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Old 06-01-2015, 09:20 AM   #21
Patrick L.
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Default Re: Setting toe-in

Just another simple way to do this.
Check run-out of each front wheel, split the difference and face that forward.
Weight on wheels.
A good heavy curtain rod will work.
Place between front tires about 8 inches off floor.
Mark rod with masking tape
Roll vehicle forward just enough to keep curtain rod from contacting radius rod [ about 8 inches] and look at mark. Rear measurement/mark should be 1/16" more/greater than front.
Fast and easy.
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Old 06-01-2015, 09:25 AM   #22
eagle
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Default Re: Setting toe-in

Number one, as previously posted, check that the wheels don't wobble. If they do, take them off and set the toe in on the brake drum, if that checks out as no wobble. Also check for slop in the front end. If there is slop you won't get the toe in right. Then just loosen the tie rod, use a tape measure to check the toe in, and turn the tie rod one direction or the other to get it to whatever you desire. In my case I set it for 1/8" on the rim of the wheel and it drives very good. I used a straight edge on the rim to get around the frame.
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Old 06-01-2015, 10:13 AM   #23
zzlegend
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Default Re: Setting toe-in

Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick L. View Post
Just another simple way to do this.
Check run-out of each front wheel, split the difference and face that forward.
Weight on wheels.
A good heavy curtain rod will work.
Place between front tires about 8 inches off floor.
Mark rod with masking tape
Roll vehicle forward just enough to keep curtain rod from contacting radius rod [ about 8 inches] and look at mark. Rear measurement/mark should be 1/16" more/greater than front.
Fast and easy.
Exactly how I do mine. Checking for wheel run out is a must. I found a cloth sticky back tape measure that I adhered to the curtain rod.
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Old 06-01-2015, 09:21 PM   #24
barkleydave
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Default Re: Setting toe-in

Just did mine today. I had some uneven wear on fronts. I used a method mentioned in earlier posts. Very simple to do and pretty darn accurate.

Pin Method.

1. cut one or 2 6 inch blocks (for height above floor)
2. Board approx. 6 ft long.
3. Tape

Ok on each tire place a piece of tape 6 inches above floor on each tire.
Draw Horizontal line.
I used 2 pins stuck them in approx. center of tire.

Use 6 ft board with helper Put a line on one end and line up to pin. Mark the other line lining up to the other pin. Label F.

Roll car back so pins are at rear and 6 inches off of floor. Repeat measurement.

Take approx. 1/2 correction when in the rear.
Move forward and repeat taking 1/2 out each time. Mine was out 10/16th so it took a bunch of small adjustments and checks. Keep with it and you will bring it in.

I finally got toe- in within spec.

Takes two people to get it done...... but after the adjustment it handled and tracked much better on marginal roads with high crowns pot holes etc.

1/16th +/- 1/32.

My wear was on the inside and I expected it to have too much toe-out in fact it was the opposite. It was interesting my speeds increased with less effort.

Miles will tell the tale but I like the way it rolls.

Last edited by barkleydave; 06-01-2015 at 09:32 PM.
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Old 06-01-2015, 09:36 PM   #25
cw253748
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Default Re: Setting toe-in

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike V. Florida View Post
I'm assuming you measure 6" up and I would think you would want 1/32" each side from square for a total of 1/16"

\---/

Seems like your method would give you;

|--/

With the steering box centered, am I understanding your procedure incorrectly?
Mike V. Florida, toe will always equal it's self out. So setting one wheel at 1/16 and the other at zero will give you 1/32 at each wheel. you will end up with this \---/ not this |---/ plus my string was right below the running boards. My car drives fine with good tire wear and no darting. But I plan on checking my alignment on a Hunter alignment rack to see how close I was.
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Old 06-01-2015, 09:46 PM   #26
Bob C
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Default Re: Setting toe-in

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Quote:
Originally Posted by barkleydave View Post
Just did mine today. I had some uneven wear on fronts. I used a method mentioned in earlier posts. Very simple to do and pretty darn accurate.

Pin Method.

1. cut one or 2 6 inch blocks (for height above floor)
2. Board approx. 6 ft long.
3. Tape

Ok on each tire place a piece of tape 6 inches above floor on each tire.
Draw Horizontal line.
I used 2 pins stuck them in approx. center of tire.

Use 6 ft board with helper Put a line on one end and line up to pin. Mark the other line lining up to the other pin. Label F.

Roll car back so pins are at rear and 6 inches off of floor. Repeat measurement.

Take approx. 1/2 correction when in the rear.
Move forward and repeat taking 1/2 out each time. Mine was out 10/16th so it took a bunch of small adjustments and checks. Keep with it and you will bring it in.

I finally got toe- in within spec.

Takes two people to get it done...... but after the adjustment it handled and tracked much better on marginal roads with high crowns pot holes etc.

1/16th +/- 1/32.

My wear was on the inside and I expected it to have too much toe-out in fact it was the opposite. It was interesting my speeds increased with less effort.

Miles will tell the tale but I like the way it rolls.
You need to roll the car forward to get an accurate measurement.

Bob
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