumps as of 5 years ago are made overseas and are WAY over pressured for older carbs. Your choices are, have your old one rebuilt, or install a 1-4lb regulator.

We have dozens of folks a week calling in and they have blown the gaskets out of their carbs or have massive flooding.

ALL carbs that say NEW are from China or worse. Holley and Edelbrock have not made a carb in the US since 2000. Someone in China is using the Carter name on metric copies.

Pay thru the nose and use original carbs made here.

MORE INFO HERE - https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...dbits.1280876/

[Daves55Sedan]

I don't think new fuel pumps for Y-block and FE engines have been any good since the late '90's. All the brand X fuel pressure regulators are failures. A top-of-the-line Holley won't be able to hold back the high-pressure longer than a month on cars driven daily.
Currently, none of the repro parts suppliers are offering rebuild kits for Y-block/FE 8's and mileage-maker 6's original fuel pumps. And if they did, I wouldn't trust em to be any better than buying one of the foriegn-made new pumps.
Solution: if High-fuel pressure exists, get a Wix bypass fuel filter for a Mopar car and install it ahead of the carb. Place a piece of smaller tubing INSIDE the carb inlet tubing as an orifice to cause gas to back-up into the Wix bypass. Run a whole new line of tubing from the Wix to a new port at the top of the gas tank for fuel return. Now your carb will not flood out at idle.

[Daves55Sedan]

Fuel pump pressures need to be compatible with the carb in use. The '55 Ford 272 Y-block with 2-bbl carb inlet pressure was 5 PSI maximum. Some people who have been having problems with high fuel pressure will opt for an AIRTEX #E8902, 6-volt, 2.5 - 4 PSI electric fuel pump.
These would be a good fit for this application and they offer a 12-volt version as well for '56 Fords or '55's that have been converted to 12-volts.

[Grim70]

There are a few kits on FeeBay, Anyone had any luck with those? I have an older glass bowl, no vacuum pump I'd like to try and rebuild.

[5851a]

I thought there was a member here that rebuilt fuel pumps?

[scicala]

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Originally Posted by 5851a

I thought there was a member here that rebuilt fuel pumps?

Charlie Schwendler is the man you're thinking about.
He is no loger a member of the Ford Barn (was charlie ny), but I believe he still looks at the posts. Can't reply though. He also does carburetors. Mainly Holley 94's and Strombergs His info is:

Charlie Schwendler
(716) 662-9159
[email protected]

Sal

[KULTULZ]

Charlie Schwendler is the man you're thinking about.

He is no loger a member of the Ford Barn (was charlie ny) ...

Wonder why that is? ...

[scicala]

Originally Posted by KULTULZ

Wonder why that is? ...

Ryan (the administrator) banned Charlie permanently for posting something that he took as not politically correct. I disagree with the ban. Charlie was about the most generous, knowledgeable and nicest guy on Earth.
Ryan posted what Charlie said on the Early V8 Forum. Not sure if it's still there. If so, the title of the post will have "Charlie" in it.

Sal

[KULTULZ]

Ryan (the administrator) banned Charlie permanently for posting something that he took as not politically correct. I disagree with the ban. Charlie was about the most generous, knowledgeable and nicest guy on Earth.

It figures.

Invaluable loss of knowledge and ability.

[fiddy6]

I have had good success with a carter and a Holley 4000 aka teapot.

I rebuilt the carb... new float & needle+seat. The carb has a "Ted Eaton" vacuum mod for a 57+ distributor.

This is what I got.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRT-M4008

Its done two years now.

no regulator.

Ethanol in fuel matters.

Disclaimer:
No warranties express or implied. Experience may vary.

[Daves55Sedan]

Originally Posted by Grim70

There are a few kits on FeeBay, Anyone had any luck with those? I have an older glass bowl, no vacuum pump I'd like to try and rebuild.

I would think twice about buying any carb or fuel pump rebuild kits on e-pay unless they specifically state that all components are ethanol friendly. But you can buy those kits direct from the repro parts suppliers, so why bother with e-pay. My policy is to avoid e-pay unless all else fails.
Far as I know, the repro parts suppliers are beginning to offer kits for flathead engine fuel pumps, but I don't think they offer kits for newer engines. Instead, they sell new pumps mfd in china.

[Daves55Sedan]

I wondered why I hadn't seen a post from CharlieNY in a long long time. Hey brother, if you are reading still....We love ya baby!!!

