The Ford Barn

Chewie46 · 06-27-2010, 05:43 PM

I'm removing the small block Chevy & P/G from my 28 Sport Coupe, and replacing it with a Chevy II L4 and a T5 5 speed. Is anyone familiar with this combination, and if so, are there any tips? I'm going to use a S10 trans NWC, hydraulic clutch, not sure about the rest. Thanks.

Fred A · 06-27-2010, 06:21 PM

I don't even know the difference between the four cylinder offerings beyond the Tempest that I no longer own, but a friend in the A club wants pictures of any that I run accross at various meets and is looking for ideas. When he asked for information about his idea on the former Model A site, was shuffled off to rodding related sites where his inquiry fell as flat. Seems like an interesting idea where higher performance is not the main goal, but a reliable power source for a 70 MPH crusing A. None of you old boys try to tell me about the 50 MPH slow pokes and their 1927 born brakes cause I'ved been there and know better about pushing the old A too hard. The HAMB might also be able to find an "iron maiden" user or whatever that can offer some advice beyond not doing it. As quirkey as the HAMB guys might be, they are not wild eyed preservationists.

What a right of passage it was when I first cut a wonderfully straight, rust free Model A frame to give it a 3" step and grinding the rivets for the removal of the running boards. Up to that moment, there was a road to return to stock, but my roadster is now fated to a return to the street as what might be called a rod. Next is the filling of body holes that mounted the old tube radio on the firewall and and the unwanted cowl lights. Done right some poor soul will be thinking I hacked up an original '31 Standard especially after a correct paint job complete with apple green stripe is tastefully patina treated. Formerly one of the best original bodies seen by me 35 years ago, now on its way back to '40s cool with all the right pieces, minus the unwanted rumble seat. Having Fun: Fred A

Paul's Garage · 06-27-2010, 06:40 PM

I also have a 57 Chevy and belong to a chevy forum. I think they would be glad to help you. Try Trifives.com and ask your question under modified cars. Hope this helps.

Paul's Garage · 06-27-2010, 06:43 PM

I also have a 57 Chevy and belong to another forum. This would be a easy one for them, please try trifive.com under modified cars. Hope this works.

Paul's Garage · 06-27-2010, 06:46 PM

I also have a 57 Chevy and belong to other forums. I think this engine swap would be any easy one for them please try trifive.com and ask under the modified cars post.

allen · 06-27-2010, 07:04 PM

Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements)

man this is Greek to me, although i did once remove a Chevy motor from a ford and kinda of like it,

Chris in WNC · 06-27-2010, 08:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fred A

I don't even know the difference between the four cylinder offerings beyond the Tempest that I no longer own, but a friend in the A club wants pictures of any that I run accross at various meets and is looking for ideas. When he asked for information about his idea on the former Model A site, was shuffled off to rodding related sites where his inquiry fell as flat. Seems like an interesting idea where higher performance is not the main goal, but a reliable power source for a 70 MPH crusing A. None of you old boys try to tell me about the 50 MPH slow pokes and their 1927 born brakes cause I'ved been there and know better about pushing the old A too hard. The HAMB might also be able to find an "iron maiden" user or whatever that can offer some advice beyond not doing it. As quirkey as the HAMB guys might be, they are not wild eyed preservationists.

What a right of passage it was when I first cut a wonderfully straight, rust free Model A frame to give it a 3" step and grinding the rivets for the removal of the running boards. Up to that moment, there was a road to return to stock, but my roadster is now fated to a return to the street as what might be called a rod. Next is the filling of body holes that mounted the old tube radio on the firewall and and the unwanted cowl lights. Done right some poor soul will be thinking I hacked up an original '31 Standard especially after a correct paint job complete with apple green stripe is tastefully patina treated. Formerly one of the best original bodies seen by me 35 years ago, now on its way back to '40s cool with all the right pieces, minus the unwanted rumble seat. Having Fun: Fred A

Fred, I'm mostly a by-the-judging standards guy, but when I hear of a project like yours it piques my interest. I have frequent impure urges to remove the fenders and running boards from our Coupe and drive it around a few years that way.

tell me more about "patina treating" a paint job. our recently acquired Town Sedan is awful shiny and could use some of that.

