The Ford Barn

Great Lakes Greg · 09-10-2011, 07:38 PM

I have installed a new wiring harness on a fresh restoration and, predictably, am having ground issues with both headlights and the teacup on the back. Before I get carried away sanding off paint, I would be interested in hearing the most direct route to accomplish this. I think the headlights are pretty straight forward, and I intend to get bare metal in the headlight bar cups, then the carraige bolts through the fender to the fender bracket and then the fender bracket bolts to the frame. It's the teacup mounting that is giving me pause. What are your methods here? Thanks Barners.

dumb person · 09-10-2011, 08:21 PM

A black wire running where people are unlikey to see it

BRENT in 10-uh-C · 09-11-2011, 09:06 AM

Greg, if I recall correctly you are building a fine-point vehicle where authenticity is important. You are experiencing the same nemesis we seemingly face with our restorations. My suggestion is begin grinding "over-restored" areas of paint until you can obtain a completed circuit. Then use dielectric grease to prevent rust on those metal bare areas.
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Tom Wesenberg · 09-11-2011, 11:36 AM

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I would think the split lockwasher would bite through the paint. If it doesn't, then try loosening it and retighten it a couple times. I also like to use grease on the threads and lock washer, then after it's assembled wipe off any excess grease.

To check for a bad ground, you could just run a long jumper wire fron the light body to the battery + or other known good ground. No use fighting a light body ground problem, if the problem is really something else, like a light socket to light body poor connection at the mounting rivet. Yep, I've had that happen to my own car when I first bought it.

09-10-2011, 07:38 PM	#1
Great Lakes Greg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 1,369	Grounding lights through paint I have installed a new wiring harness on a fresh restoration and, predictably, am having ground issues with both headlights and the teacup on the back. Before I get carried away sanding off paint, I would be interested in hearing the most direct route to accomplish this. I think the headlights are pretty straight forward, and I intend to get bare metal in the headlight bar cups, then the carraige bolts through the fender to the fender bracket and then the fender bracket bolts to the frame. It's the teacup mounting that is giving me pause. What are your methods here? Thanks Barners.

09-10-2011, 08:21 PM	#2
dumb person Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: South pacific island Posts: 1,724	Re: Grounding lights through paint A black wire running where people are unlikey to see it

09-11-2011, 09:06 AM	#3
BRENT in 10-uh-C Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Eastern Tennessee Posts: 11,537	Re: Grounding lights through paint Greg, if I recall correctly you are building a fine-point vehicle where authenticity is important. You are experiencing the same nemesis we seemingly face with our restorations. My suggestion is begin grinding "over-restored" areas of paint until you can obtain a completed circuit. Then use dielectric grease to prevent rust on those metal bare areas. . . __________________ . BRENT in 10-uh-C . www.model-a-ford.com ...(...Finally Updated!! ) .

09-11-2011, 11:36 AM	#4
Tom Wesenberg Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Mpls, MN Posts: 27,582	Re: Grounding lights through paint Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) I would think the split lockwasher would bite through the paint. If it doesn't, then try loosening it and retighten it a couple times. I also like to use grease on the threads and lock washer, then after it's assembled wipe off any excess grease. To check for a bad ground, you could just run a long jumper wire fron the light body to the battery + or other known good ground. No use fighting a light body ground problem, if the problem is really something else, like a light socket to light body poor connection at the mounting rivet. Yep, I've had that happen to my own car when I first bought it.