fender identification question

[old ugly]

i just bought these, being sold as 30-31. i think they are 1928-29
what year are they? look beyond the damage, lol.

thank you
ou

[Oldbluoval]

Looks on the hood sleeves like 28-29.
If it were a cadaver it would have to be identified by dental records!
Sorry, couldn’t resist but they are butt-ugly!

[old ugly]

they are almost a cadaver, must have had dentures. lol .
they look good in the eyes of a retired bodyman with lots of time and lots of perseverance.

[Oldbluoval]

Understood!
You should see what I’ve got for a customer. The previous mutilator has a passion for brazing and brass! Needless to say all that has to be cut out and patches made.
Regrets on acceptance of the project as could not see all the brass for primer……..

[old ugly]

when i started in the trade in the early 70s lots of brazing panels on. so glad when shops got mig welders

[Oldbluoval]

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I mig and tig, occasional OA……depending
I don’t run into much brass but lots of BAD OA that warps badly.

[rotorwrench]

Brazzing is terrible for thin sheet metal. The spot a person has to heat up to melt the brass to it just keeps growing with heat applied and it can have disastrous results. The metal just gets burned up unless the person doing the work has all the right stuff and way too much patience. I gas weld stuff all the time but steel welding with the correct size tips for the thickness only affects a very small spot. A person just has to keep moving around on a joint line with sufficient time to let things cool a bit before moving. This also gives a chance to hammer & dolly on the welds a bit when needed to keep things straight.

[frank55a]

To answer your question, the fenders are late 28 or 29. The early 28 fenders had a pronounced curve on the back side next to the hood.

[40-A Twins]

I bought a pair of fenders a few months ago in similar condition and spent a lot of hours hammering away at the dents. Both had intact bead and had not been messed up by amateur brazing or OA welds. I made a long reach hammer to pound out the dents in the crown area without leaving a crescent shaped mark from hitting the edge of the hammer. I am still trying to remember how I straightened out the wiggles in the bead line on other fenders I worked on years ago.
Kevin

[frank55a]

Back in the mid 60s I had an artist (old body man) show/tell me how to straighten the bead edge of fenders absolutely straight, impossible to get them straighter. I did it on a 28 tudor and have never seen a straighter line on the fenders front to rear.
1. Mount the fenders on the body.
2. Move the car to a place in the shop that the car will NOT be disturbed (i.e., moved).
3. Using a plum bob along the bead, mark a few spots on the floor both front and rear on both sides of the car.
4. Using the most strait marks, split the marks and snap a chalk line on the floor both sides from front to rear.
5. DO NOT MOVE THE CAR.
6. As you straighten the fenders as you would normally. Use the the plum bob along the edge of the fender to ensure the edge directly lines up with the straight chalk line on the floor.

If you do not get in a rush and take your time you can get the fenders insanely straight and you do not need to be a fantastic body man.

[old ugly]

Originally Posted by frank55a

To answer your question, the fenders are late 28 or 29. The early 28 fenders had a pronounced curve on the back side next to the hood.

thank you

[aermotor]

Originally Posted by 40-A Twins

I bought a pair of fenders a few months ago in similar condition and spent a lot of hours hammering away at the dents. Both had intact bead and had not been messed up by amateur brazing or OA welds. I made a long reach hammer to pound out the dents in the crown area without leaving a crescent shaped mark from hitting the edge of the hammer. I am still trying to remember how I straightened out the wiggles in the bead line on other fenders I worked on years ago.
Kevin

They appear to me to be 2 different years. Notice the apparent difference in the head light mounts from the front of the fenders.

[aermotor]

Originally Posted by 40-A Twins

I bought a pair of fenders a few months ago in similar condition and spent a lot of hours hammering away at the dents. Both had intact bead and had not been messed up by amateur brazing or OA welds. I made a long reach hammer to pound out the dents in the crown area without leaving a crescent shaped mark from hitting the edge of the hammer. I am still trying to remember how I straightened out the wiggles in the bead line on other fenders I worked on years ago.
Kevin

It looks to me like the 2 headlight bar mounts are at a different position fore and aft and the inner part of the fenders have a different curve on the front bottom.