Fred A · 06-28-2010, 03:19 PM

Chewie 46 got me off on a tangent, but.. stripping down a an old Ford was pretty popular through the service life of our beloved cars. Since I was born during WWII with a car crazed veteran father, we tracked through some glory years of the old Fords. From that perspective, the way that the cars came from factory was getting to be some pretty old news and how they were modified to enjoy the changes in road and social conditions now amuses me a bit more. Also, the original trim materials and rubber parts perish making authentic restoration a tough way to go. Ford coupes as a hot rod were more of a fifties thing and the fenders were likely to be left intact. Since the police are less likely to ticket gray haired drivers of old iron, and that they failed the public relations test against noisey pipes, we get to drive the car that would have been big trouble years ago. I personally prefer the early Fours dressed up with the era correct speed parts, although the little 60 fascinates me but was not ever popular on the street.

Still among those looking for information for my friend interested in the GM fours for his Models A. Thanks: Fred A

Fred A · 06-28-2010, 03:28 PM

I worked in the Motion Picture Industry for 43 years and watched our painters add the look of experience to the sets. They know the tricks to do it artfully. I still see those guys and we talk about how to give cars the right look. Even the car magazines touch on the subject. I have a '47 coupe that I won't paint even though the finish is a mess. Good Luck: Fred A

Chewie46 · 06-28-2010, 05:35 PM

Glad to see I generated so much discussion, but I'm still no closer to figuring out which parts I need. Anyway, I'll get it done, thanks.

d.j. moordigian · 06-28-2010, 05:57 PM

Chewie46....that chevy 2 cam in 2 sizes 153 an 181, nice engine with no real problems.
I built them for race cars, they have the same bolt pattern as a V/8, (bell housing).
Dudley

Richard in Anaheim CA · 06-28-2010, 08:13 PM

Chewie46,

A friend is looking ito this right now and I was amazed to find you can buy new crate engines from "Mercruiser".

They come complete with alternator, starter, distributor and pan but no manifolds.
They are the 183 inch model brand new and have a really nice appearance with aluminum side cover and valve cover. They have about 120 HP or so and cost about $2500. That is in the same range as a good rebuild of an 80 year oild Model A engine.

You can bolt on a T5, automatic, OD automatic, etc right up.

it's starting to look interesting.

Richard
Anaheim CA

Chewie46 · 06-28-2010, 08:59 PM

Thanks for the info Dudley. Mine is a 181 Mercruiser motor Clay Smith cam, balanced, just a sweet motor. Which bellhousing should use if I want to run a hydraulic clutch?

Pete · 06-28-2010, 10:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chewie46

Thanks for the info Dudley. Mine is a 181 Mercruiser motor Clay Smith cam, balanced, just a sweet motor. Which bellhousing should use if I want to run a hydraulic clutch?

It doesn't matter too much if you are talking about an external slave cylinder type..You can fabricate almost anything to hook it up.
If you are talking about a hydraulic throwout bearing type the manufacturer will recommend the right one.
They both work fine.

sonny30coupe · 06-28-2010, 10:30 PM

Chewie, you need to bolt on a new thermalgockle, then it will all fit......

Ice man · 06-29-2010, 08:29 AM

While I was waiting for my B Crank to GET DONE, I was given a 2001 Jeep 2.5 4 banger /5 speed. I had a old 65 Chevy Van Ft and Rear and the rest is history. Runs strong, easy on gas, and it can run at 10 mph or 70 Mph, and the hydraulic brakes are a dream. I'm not a purest, but love 29s. Iceman

d.j. moordigian · 06-29-2010, 09:40 AM

sonny30coupe.... I say that Ronald Regan movie, you must be OLD.

29ModelA · 06-29-2010, 11:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Richard in Anaheim CA

Chewie46,

A friend is looking ito this right now and I was amazed to find you can buy new crate engines from "Mercruiser".

They come complete with alternator, starter, distributor and pan but no manifolds.
They are the 183 inch model brand new and have a really nice appearance with aluminum side cover and valve cover. They have about 120 HP or so and cost about $2500. That is in the same range as a good rebuild of an 80 year oild Model A engine.

