12v Gauges

[Bill C]

I'm converting my '47 Coupe to 12 volt. Has anyone else done this? If so, what gauges were used to fit in original dash. I've seen some with gauges replaced, but I couldn't find out any info. Any ideas?

[Pilot31135]

Can you use a 12 to 6 volt reducer? I believe all ford gauges were 6v all the way up until the 60's, even though the car was 12v. Typical ford, saved money by just using an inexpensive voltage reducer instead of producing 12v gauges.

[JSeery]

Take a look at http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/6v-to-12v.html

[drolston]

I converted my '41 coupe to 12 volt negative ground. Used Runtz converters from Speedway for the instruments. No need to change the gauges themselves. Pretty easy to install, and have been working fine.

The horn is the trickiest. The horn relay must be changed, and that is not a big deal. But I have found no way to reduce voltage to the horn itself for which the horn still works. The horn actually works on +12 volts but sounds more intense. It might burn out if you laid on it too long.

If you stay with the flathead, the -6 volt starter will work on +12 volts, but might not last. There is an easy way to convert the existing starter to 12 volts by using the field coil part (the outside) of the starter from an FE series motor of the early 60's. The new starter donor should cost under $50.

[AnthonyG]

There are kits to reduce voltage to 6V with resistors to put on between incoming Voltage & gauges / heater blower motor etc... Also includes all the conversion 12V light bulbs in /on vehicle.

[Drbrown]

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Previous owner converted my '47. Summary: Coil/condensor changed; Rebuilt the starter; Substituted generator with 12v alternator; Put a Runtz volt reducer on each of the 3 dash gauges (no need to do amp gauge), Put ceramic volt reducer on heater motor; Changed all light bulbs to 12v. Kept horn relay and horns as-is based on fact they are rarely used. If you have directional signals change flasher to 12v. Have radio and elec clock (if any) modified by a professional.

[Art Newland]

This is great info, my new-to-me 49 F1 has been converted to 12 volts but the wiring is a lost cause and I'll need to start over.

[47Merc]

You could just put normal 2 inch Diameter 12 volt ones where the original gauges are like in the photo or get the whole set from Dakota


http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...od/prd1003.htm

[Ford Freak]

My '52 F1 has been converted to 12V . The heater motor switch gets very hot after a few minutes . Would a "ceramic voltage reducer" take care of that ?
If so , where could I purchase one ? Thanks in advance = F F

[TJ]

For the gauges use the reducer that is used for the gauges on a Mustang or other Fords into the 70's. It's a small unit that attaches to the dash and has two posts. One for the 12 volt source(ignition) and the other post to the gauges in series. Napa used to carry them or you should be able to get one from a vintage Mustang parts dealer. I recently used one from the back of a junk Mustang dash that I bought at a swap meet for $5.

[cas3]

ford freak, the ceramic reducer is a ballast reducer used for ignition in chrysler products for many years. 50's thru 70's and more. cheap, any parts store will have one

[rotorwrench]

I think I would contact Classic Instruments if I were looking for a basic rectangular faced instrument that would be near the right size & shape with 12-volt works. They use them in their retrofit set ups. They claim that can do custom stuff too but I haven't talked to them. http://shop.classicinstruments.com/retrofits

[estout81]

In reference to TJ's post, the NAPA # is IR1. That's what Ford used on '57 up thru at least the '80's. I also used this on my '48 F-1.

[rotorwrench]

Randy Rundle has the runtz wire wound dropping resistors for gauges on his fifth avenue internet garage site. I've heard some folks have had problems with the instrument voltage regulators but I don't know what all they were trying to power at the same time either. They may have been overloading them.

[TJ]

Originally Posted by rotorwrench

I think I would contact Classic Instruments if I were looking for a basic rectangular faced instrument that would be near the right size & shape with 12-volt works. They use them in their retrofit set ups. They claim that can do custom stuff too but I haven't talked to them. http://shop.classicinstruments.com/retrofits

They do custom stuff, but grab onto your wallet. I got a quote from them on a '40 dash insert(original style gauges but modern internals plus a speedo that looked like an original '40 but was electric) and I was quoted over $2000!

[rotorwrench]

There are a lot of parts on that insert but I don't know about 2 grand worth. The plain individual instruments outside the insert shouldn't be too expensive but you just never know now days. Replacement aircraft instruments are around 1 grand apiece after the aircraft manufacturer marks them up 1000% so I guess I shouldn't be surprised.

I've always known I was in the wrong business!

[Vintage Copper 47]

I did a recent conversion to my 47 sedan.. I only used a voltage reducer for the fuel gauge.. all the rest I did aftermarket.

WALT

[estout81]

TJ,
In '64 I built '40 Ford street rod and converted to 12V. I used the gauges and sending units from a ,56 Merc. They were the same as the '40 gauges. Looked stock. I know that would not be possible today but, check out some later Fords and see if the gauges will fit. Don't over look trucks. If you find gauges that fit then you just need the matching sending units.

[Art Newland]

There are lots of voltage converters on ebay.

[Art Newland]

Like these?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-DC-DC-Co...3D252482388190