Burlington Counterbalanced Crankshaft

[goodcar]

Does the Burlington crankshaft require additional machining if used with poured babbitt rod and main bearings. In other words is this a direct replacement for the stock Model A crankshaft??

[Tom Wesenberg]

Yes, if the babbit is standard size then the new standard crank should be good to go.

[Kohnke Rebabbitting]

Every Burlington crank we ever put in I had to have the rear main ground .050 wider, that is why we switched to Scats when they came out.

[PC/SR]

Be careful and measure everything, twice at least, and record it. As I have mentioned before, my Burlington journals were at the upper limit of factory specs, and my main and rod babbitt was at the lower limits to match the old crank. Everything was off by .002. I had new rods poured, and lapped in the mains with Timesaver. I guess you could lap in the rods too. Using extra shims does not solve the problem because the sides of the babbitt are a bit too thick to fully seat the Burlington.
Also the end play was also more because the length of the rear main journal was at the upper limit of factory specs. You might need the bronze rear bearing "seal" depending on your existing measurements.
That said, it was worth it, but it is probably not a bolt in deal.
As I re-read this, you could grind down the crank to fit your babbitt(if it does not fit now) but that opens up other things about the measurement and quality of the grind. Nor is this a knock on the Burlington, which is within factory specs, as advertised and I really like. If your rods and/or mains are undersized much more than the .002 or so, you will probably need the either grind the crank or get new babbitt poured to fit.

[wensum]

I have just had a Burlington fitted to my motor and can report that it fitted the standard size bearing shells perfectly.
However it was machined up just ahead of the rear flange and built up to take a two piece modern oil seal which when run up on a stand proved to be oil tight.
I wait installation to see if there are any improvements in smoothness.
It replaced an original crankshaft with welded on counterweights that had been found to be cracked.
Keith

[Tony Hillyard]

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

A related question, is it possible to fit shell bearings in a Model A? Has it been done? The whole hog... big ends and mains?

[CarlG]

Originally Posted by Tony Hillyard

A related question, is it possible to fit shell bearings in a Model A? Has it been done? The whole hog... big ends and mains?

My engine has inserted bearings. Quite a few engine builders will do that.

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by Tony Hillyard

A related question, is it possible to fit shell bearings in a Model A? Has it been done? The whole hog... big ends and mains?

Hey Tony,
Not only is it possible, but HAS been done for years/years.
My '32 B was done that way back in 2001 and runs perfect today, with full oil pressure and full oil filtering system and one piece rear modern seal that still does not leak a drop ! Thanks, Joe Sivils of Turlock.

[Synchro909]

Originally Posted by hardtimes

Hey Tony,
Not only is it possible, but HAS been done for years/years.
My '32 B was done that way back in 2001 and runs perfect today, with full oil pressure and full oil filtering system and one piece rear modern seal that still does not leak a drop ! Thanks, Joe Sivils of Turlock.

How he heck do you get one of those bloody things to not leak????
Mine leaks like you wouldn't believe and I'm NOT going to pull the engine AGAIN to fix it. At least this way, I have a trail to follow home.

[juke joint johnny]

Originally Posted by Tony Hillyard

A related question, is it possible to fit shell bearings in a Model A? Has it been done? The whole hog... big ends and mains?

Hi Tony

Belcher engineering in the UK do Shell Bearings in their Model A rebuilds now
.
I don't believe they do poured babbitt anymore.

John Cochran

[Tony Hillyard]

Hello John,

Very many thanks for that. I will look into it. It's not urgent by any means but just nice to know.

[BRENT in 10-uh-C]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

How he heck do you get one of those bloody things to not leak????
Mine leaks like you wouldn't believe and I'm NOT going to pull the engine AGAIN to fix it. At least this way, I have a trail to follow home.

The likely issue with leaking is someone probably did not follow directions from Terry. You MUST know how to set up the thrust clearance AND locate the crank fore/aft where there is pressure against the rubber. I too had a couple of failures many years ago. I learned this lesson the hard way too.

[hardtimes]

Originally Posted by Synchro909

How he heck do you get one of those bloody things to not leak????
Mine leaks like you wouldn't believe and I'm NOT going to pull the engine AGAIN to fix it. At least this way, I have a trail to follow home.

Hey Synchro,
CONCENTRICITY !
Extensive written instructions came with my Burtz rear one piece model B seal. I spoke to the machinist at length about the written instructions, before I gave him those written instructions. The centers of the rear main B crank seal area at 2.100(memory ?) MUST be concentric to the center of the seal and bearing areas. This is one thing that you do not want to the machinist to give scant attention to, and in both my Bs it works

Oh, and of course, the crank seal surface MUST be polished like a mirror. I'm talking B engine here, but suppose that A engine install similar except size ? Don't know, as I do not do A bottoms.