You can bolt on a T5, automatic, OD automatic, etc right up.

it's starting to look interesting.

Richard
Anaheim CA

Usually marine grind cams, and they can hold higher RPM for hours. I believe Brass coolant plugs are also used.

Keith True · 06-29-2010, 12:16 PM

I don't know if the new ones are emission controlled or not.The old one are nice,no emissions,simple carb,the hardest part is drilling the block to hold a starter.The marine engine uses a starter that bolts up just like a Model A,and the automotive version uses a starter that bolts straight up,same as the V8's.The marine version is not drilled.There is a water manifold that is in place of the water pump,but the water pump will bolt on there with a small modification.The side bosses on the engine are not drilled for motor mounts either,but the bosses are there so that can be dealt with.You also have to come up with some kind of header,the car manifold won't fit.It will bolt up,but does not cover the ports.At least that is what I found on the old ones I have (1967,69)

06-27-2010, 05:43 PM	#1
Chewie46 Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Las Vegas NV Posts: 6	Here's one for ya! I'm removing the small block Chevy & P/G from my 28 Sport Coupe, and replacing it with a Chevy II L4 and a T5 5 speed. Is anyone familiar with this combination, and if so, are there any tips? I'm going to use a S10 trans NWC, hydraulic clutch, not sure about the rest. Thanks.

06-27-2010, 06:21 PM	#2
Fred A Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Encino California, near Burbank Posts: 935	GM Four in Model A? I don't even know the difference between the four cylinder offerings beyond the Tempest that I no longer own, but a friend in the A club wants pictures of any that I run accross at various meets and is looking for ideas. When he asked for information about his idea on the former Model A site, was shuffled off to rodding related sites where his inquiry fell as flat. Seems like an interesting idea where higher performance is not the main goal, but a reliable power source for a 70 MPH crusing A. None of you old boys try to tell me about the 50 MPH slow pokes and their 1927 born brakes cause I'ved been there and know better about pushing the old A too hard. The HAMB might also be able to find an "iron maiden" user or whatever that can offer some advice beyond not doing it. As quirkey as the HAMB guys might be, they are not wild eyed preservationists. What a right of passage it was when I first cut a wonderfully straight, rust free Model A frame to give it a 3" step and grinding the rivets for the removal of the running boards. Up to that moment, there was a road to return to stock, but my roadster is now fated to a return to the street as what might be called a rod. Next is the filling of body holes that mounted the old tube radio on the firewall and and the unwanted cowl lights. Done right some poor soul will be thinking I hacked up an original '31 Standard especially after a correct paint job complete with apple green stripe is tastefully patina treated. Formerly one of the best original bodies seen by me 35 years ago, now on its way back to '40s cool with all the right pieces, minus the unwanted rumble seat. Having Fun: Fred A

06-27-2010, 06:40 PM	#3
Paul's Garage Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 72	Re: Here's one for ya! I also have a 57 Chevy and belong to a chevy forum. I think they would be glad to help you. Try Trifives.com and ask your question under modified cars. Hope this helps.

06-27-2010, 06:43 PM	#4
Paul's Garage Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 72	Re: Here's one for ya! I also have a 57 Chevy and belong to another forum. This would be a easy one for them, please try trifive.com under modified cars. Hope this works.

06-27-2010, 06:46 PM	#5
Paul's Garage Member Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 72	Re: Here's one for ya! I also have a 57 Chevy and belong to other forums. I think this engine swap would be any easy one for them please try trifive.com and ask under the modified cars post.

06-27-2010, 07:04 PM	#6
allen Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: petal mississippi Posts: 550	Re: Here's one for ya! Sponsored Links (Register now to hide all advertisements) man this is Greek to me, although i did once remove a Chevy motor from a ford and kinda of like it,