[Grim70]

Originally Posted by Daves55Sedan

I would think twice about buying any carb or fuel pump rebuild kits on e-pay unless they specifically state that all components are ethanol friendly. But you can buy those kits direct from the repro parts suppliers, so why bother with e-pay. My policy is to avoid e-pay unless all else fails.
Far as I know, the repro parts suppliers are beginning to offer kits for flathead engine fuel pumps, but I don't think they offer kits for newer engines. Instead, they sell new pumps mfd in china.

Agree, sometimes that place is a necessary evil... I'm thinking when I looked at the other places maybe they were out of stock.

[scicala]

Originally Posted by Daves55Sedan

I would think twice about buying any carb or fuel pump rebuild kits on e-pay unless they specifically state that all components are ethanol friendly. But you can buy those kits direct from the repro parts suppliers, so why bother with e-pay. My policy is to avoid e-pay unless all else fails.
Far as I know, the repro parts suppliers are beginning to offer kits for flathead engine fuel pumps, but I don't think they offer kits for newer engines. Instead, they sell new pumps mfd in china.

I usually get the best prices on carb kits from EBAY. I have certain sellers picked out. Sometimes even Amazon or Autozone and O'Reilley's.
Also, all new carb kits are ethanol compatible. The old NOS kits, not so much.

Sal

[dmsfrr]

Originally Posted by scicala

...
Also, all new carb kits are ethanol compatible. The old NOS kits, not so much.

I would think the plastic and (especially) rubber parts in old NOS kits aged out long ago.
Likely to fail fairly soon.

[58Yeoman]

More than a few years back, I tried a Mr. Gasket fuel regulator on my Chevy...didn't take long and it was leaking like a sieve. Bought a new Holley, and it didn't last much longer. Went back to none with just a fuel filter. The pump on my engine is probably over 30 years old as I don't remember ever having changed it since I built the car in the early 90's. Until last week, it had an Edelbrock 1406, and I've heard that the Ed's need low pressure.

Now, I've upgraded to an Ed 1906 and it's very responsive, but still no fuel reg on it. I really don't want to have to pull the tank and have another nipple put in for a return line, although there is a vent right below the fill cap. Am I dreaming that years ago, someone put a T before the fuel pump and another before the carb and just connected the two, kind of circulating the fuel? I look at the regs online and would just hate to spend more money and have the new one crap out also.

[Gene F]

My tri-power has a regulator and a gage. I keep it about 1 1/2.

[Daves55Sedan]

Originally Posted by scicala

Also, all new carb kits are ethanol compatible. The old NOS kits, not so much. Sal

Yes all new carb kits available are ethanol friendly. The NOS kits for sale on e-pay aren't worth a penny and should never be used in a carb rebuild today. They are only good as a museum piece as long as they include the original package.

[Daves55Sedan]

Originally Posted by 58Yeoman

Am I dreaming that years ago, someone put a T before the fuel pump and another before the carb and just connected the two, kind of circulating the fuel?

I considered doing that on my '55 Courier when I was trying to come up with a solution for the constant flooding of the carb. I feared that the fuel in the line ahead of the pump "tee" would cavitate due to the rise of the line from the gas tank to the floor of the car and over to the frame rail. This makes a high point which could lose fuel at the top run of the line and suck all the gas back into the tank if the pump is pumping recycled gas only.
I decided not to take the chance and went with a bypass line, but I had the new gas tank on the garage floor anyway and added a 5/16" port at the top right rear at an angle around the top bend of the gas tank where the tank sticks out over the spare-tire well. I am sure glad I did.
The physics of this thing is pretty tricky considering everything involved. I used and threw away several of the cheapie regulators and one expensive Holley regulator before I went the bypass route. None of the regulators (3 different brands) could handle the fuel pressure more than a month.

[KULTULZ]

If you are looking for an easy and cheap return fuel line to the tank, here is a filler tube modification (no actual tank modification) -

[paul2748]

Arthur Gould Rebuilders ( Mass )rebuilds fuel pumps. I had him do some for me and they work. Last time I spoke to him he does not do china pumps, but you might ask him if that is still true. USA, Mexico, Canada pumps are rebuildable. I think they also do water pumps. 508-210-0891

[KULTULZ]

- THE BOY JUST HAD ANOTHER SENIOR MOMENT -

- DON'T EVEN ASK -