06-28-2010, 03:19 PM	#8
Fred A Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Encino California, near Burbank Posts: 935	Era Correct Modified? Chewie 46 got me off on a tangent, but.. stripping down a an old Ford was pretty popular through the service life of our beloved cars. Since I was born during WWII with a car crazed veteran father, we tracked through some glory years of the old Fords. From that perspective, the way that the cars came from factory was getting to be some pretty old news and how they were modified to enjoy the changes in road and social conditions now amuses me a bit more. Also, the original trim materials and rubber parts perish making authentic restoration a tough way to go. Ford coupes as a hot rod were more of a fifties thing and the fenders were likely to be left intact. Since the police are less likely to ticket gray haired drivers of old iron, and that they failed the public relations test against noisey pipes, we get to drive the car that would have been big trouble years ago. I personally prefer the early Fours dressed up with the era correct speed parts, although the little 60 fascinates me but was not ever popular on the street. Still among those looking for information for my friend interested in the GM fours for his Models A. Thanks: Fred A

06-28-2010, 03:28 PM	#9
Fred A Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Encino California, near Burbank Posts: 935	Patina I worked in the Motion Picture Industry for 43 years and watched our painters add the look of experience to the sets. They know the tricks to do it artfully. I still see those guys and we talk about how to give cars the right look. Even the car magazines touch on the subject. I have a '47 coupe that I won't paint even though the finish is a mess. Good Luck: Fred A

06-28-2010, 05:35 PM	#10
Chewie46 Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Las Vegas NV Posts: 6	Re: Here's one for ya! Glad to see I generated so much discussion, but I'm still no closer to figuring out which parts I need. Anyway, I'll get it done, thanks.

06-28-2010, 05:57 PM	#11
d.j. moordigian Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Fresno, Ca. Posts: 3,636	Re: Here's one for ya! Chewie46....that chevy 2 cam in 2 sizes 153 an 181, nice engine with no real problems. I built them for race cars, they have the same bolt pattern as a V/8, (bell housing). Dudley

06-28-2010, 08:13 PM	#12
Richard in Anaheim CA Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Anaheim California Posts: 551	Re: Here's one for ya! Chewie46, A friend is looking ito this right now and I was amazed to find you can buy new crate engines from "Mercruiser". They come complete with alternator, starter, distributor and pan but no manifolds. They are the 183 inch model brand new and have a really nice appearance with aluminum side cover and valve cover. They have about 120 HP or so and cost about $2500. That is in the same range as a good rebuild of an 80 year oild Model A engine. You can bolt on a T5, automatic, OD automatic, etc right up. it's starting to look interesting. Richard Anaheim CA

06-28-2010, 08:59 PM	#13
Chewie46 Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Las Vegas NV Posts: 6	Re: Here's one for ya! Thanks for the info Dudley. Mine is a 181 Mercruiser motor Clay Smith cam, balanced, just a sweet motor. Which bellhousing should use if I want to run a hydraulic clutch?

06-28-2010, 10:30 PM	#15
sonny30coupe Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Kansas City KS Posts: 255	Re: Here's one for ya! Chewie, you need to bolt on a new thermalgockle, then it will all fit......

06-29-2010, 08:29 AM	#16
Ice man Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Southern Pines, N.Carolina Posts: 210	Re: Here's one for ya! While I was waiting for my B Crank to GET DONE, I was given a 2001 Jeep 2.5 4 banger /5 speed. I had a old 65 Chevy Van Ft and Rear and the rest is history. Runs strong, easy on gas, and it can run at 10 mph or 70 Mph, and the hydraulic brakes are a dream. I'm not a purest, but love 29s. Iceman

06-29-2010, 09:40 AM	#17
d.j. moordigian Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Fresno, Ca. Posts: 3,636	Re: Here's one for ya! sonny30coupe.... I say that Ronald Regan movie, you must be OLD.

06-29-2010, 12:16 PM	#19
Keith True Senior Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Epping N.H. Posts: 2,999	Re: Here's one for ya! I don't know if the new ones are emission controlled or not.The old one are nice,no emissions,simple carb,the hardest part is drilling the block to hold a starter.The marine engine uses a starter that bolts up just like a Model A,and the automotive version uses a starter that bolts straight up,same as the V8's.The marine version is not drilled.There is a water manifold that is in place of the water pump,but the water pump will bolt on there with a small modification.The side bosses on the engine are not drilled for motor mounts either,but the bosses are there so that can be dealt with.You also have to come up with some kind of header,the car manifold won't fit.It will bolt up,but does not cover the ports.At least that is what I found on the old ones I have (1967,69)